348 help with a few issue (CEL code and hunting idle)

Here you go; interesting read.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/stabilant-22.227960/

Think you have some cleaning to do!

And a valuable lesson learnt…if it ain’t broke….!!!!

Keep us posted on how you go.

 

I used to stabilant everywhere and I mean everywhere.

My car used to have that weird idle hunt when I started it when it was cold and as it warmed up it settled down.

I'd replace the cam position sensor to start with and 02 sensors. Also if balance the intakes. It's in the wsm.

Lambda one is tough, it could be fpr, injectors, fuel pumps, coils, igniters etc.

Personally I think it's bad MAF's. That was my issue after replacing everything else. I happened to have 2 new ones.

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Strange symptoms. All these codes on both banks. I can’t think of any single fault that would cause this other than perhaps an electrical fault (including misuse of Stabilant). Things common to both banks such as bad fuel or vacuum issues are not going to cause MAF codes.

Referring to the MAFs, when you said you cleaned “it”, did you mean to say cleaned “them”?

Regarding electrics, it would have to be something major, such as battery/alternator or ignition to affect the sensors on both banks.

Can the 348 ECUs generate codes for low/intermittent voltages?

 

Has the battery been run flat or disconnected lately?

Clear the stored codes.

Maybe you just need to "re-initialize" the system. Easy. No cost. Numerous posts here.

Hope it's simple!

 

Pardon the question. You say you "have" the following codes on both banks. You didn't say you "had" the codes. If the system is re-initialized properly, the codes should be temporarily erased from the boxes (no codes showing) unless the same fault symptoms exist after the engine is restarted and warmed up. Just disconnecting the battery doesn't do it. It's supposed to remain disconnected for something like 10 minutes (it's been a long time since I went through this) before the stored codes are erased. Just want to make sure the easy possibility is covered first. If your battery has been left disconnected for the proper length of time, and the faults are still present, then move on.

 

You have to read through all the ECU codes first and get to the end in order to clear them.

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Those codes are not telling you anything other than your engine is missing and the cat is getting hot. Please refer to my thread on FPR's because you are describing exactly my issue that we recently cured. Chances are one or both of your fuel pressure regulators are failing and excess fuel is being delivered to either Cylinder No. 1 or 5. Your MAFs are probably just fine. Do check to make sure that their resistance is at spec - see thread on this easy check. Stabillant is not going to cause your issues nor cure them, however, it can't hurt. Get a timing light and check which of your cylinders is missing at idle. My guess it is going to be 1 or 5 because that is where the FPRs dump excess fuel from the fuel rail. They are being flooded and consequently misfire. You should notice that the engine seems to run better at high rpm, over 3000. Youi should pull the spark plug from 1 and 5 to verify its condition. If it is black and sooty, bingo. I am pretty sure you are suffering from the same situation I was in for the past 7 months.

 

Unless there is a loose banjo fitting on the fuel pump supply line in the tank. I had that. Diagnoses exactly like stuck fpr.. Ugh.

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Difficult to restart when hot can be voith grease issue. Its not related to why it does however. Try balancing the intakes per the manual. People monkey with those screws over time.

 

If I’m reading this right you cleaned out most if not all of the “stab-22” and the CEL stop coming on ??????

I can see if to much is used crossover voltage can probably happen do to it’s capability of making a better electrical connection but I never see that before but then again most do not use a lot because of how expensive it is lol

And I agree with the other post a lot of guys play with the balancing of the intake so that would not be a bad idea to look at and see if someone had the ECU’s flashed not to see the CAT’s ECM’s just removing should put the CEL on all the time —- I seen a car where the (aka tuner) change setting so that the CEL will not come on at all (he use HP tuner program) and the car was driving so bad and the owner had the engine overhauled for no reason thinking something was wrong after sending his ECM’s out to the guys in Florida (I can’t remember the name of the place I think it’s euro specialist) to find out the tuner did what he did lol





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Ahhh yes, the old Dave Helm's gold connector kit nonsense.

I ripped all of those out of my car and re-pinned it ala @ernie stooge style 9 years ago. Lots of problems disappeared.

But that whole episode between Dave and Ernie was pretty major goings on back in the day.

Deoxit D5, 100L and a tooth brush can cover a lot of ground as well.

 

That was crazy of a toss up. Let's not do that again.

 

Deoxit really helps clean up for certain.