Ferrari 328 Power Issue | FerrariChat

Ferrari 328 Power Issue

Discussion in '308/328' started by MikeInPeoria, Oct 23, 2021.

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  1. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    I have a 1987 328 that has been experiencing power issues. I bought the 328 in January 2021 and had the 30k service and many other items repaired. I received the car back and it ran fine for a couple of months. While I was driving three weeks ago, I experienced a sudden drop in rpm. When I tried to accelerate, it sputtered and barely let me limp home. I took it to my local repair shop in Peoria, IL (Kauth and Mayeur) and they determined that it had two bad injectors. So, they replaced them all. I have driven the 328 for approximately 100 miles and today the same problem surfaced. I was approaching a traffic light and the rpm's dropped. The engine seemed to struggle to maintain 1,000 rpm at idle. Luckily, I was 5 miles from home and drove it back to my garage. Any attempts to push on the gas pedal to achieve rpm were super sluggish. I was able to get up to 4,000 rpm, but then engine struggled. Any ideas? It clearly wasn't the injectors.

    When I bought the car and had it shipped to my home, Kauth & Mayeur performed the 30k service and replaced the fuel pump.

    Please send me your recommendations. Thank you!
     
  2. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Jun 11, 2004
    10,666
    CT
    Full Name:
    John Kreskovsky
    Just a guess for something to look at. Could be you are losing spark on one bank.
     
  3. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    I was thinking the same thing. I had the rear main seal replaced because of a leak that was present before I purchased the vehicle.. At that time, they replaced one of the distributor oil seals, but didn't explain why. It wasn't till after that seal was replaced that I experienced this problem.
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,140
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Is this a US version 328? If the power loss is roughish and unsmooth, verify if the frequency valve is vibrating/buzzing or not (by touching it) -- it should vibrate/buzz whenever the engine is running or the starter motor cranking (i.e., whenever the fuel pump is running -- so you can also just unplug the safety switch and turn the key "on"). If it doesn't = strong sign something is wrong with the operation of the Protection Relay. If a bank of ignition is lost, the power is down, but the engine should still run smoothly. Please describe your power loss as being rough or smooth.
     
  5. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

    Jun 14, 2008
    6,690
    Full Name:
    Mike 996
    Sounds like fueling to me...
     
  6. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    Thanks for your reply! This is a US 328. I haven't checked the frequency valve, but the power loss seems to be smooth, but just labored. It's like the engine is working super hard to get the rpm's up. It doesn't seem as bad as when this happened before they replaced all of the injectors.
     
  7. hrlevy

    hrlevy Karting

    May 3, 2005
    76
    upstate NY
    Full Name:
    Howard R. Levy
    I had GTSi that had similar issue. Was a wet clogged fuel filter.
     
  8. spirot

    spirot F1 World Champ

    Dec 12, 2005
    14,530
    Atlanta
    Full Name:
    Tom Spiro
    On the 328's your symptoms are electrical. so start there. check fuses - fuel pump fuse 1st.

    then on the rear right side - The passengers side of the trunk undo the carpet on the bottom ( velcro) and undo the 13 mm screws and check that the frequency relay is intact and that the fuse there is ok. this fuse and relay hang upside down and from time to time can work lose.

    if that is not the issue, check for the connectors behind the fuse block ( wiggle them while the car is running ... see if that makes a change finally in the footboard on passengers side there are two main connectors that sometimes the wiring burns out - usually on the fuel pump side. if all your electrical connections are good, THEN start looking at pumps injectors etc.

    If its not electrical - check vacuum lines - they can get holes, that only show up when the engine is warm, causing pressure issues... un metered air etc. I think folks are way too fast to go right to fuel delivery issues.. when most likely its electrical.

    these cars are getting old, and wiring is brittle, so heating and cooling - change of ambient temps can cause issues...

    hope that helps.
     
  9. pappy.72

    pappy.72 Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2010
    516
    Elgin, IL
    Full Name:
    Dave
    My 89 did the same thing and it was the frequency valve relay like Steve mentions. Check for the buzzing or just unplug it to see if it is working. You can test it with a 12v jump to see if the relay is working. I ended up buying a Porsche part with updated fuse and it worked great and only $90.
     
