I'm using 3/16" female terminals and making the holes slightly bigger in the stock connector block. It's taking a while as the previous owner soldered wires directly onto the terminals on the fuse board so I had to take the whole thing out of the car and strip it down. With the amount of manhandling of all this delicate wiring, it'll be a miracle if everything still works once I button it all back together. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well that explains how the wires stayed in despite the broken plastic connector. I suspect you will get everything working well, good luck! Fyi, Maranello Classic Parts in the UK still carries the factory connectors pins. Any idea what the AWG guage of the wires are? I am doing a search on connectors but need to input the guage to narrow things down.
Jesus......please help my Ferrari brothers in this time of distress......why would anyone do that to a Ferrari.
The thicker wire looks like 12 Gauge and that's what I'm using for this repair. Here's the new connector with the new 3/16"terminals. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've buttoned everything back up with the new W connector with the new terminals, but like I thought would happen, I somehow disturbed some wiring. The clock is no longer on. Before I go digging, do you know what I may have done? I saw in another post, you mention the K connector, terminal 2 for the memory for the clock, but I don't think that's my problem. Thanks again Steve, I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Have you checked the fuse for the clock? I think it's fuse #4 (which is the 5th fuse position from the left on a US 3.2 since the first fuse position is empty and not numbered). Are the other functions that that fuse serves working? Courtesy lights (door open lights), hazard lights, etc.?
Thanks for your reply, Steve. I just checked, all the fuses are good and everything else on that circuit works. The clock is dead but if I press the top clock button, the digits display for a half second or so.
Okay, so I attempted to demystify the '87 Mondial wiring diagram that someone helpfully made available to the community. There's a pink/yellow wire from the clock that goes through the J connector of all things, so I yanked the fuse panel out yet again (I don't know how many times I can do that before those flimsy plastic tabs break and I shatter brittle wires). So it looks like the terminal in question on the J connector is pretty cooked. It didn't smell freshly burnt so perhaps the charring has made it a fussy connection that I disturbed and I didn't re-seat exactly right. I don't know if this is the culprit, but I'll replace that with a beefier terminal and will see if that brings any joy. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I admire your persistence...I gave up (like many others) repairing the OEM boards. I want to see where this is leading to.
Well, just to put this thread to bed, the issue with the clock was indeed that terminal in the J connector, which I replaced. Everything works great, and no longer has the look of having been 'repaired' during an acid trip. Thanks everyone!
Well done, that is quite the project to tackle, twice it sounded like, to get everything sorted. I am on my original fuse board, all is working, but I have purchased a "new" remanufactured G.T. Car Parts board. Not sure if I should just be proactive and install it, or wait until something actually goes wrong with the original (although the plastic main board casing is showing some cracking from age and heat). I am also worried about breaking wires and connectors while swapping things out, so I am caught between the idea of replacement and the if it aint broke leave it alone idea. With your successful repair, it makes me think I should keep the old board going as long as it lasts, which may still be quite some time.
Thanks moysiuan. Ah, yes 'if it ain't broke...'. Fortunately my wiring was tantamount to being broke or at least a fire hazard, so in a way I had no choice but to get aggressive. But I will say; the wiring is generally more robust than I would have thought, each bundle of connector wires can stand a surprising amount of contorting. Good luck for when you eventually dive in. It'll be many hours of bending over the front of your car, and if you're anything like me, halfway through you'll be asking yourself 'what have I done?'