Torx bolts removal

I would be very careful using one of those as I have seen the torx heads strip out.

Your call my friend.

 

Take a punch that will fit inside the torx bolt down to the bottom, and give each bolt a good shock with a hammer. The I use a handheld impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer), not an air power impact to loosed the torx bolt. If the clearance between the bit and bolt gets too loose, you can hit the head of the bolt with a punch and hammer to drive some metal back into the grip area, then hammer the torx bit into the bolt for a tight fit.

If someone used a Loctite thread locker product on the bolt in the past, some heat from a torch may be needed to kill the Loctite, in order to loosen the bolt.

Brian Brown
Patrick Ottis Co.

 

be sure to clean the opening. same as with a hex head. i use a pick to get to the bottom. that way the torx tool can fully engage.

 

Whatever you do, don't use cheap TORX. I have a lot of Craftsman and even a few tools from Harbor Frieght but I'd spend the money on Snap-on for TORX.

 

Yes, this is one of those times, that Snap-On, is well worth the money.

 

You are correct that this is not a regular torx head. I have a very old driver that looks like the image in the Snap On Catalog that I use but the number on the tool I have (S60 IIRC) was NLA. I hope that this is the same tool. I will have to check this out.

 

don't worry about it. Just use any torx that will fit and blast it outta there with impact wrench or whatever. Worst case you can tack weld onto the torx head and remove them with something more conventional. Then you can buy high grade hex head fasteners and never have the torx issue again.

 

Matco, Proto, Mac are equivalent to Snap-On (if not Chinese junk).
Forget Craftsman. Sears sold out long ago.

 

Just put it back together like you take it apart and you will be fine. Note the white paint mark on the edge of the flywheel that designates the heavy side. Sometimes these get washed away.

 

+1!!!

 

Old thread but God forbid you're reading it (like I did) the flywheel bolts are NOT TORX and they are NOT TORX PLUS. They are RIBE 8M. If you magnify the bolt with a good loop they are marked. Unless you're okay with welding caps on them to get them out after you ruin them, buy a good RIBE M8 socket. Good Luck!
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

+1 RIBE bit...

 

RIBE is the German manufacturer. It is more commonly known as POLYDRIVE®

 

Typical of FChat. Telling you how to do something with the wrong tools.

Thanks Ferrarni and JRC. So rare this kind of crap gets corrected. Much appreciated.

 

JCR, I'm new around here, I'm here to learn and share. I sincerely and respectfully apologize to you in advance for completely disagreeing with you.

Polydrive IS NOT the same width, even though "SOME" sell as the same (Amazon for example).

*get out a micrometer!

* Read FEATURES on Snap On site. (let me get that for you) "• Ribe® profile is similar, but not identical, to polydrive or TORX®" < we do believe Snap On, right?

*read the feedback on Amazon. > "They are slightly smaller".

Every time I see a Polydrive socket, the next word is either VW or Audi and it's "usually" the VW (CORRECT) head bolt tool. (Google it) There is a cheapo set on Amazon that calls them by both names. I wouldn't touch them to my ratchet. In addition to being crap, (13pieces for $28.00 delivered, on par with Sunex throw away tools...)

POLYDRIVE WILL FIT SLOPPY @ BEST, DON'T DO IT!

if you want to join a strip club that's your call, but it's an expensive flywheel and a 2 minute job that can turn into a nightmare.

Official Member of the Snap On Ribe Tribe. ~ 8 MM Ribe. Part # F8RBE

 

I patently disagree. They are not the same size or shape. Polydrive will be smaller, sloppy and they are primarily used in VW and Audi. Ribe Tool = Ribe Bolt.

 

that is quite dramatic. The right tool is always best but pros and diy guys have been successfully using what works since first metal forged. Using the wrong tool can be ignorance but it can also be a calculated risk. What is important is if the mechanic knows what to do if that risk comes to fruition. Anyone use Phillips for posidrive? I have. Anyone use a 12pt for a square head? I have.

 

This site among others said that RIBE-CV was the same as Polydrive. exx.se/techinfo/bolt_heads/index.html

List of screw drives - Wikipedia
"The polydrive screw drive, also known as RIBE,[57] is spline-shaped with rounded ends in the fastener head. The tool has six flat teeth at equal spacing; the sizes are determined by the diameter of the star points. Its primary advantage over older screw drives is that it resists cam out. It is used primarily in the automotive industry in high-torque applications, such as brakes and driveshafts."

Polydrive® | Brugola

 

Then YOU should use it, for myself, I'll go with what Snap On says, my micrometer, the illustration of what the faces of each tool looks like. My final suggestion is try both in a bolt and then tell me what YOU think.

BTW, YOU or anybody can edit Wikipedia. That's what a Wiki is!

Cheers!

File is screen shot of using Google, 1st answer:

 

I think I'm starting to see why nobody corrects anything here. LOL

Billybob, wasn't "joining a strip club" at least somewhat humorous while I was being "quite dramatic" (rhetorical).

Sorry, but I can't subscribe to "using the wrong tool as a calculated risk". I'm pretty sure SpaceX wouldn't be in favor of your theory. Why would you risk screwing up an expensive part on a 100K car over a $15.00 tool that you can probably get the same day. For myself "calculated risk" is for track days or investments...

Re "posidrive" I have always preferred Limited Slip to Posi. I believe you meant "PoziDriv".

Pretty sure "fruition" is an oxymoron the way you used it. It means something good or when you succeed, like when I finish my clutch job.

Finally, re "12pt for a square head?" Yep, sure have but not when it's a high torque situation. Square heads were designed for impact tools unless it's being used as a derogatory slang term, but I digress.