  10. Stenley

    Stenley Karting

    Oct 20, 2020
    54
    Los Angeles
    Full Name:
    Scott Tenley
    I just had same issue with mine and it was indeed the fuel pump relay. Super cheap and easy to fix.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  11. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    Thanks. Do you happen to have the part number(s)?
     
  12. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    I will check it. Thanks!
     
  13. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    THANK YOU for the suggestions!! I really appreciate it. I'll start checking.
     
  14. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    The filter was just changed in Feb as part of the 30k service.
     
  15. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    I'm pretty sure the shop check that the first time and it wasn't the case. We'll check it again, though. Thanks!
     
  16. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Jun 11, 2004
    10,666
    CT
    Full Name:
    John Kreskovsky
    Well, the shop also said it was fuel injectors. ;)
     
  17. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,140
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Don't buy a new Protection Relay unless you confirm that the frequency valve is not vibrating/buzzing -- even then, you should first check its 10A fuse, too, as that fuse is supposed to blow if the alternator goes haywire -- hence the name (Overvoltage) Protection Relay.

    Since you report that the power loss is "smooth", you should confirm/deny if spark is occurring on both banks using a timing light or spark tester IMO.
     
  18. Freddie328

    Freddie328 Formula Junior

    Jul 29, 2013
    294
    Herts, UK
    Full Name:
    Richard
    That's exactly what happened to mine a while back. Car ran smoothly with no power and low idle RPM. turned out to be a loose HT cable connector that fixes into the coil on one bank had come unclipped.
     
    Albert-LP likes this.
  19. Albert-LP

    Albert-LP F1 Veteran
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Sep 1, 2010
    7,784
    around Modena, Italy
    Full Name:
    Alberto Mantovani
    I don't know USA models enough but the problem couldn't be the injectors as K-Jetronic is a CIS so the fuel dose is made by the fuel distributor plate. When you hear your mechanic that tells you "the problem could be the injectors" means you got the wrong mechanic. Very likely you lost electric power to one of two banks spark plugs or there is an electric problem to the fuel pump. I don't know anything about the frequency valve as there isn't on the italian cars.

    Ciao
     
  20. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    I think I found the culprit. I opened the engine compartment to start troubleshooting based on the suggestions in this thread. One of the first things I noticed was the right coil wire not fully inserted (see pics). It's also missing the cover/boot protector. So, I ordered a new wire and protector. I should have it this week. I don't know how my local shop didn't notice the missing protector, which should have kept the wire snug in the coil.

    I also noticed oil in the distributor cap. This is obviously due to the seal. The local shop just replaced one of the distributor seals, but didn't note which one on the service report. I sure hope it wasn't this one.

    As soon as I install the new wire, I will post an update - most likely, on Friday.

    Thanks for all the suggestions!

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  21. Freddie328

    Freddie328 Formula Junior

    Jul 29, 2013
    294
    Herts, UK
    Full Name:
    Richard
    If you've driven any distance like that then you also need to check that the Copper terminal inside the coil that the lead pushes into isn't toast.
    Re the seal, these have a circular spring that holds the lip against the camshaft. Care must be taken to ensure this spring doesn't become dislodged when inserting the seal. Otherwise it will leak.....
     
  22. spirot

    spirot F1 World Champ

    Dec 12, 2005
    14,530
    Atlanta
    Full Name:
    Tom Spiro
    Leaking cam seals is kind of a "thing" in the 308/328 world. unless its a huge leak you can usually live with it.
    glad you found the culprit.
     
  23. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    I see. The cam seals were replaced in Feb as part of the 30k service. Shouldn't they last more than 8 months?
     
  24. MikeInPeoria

    MikeInPeoria Rookie

    Nov 23, 2020
    36
    Full Name:
    Mike Hernandez
    Good idea. Thanks!
     
  25. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,662
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    There is a trick to install that seal.
     

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