Odd water pump seal question

Ok, I know about the two water pump seals, the "early" type which replaces the original 2 piece type (152051) and the slightly taller later type (183759).

I am replacing the seal during this engine out, as I am replacing the bearings, oil seal, chain and tensioner behind the case cover (actually an easy job).

Why does my late 1991 EU car, 91626, with F113B engine 20382, use the early type seal? The dealer in Modena looked up my serial number in their records and promptly sold me the later type seal. Has anyone else noticed this?

Did Ferrari just install whatever parts were available? The casting dates stamped into all my engine castings are 1989, supposedly after the design change was made. Weird.

I confess I am thoroughly enjoying the two hours I spend every evening on the car.

 

I have this pesky day job, which cuts into my time to perform actual ‘work’ during the week. Weekends are another matter altogether.

My engine is in a clean room at a local independent Ducati service shop run by a friend. The guys collecting their Ducatis stare at the Testarossa lump in awe….

 

I thought the 2 piece seals were NLA, replaced by the early version single unit.

I will certainly test the seal before the engine goes back in the car. While I wait for the seal to arrive, I can install Newman's differential case. It was easy to disassemble and swap the parts to the new case last night, but my new non-oem limited slip friction disks don't match up. Problems, but I am getting there, and getting a decent education along the way.

Tonight I install the bearings and the races and check their preload in the transmission case before installing the ring gear. But for the fact that I tore the gasket behind the cover for the oil pump chain case and must wait for a new gasket (grrr) I could reunite the engine and the transmission on the weekend.

 

So, one more TR water pump question for the experts - do you install the metal sleeve (spacer) which fits inside of the seal over the pump shaft (so that the spacer is flush with the top of the seal) before you fit the seal into the case, or do you install the spacer first into the case and push the seal over it when you tap the seal into the case?

I did the latter today and managed to damage the seal. Grrr....

Is there a trick to this?

 

Thanks. The base of the sleeve needs to fit inside the rubber seal inside the block, I would have thought that you need to install the sleeve into the case first, before trying to install the seal.

This task was so easy last time I did it in 2009. Maybe my skills are declining.

What rig is best for pressure testing it?

 

Many thanks. I may print the entire thread.