Is Boiled Brake Fluid Still Good?

Flush it out, everytime it boils it becomes less useful (and will boil quicker each time)

I recommend you using Motul 600 (DOT4) (not Motul 660), tip: sometimes you can find it at motorcycle shops easier than automotive

whatever you use, make sure it is DOT4, do not use DOT3 as it does not have the performance characteristics track driving requires

And when you flush, push out all the old, whatever the capacity is of your brake system, get about a half liter more and keep pushing it all the way through.

also, if you have rubber brake lines leading up to the calipers, and if you do not know their age, replace them, and, if you can, use stainless (braided or not) lines, they will reduce the amount of moisture entering the fluid (if you replace the lines, do it before the flush)

 

The only part that boils is close to caliper. That’s not a lot of volume. Bleed, add fluid, done. System flush on an interval that suits you.

 

Just bleed them.

Matt

 

Bleed the brakes each corner starting farthest away from the master cylinder. Blead each caliper until you do not see bubbles. Since you boiled the fluid you will most likely end up doing a complete flush to really get all the air out.

Brake fluid is cheap compared to not having brakes and wrecking your car and possibly another car and hurting people lives...FLUSH THE BRAKES.

 

If someone offered you $100 to drive at 120mph down a straight and brake hard into turn 1 with a 70% chance your brakes would work, 60% chance a few laps later, 50% chance a few laps later, etc... would you do it?

I'd replace the brake fluid if it was me. I've used Motul RBF-600 with good success on non-exotic cars that required DOT4.

All the best,
Andrew.

 

When did Ferrari change its recommendation against synthetic (DOT 4) brake fluid?

 

Why Motul 600 instead of 660?


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Motul 600 absorbs water less readily than 660, and therefore is a better choice for vehicles that are only occasionally used at the track. Provided you don't boil your brake fluid, you should get a year out of 600 fluid. 660 has a higher boiling point, but attracts and holds water more readily, and therefore needs more frequent changes.

 

Dot 5.1

 

No these cars must use Dot 4

 

For what reason?

 

How do you know if the brake fluid boils? When the pedal mushes to the floor?


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Exactly that: pedal mushes to the floor and basically can't be "pumped back up" . It's not the only thing that can cause the pedal to "mush" -- overheated pads (brake fade) will cause the pedal to go to have longer travel and not slow the car.

Most likely you'll experience pad overheating first, but you never know. with older / wetter fluid.

 

If pads overheat, can you simply let them cool down and give them a rest and keep using them as long as there is enough thickness left?

Or if they overheat, is that it and then they need to be replaced?


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Pads mostly will be okay post-overheating, but that's not a guarantee. It's always worth taking a look if you've overheated them, as they can be cracked or glazed. Glazed pads (and rotors, since there is usually some glazing on them) won't be effective stopping the car - basically the surface of the pad has become smooth, causing the pad to lose its "bite". You'll know a glazed pad pretty quickly, as the brakes just won't work very well.

Glazed pads can be saved, but it's worth checking them & the rotors out before you ask much of the car on track or on the streets.

 

Thank you very much. Your knowledge and contributions are very much appreciated!


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My pleasure. Most important: have fun on the track!