Best battery

Amazing response

 

Nope, super straight forward, unbolt the battery bracket and leads and struggle to remove the heavy OEM battery from the tiny foot well area, marvel at how light the new lithium one is and yell at yourself for not doing this earlier, and bolt everything back in.

 

It's a very straightforward install on the 458 usually. Make sure to disconnect the negative cable first when removing the current battery and then install the negative lead last when installing the new battery. Take your time with the positive side, as there is a plate affair with stuff built into the top part. Also, if I remember correctly, on the positive side, there may be two small retaining screws which need to be removed as well.

Also, depending on what battery you are using, keep in mind (especially if you have to install terminal posts), the negative and positive are often slightly different diameters.

Generally the most difficult part is getting the old heavy battery out. I'd suggest putting down a moving blanket or something to help protect the carpet and flood.

I can't remember if there is a vent tube on the 458, but if so, it's not used on the Lithium battery. I might be thinking of the 360 however.

Good luck with the install! Make sure to follow the reconnection procedure in the owner's manual when reconnecting the battery and powering the car back up.

Ray

 

I did a video on the Antigravity Lithium battery a while back y'all might appreciate.


Some notes now that I've been using it for a few years and have many people I know using it... I still keep it on a tender, mostly because it will help keep the battery in better condition so it lasts longer. You must use a Lithium compatible tender, a normal lead acid tender will damage the Lithium batteries. Other than that, it's been a champ! No issues, no slow starts, no trouble in the Texas heat, it's been 100% reliable so far. Plus it's only 15lbs which is nice when trying to install.

I sell them on my site here
I would recommend at least the 40ah just because these cars do have high electrical demands. The 60ah is even better but not necessary. I'm also working on getting the Ctek to Ferrari adapters from a wholesaler so I can get those to y'all for cheaper. Oh yeah, use the code fchat and it takes off 10%.

 

Oh awesome! Thank you very much for the support! We appreciate it tremendously. Let me know if there's anything else I can hook you up on.

 

One other tip. Build in sufficient time or effort to do the drive cycle needed to reset your OBD monitors if you’re any time close to needing a smog check. Swapping a battery will cancel the readiness codes and your car will fail (at least in California) if any of them fail to show “ready”.


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Hey Dan, nice video there. I'm sure that has helped a lot of people.

Something to mention regarding keeping Lithium batteries on a tender constantly:

I'm not sure how your battery tender for the Lithium battery is setup or how it functions when left plugged in, but generally speaking you can extend the life of Lithium cells by *not* always charging them to 100% capacity.

Do you happen to know if the Lithium tenders have any provisions for keeping the charge at more like 80% or 90% or do they always charge to 100%? I've never used a tender with a Lithium battery myself, so I don't know one way or the other.

I can say, on my 458 - when using the Braille i48CS - I found that I never had to use a tender of any sort. Not having to have the Ferrari constantly tethered to the wall was a breath of fresh air and the higher voltage of the Lithium definitely had a positive impact on how the car functioned overall. As long as I drove the car at least once every 2-3 weeks, everything worked perfectly with regard to starting and the electrical system. Even going 3 weeks without driving the car, it would still crank fast and fire right up.

Anyway, my understanding is that allowing Lithium cells to cycle between 20% and 80% usually helps to extend the overall cell life from what I have read (as opposed to constantly charging the battery to 100% of its maximum charge all the time). From what I have searched on line, it appears most Lithium cells last around 5 years, but with proper maintenance lifespan can sometimes be extended to as much as 8 years. I know Braille has batteries in the field which are going on 8+ years and when I inquired with them regarding how long I could expect the i48CS to last, they said anywhere between 5 to 8 years (depending on use) as I remember.

Here's a pretty good article which talks further. In the article, they mention it's best to charge to 100% and then disconnect. I'm wondering how the battery tender approaches this and/or if they just are constantly bumping up the charge to 100% all the time they are connected?

https://www.powerelectronics.com/markets/mobile/article/21859861/proper-care-extends-liion-battery-life

I'm also attaching two screen shots from the article above, just in case the link goes away in the future.

Ray

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I've read that too about not charging to full capacity. I'm not sure how the tender works so I don't want to speculate. The warranty on the AG batteries is 5 years, and when I met them a few years ago and talked with them in person, they said they generally expect the batteries to last about 8-10 years. They didn't mention the tender though. I may have to ask my contacts there what they recommend.

 

I totally love my AG battery (Thanks Dan!) Swapped out the stock battery on the 3rd day of getting my F8. Now 4 months on and no issues.