The valve cover gaskets are stamped out in one piece to presumably save material. They need to be cut apart to fit. The ends at both front and back need to be trimmed to fit, I use a combination of hole punch to nibble radius and nail clipper dikes.. Though I think the wife calls them cuticle clippers... To get straight cuts. I trim the front O ring side to fit, clip/test etc.. before final placement and a dab of Honda bond etc.. leave the back end long at the other end. Once the covers are in place and final tq has occurred, I use a razor blade to trim the gasket to the head and cover. It'll make sense when you start what's going on. As to the silicone, I small dab in the corners, either side of gasket material... And here's the critical bit -do not fully tq- the covers in place.. place them on, press into place to seat.. Let cure for an HR or so... Then go back, install hardware, finger tight, cover should set firmly in place but not be fully compressed. Leave for a couple hrs or overnight. Then fully tq. If the silicone is fully compressed before it starts curing it'll squeeze out everywhere and prone to leaking. It's a slightly tricky procedure, you don't want the sealant to cure and keep the cover from sealing flat, so the first hr let's it tackup, then adding more pressure presses the silicone into place without squeezing it all out, final tq sets it. And you really don't need a lot. Pea sized is plenty. GT car parts gaskets have a thermal set coating that seals the surfaces at operating temp. So nice and clean surfaces are a must. Have a box of razor blades and time set aside for cleaning. I do a final wipe down with acetone but you can use other solvents as well. The groove in the cover tends to be filled with silicone from previous over zealous mechanics so cleaning those can be a pita.. solvent tanks help but not critical. Small brass brushes, razor blades and picks will do the tedious job. You'll spend more time cleaning and prepping then it takes to check valve lash and change belts.. 5-8 bank will be an adventure in yoga and contortion.
So far the worst part about this job has been removing the AC compressor. Mounting studs were 1/4”-3/8” too long .. pulled all of them one at a time last night and shortened them using a cut off wheel. Should make a HUGE difference next time. Still waiting on Belts so cleaning the engine up and thought I would replace the water pump. Anyone know what the torque specs are on pump mounting to the housing? Also torque spec on nut holding pulley? Went through my Quattrovalvole workshop manual and about 9000 threads on the subject but no torque specs listed.
Well-answered above, but here's my extra: the valve cover gasket will extend slightly beyond the edge of the cover/head, once it's all in place and tight. We're talking maybe a 1-3mm, it's not much (how much, will depend on how much it shifts after the torquing.) The endcaps need to sit flush against the head/cover combo, and that extra bit of gasket flashing will prevent it from sitting fully flush. It's only a tiny bit, but in the same way that you can feel the smallest pebble in your shoe - it's enough to matter, and give the cap a place to leak. So, shave the extra bit extending out, so that the cover gasket is flush. I use a razor blade, doesn't take much cutting effort.
smg2 this helps immensely! But I’m a little confused with the Hondabond and then silicone reference. They are one in the same correct? Do you by chance remember torque specs for the cam covers? Looks like I have a pretty good leak on both front/rear bank cam covers / cam seals up front that will need addressed once I pull the covers. Once again, huge thanks for information!
Hondabond is a silicone... So yeah, same. Tq specs I don't have in my head... I've got a cheat sheet in the build room for that. The various wsm have it as well. Let's see... http://ferrari.cdyn.com/ Useful link with docs..
So my water pump came off with little issue but while cleaning up the housing surface I noticed that I’m missing an alignment sleeve that aligns the pump with the housing. If you look at the picture the one on the left is missing. Is this a big deal? Is it possible to get another? The 13 mm bolt that screws into that area was the only bolt that was rusted. Guessing I should coat all the mounting bolts with anti-seize before threading them back in. (That’s shadow not rust on the rear bank) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Back of the housing looks pretty chewed up. The impellers on the pump I took off are plastic and look fine. Hard for me to believe those gouges are factory? You guys think maybe a previous owner with a water pump and brass impeller accounts for this? Picture of the old pump and the new pump Image Unavailable, Please Login
I would have kept everything except the belts only because they are cheaper than a tank of gas. Otherwise, everything else should be fine. As for where you are in the project, have you changed/are you planning to change the o-ring between the block and water pump manifold at this time? It might be over 30 years old and you are a half hour away from being able to replace it.
