612 fuel tank removal help needed.

I'm attempting to remove my fuel tank to replace a leaking cracked pump. I have a repair manual but it does not have the photos to go with it.

How does one remove the straps that hold the tank in place? The manual says to loosen the bolts holding the straps (Makes sense) but they appear to be on the back side of the tank. If this is so, how do you gain access?

If someone has the shop manual with the photos, I'd appreciate a post of that too.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Peter,

probably like the 550. Take both rear tire off access panel around the rear part of upper a arm. Behind panel is front part of the strap held by a nut. That will free the strap. Ferrari too dumb to change how they do thing much. I have never seen the 612 but I’m probably right

 

"Unscrew the tensioing nuts (13) for the two tank retaining belts"

Looks like you need to go from underneath the car.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

That's the photo I was missing. My manual said to remove the nuts but I had no photo to go with it. Now I se why it said to remove the under panel.

 

OK, well the straps are lose and out Of the way. My manual lists the steps but no photos (disconnect power, fuel lines, fill pipe, etc) with the last step being the straps. The straps are lose and the tank still seems to be in there tight. Anything I'm missing? I don't want to pry on it and damage the tank. As these fuel pumps seem to be a weak spot, Im assuming that several of you have had the pleasure of removing one.

 

Yes, removing the straps is easy once we find the nuts near the wheel well. We lost some time looking for it also...

The tank is EXTREMELY tight in there. Its important it is almost empty (no petrol) since there is little space to pull it out. Important to protect the carpet and also the tank paint because it is really a close space, and you will probably have some petrol residues near around the pump covers.

I advise you to change both pumps (the newer versions have darker caramel plastic color / the old ones were clear white plastic color) since it a matter of time until both pumps start leaking!

My dealer convince me to change only the pump which started leaking... and half a year later the same happened to the other one.

 

I bought both pumps to replace. Now I just have to be able to move the tank.

 

Seriously, is there some trick to pulling the tank out? Everything is removed as far as I can tell but the tank does now really move. I can pry it up and down slightly (maybe 1mm) but that's about it. No movement forward, or actually back. Its like there is something else holding it in. I have maybe 2 gallons of fuel in the tank if even that, so its no more than 12 lbs of extra weight.

Do you just grab the sides and try to pull it? I'm getting nowhere.

 

The tank is kept in place by the straps (which you already replaced) plus a flange all around the bottom (covered by a rubber pad). Mine was quite difficult to move after all these years in place sitting on the rubber pad, but eventually we made it happen. I believe we started lifting it with a lever from the left side to the right side. Once it is freed from the flange on the bottom, you should slide it out. Space is very small.

I have a small video, but I don't think I can post it here, hence I posted some screen shots. Sorry for the low quality. On the pics, you can see the rubber padding, the flange all around the tank area, the pipe for the feeler and the tank (on the left). Having the tank on that position will give you enough clearance to change the pumps.

Don't forget to disconnect the feed line to the tank - from the petrol filler, and protecting the area before starting the work. There should be some residual petrol on the top of the tank...

Hope this helps.

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

@TrojanFan,

In the end were you able to get the pumps replaced on your own? Where did you order the parts from?

Im having the same issue and I think I may just take it to the shop if its a pain in the ass, which it looks like it is.

Kevin

 

I ordered the pumps from Superformance in the UK. Best price I could find.

The actual disconnect part isn't that difficult. Its trying to move the tank. I'm still struggling with it. No good place to grab and pull and it seems like over the years it has settled into the padding.

 

Still have not been able to move the tank. Everything is disconnected per the manual. I an carefully pry it up and down about 2mm on either side prying from the tank strap brace (I don't want to pry anywhere else for fear of puncturing the tank.

The thing wont budge. Any suggestions on how to grab/pull it? There really isn't any edge or anything to get a good grip on to pull it out. Just the flat ends.

Up to this point I have taken a very leisurely approach to working on this but now Ive reached a point where I need to get it done. The 612 blocks my 355 which I need for an event in 2 weeks.

 

Can you get a strap behind the tank?