Torques are 43 ft-lb for the water pump pulley nut. ( I use an impact gun because I don't like damaging anything trying to hold the impellor in place) water pump to block and tensioner casting to head 18 ft-lb. Tensioner bearing nut is 48 ft-lb.
Missing dowel... Yeah get another one. McMaster or even GT car parts, rutlands.. it's a metric dowel so it shouldn't be hard to source... https://www.mcmaster.com/dowel-pins/hollow-dowel-pins/ Without the pin the pump will not sit centered and cause issues. Looks like witness marks from the last time.
That’s a very good idea. Totally forgot about that O-ring. Will get one coming from T Rutland in the morning. Big thank you for the torque specs also!
Seriously, thank you for all your help. I’m not much of a mechanic so any help I get is really appreciated! Will see if Rutland has one of those dowel’s when I call them in the morning. Should I use something more than anti-seize on those 13 mm bolts holding the pump to the housing? Guessing they’re exposed to coolant?
The bosses they thread into are blind so there's no direct water contact. I'd assume it's weeping from the pump to housing gasket over time. Anti-seize should be fine.
Ideally, you want to make sure those bolts are not corroded and the plating is intact. The reason Ferrari changed from four studs to four bolts was due to corrosion and build up of "crud" in the bores making it nearly impossible to remove the manifold without removing the studs (not simple I can attest). If the plating is fine, then you are good to go, but if not, its wise to replace them or replate them with zinc.
Will do. Pulled the water pump housing this morning. O-ring and alignment dowel shipping today. Will give Rutlands another call and tell him to throw those four bolts in the order also.
Planned on pulling the cam covers sometime this afternoon and I have a very vague memory of being able to disconnect the fuel distributor and fold all the fuel lines onto the Plenum to get them out of the way. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Or do I have the wrong vehicle in mind.
Re torque specs... Remember that the torque specs vs the actual tension can be more than 30% different if using a lubricant as opposed to not using a lubricant. IOW, if the torque spec is dry and you use lubricant on the threads, if you apply spec torque, you are actually applying 30-40% MORE tension than the torque spec. This is an easy way to snap bolt heads or strip threads, especially if aluminum fitting are involved. Pretty much anything you apply to the threads is a 'lubricant' as far as tightening is concerned - engine oil, antiseize, loctite, etc... I learned that lesson very early in my mechanical life which also allowed me to learn about Heli-coils!
Taking a break and having a cup of coffee. Thanks Mike! It’s always funny when it’s the other guy! Got a chuckle out of the Heli coil‘s comment. Thanks for the information on torque specs/ lubricant,would like to avoid any bolt snapping this go around. Finally got the gouges sanded out of my water pump housing. Image Unavailable, Please Login
It’s been about 15 years since I watched my buddy do the service on my GTB so I need some direction.. just to the side of each distributor is a cam cap cover with an oil line coming off of it. Do I need to remove all four 10mm bolts? Or just the two holding the cap to the cam cover? And same question for the distributor housing. I only removed the one 10 mm bolt that attaches the cam cover. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Off topic but I pulled all eight spark plugs and to me they look like the car is running rich? They don’t smell of fuel but they certainly are not golden brown. Car does have a slight miss through all RPM ranges. Also see that I cracked the front bank Image Unavailable, Please Login distributor cap two weeks ago after putting new cork gasket between the housing and the cap. Just never ends.
They might be slightly rich (a bit hard to tell from this photo without a close up of the electrode), but I've seen a lot of plugs that look a lot like that and it was not a big problem... And this was on cars with modern engine management computers. If it still bugs you, check the A/F mix ratio once you have it all put back together and make sure it's where it needs to be. Mine is *slightly* rich at idle, but perfect at around 3K.