Failing that, can you epoxy bond some “handles” onto the exposed side of the tank?


Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat

 

Hi Peter,

Please refer to my prior message. If you look closely at my pics, you will notice the silver paint from the tank. Time and chemicals (even maybe a bit of leaked fuel) had "glued" the tank to the pad. It's difficult, but had to be done.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Peter

Will you be going to Monterey for car week?

 

No Todd, Not this year. Just back from vacation and have to catch up on too much.

 

ah bummer.

 

This is proving to be the most difficult Ferrari job I have attempted. More than the timing belt and water pump change out on the 612.

Everything is disconnected. I can slide a sheet of paper under the bottom of the tank and can pry it up and down a few mm but it does not want to slide back. Really no way to get a good hold on it to get any leverage. Moving side to side does nothing nor does up and down.

 

Ok, was able to get the tank out. It took maybe 2 hours of jiggling it up and down o n each side with a crow bar and sliding a hack saw between pads and the tank to break the seals.

Now to change out the pumps. Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Now that the tank moved, pumps and new gaskets were a a breeze. Replaced both in about 20 minutes. Putting tank back in tomorrow and hooking it all back up.

 

Starts, runs, no fuel leaks and gauge Works. Time to button it back up. What a pain of a job, mainly due to the tank removal issue. If I have to do it again sometime (hopefully not with both pumps replaced), it would probably take me 1/3 the time. The learning curve is a *****.

 

Hello Gents, I just moved my 612's fuel tank back and I thought I would let you know how I did it.



As others have said, it's a very difficult job if you haven't done it before. But I learned a few tricks that may make it easier for the next guy who wants to tackle the job. I closely followed the factory workshop manual procedures, but it is vague and missing key details in many areas.

Two aspects of this job are pretty difficult: Disconnecting the filler-neck tube and then physically moving the tank rearward. Everything else is more or less "typical Ferrari" levels of difficulty.

The left/rear wheel well has several removable panels that give you access to the fuel and EVAP lines, and the filler neck tube.



I found that removing the charcoal canister gave me a better working angle towards the filler neck. I released the filler neck tube by grabbing it with these nylon radiator-hose pliers

https://www.harborfreight.com/line-clamp-set-3-piece-63596.html

and twisting, turning and pulling until it finally came free. You have minimal room to work and lots of force is required. Eventually I was able to get it free.

The fuel tank is made of aluminum and is really lightweight. Removing as much fuel as possible will make the job easier. It should be almost completely empty. I siphoned the fuel by removing the rollover/vent valve. It is help in place by a 1/4 turn cam and is easily removable. You have direct access to the fuel from there and it's easily reachable from the trunk.




The other hard part of this job is that the fuel tank sits on four insulating foam pads. Additional foam pads secure the left and right sides of the tank. Over the years, the tank becomes stuck to these pads, almost as if it is glued-down. The tight space means that you have no good place to get a good grip on the tank, so lifting, pulling, or rocking the tank by hand (to release the stuck pads) is nearly impossible. And the tank is thin aluminum and fragile, so you really don't want to pry too hard with hand tools. My solution was to use this aluminum auto body filler mixing board

https://www.harborfreight.com/mixing-board-98967.html

to force a separation between the aluminum tank and the bottom and side foam pads. I used a flay pry bar, placed under the tank restraining strap reinforcement bracket to gently lift the tank up so that I could slide the aluminum plate between the tank and the foam pads, pushing the plate as far forward as I could get it to go. This worked perfectly. After the four bottom foam pads and the two side foam pads were released in this fashion, the tank was free and can very easily be slid back. I placed these nylon trim-removal tools

https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-and-molding-tool-set-5-piece-64126.html

between the tank and the foam pads to assist the rearward movement of the tank. I protected the trunk area with pieces of cardboard while I was moving the tank so as not to scratch the paint or cause other damage. Now I have easy access to both fuel pumps. They are the originals and I'll be replacing them with the updated "yellow top" pumps. I hope this helps anybody who wants to tackle this job. EVERY 612 is going to need it someday!

 

Right/rear access
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Fuel siphoning
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Special tools

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login