I am changing the timing belts and have a few questions: 1) Rotate left to loosen and right to tighten the main pulley (couldn't find the answer in the manual)? Image Unavailable, Please Login 2) Are there slots in the pressure plate for the tool to fit into? The shoulder bolts are way too short for mine. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login 3) is a 1/2 breaker bar going to break it loose? Seems to be impossible to get an impact wrench on there. I cut down a socket and it clears by about 1mm. 196Nm = 144 ft-lbf Image Unavailable, Please Login
1. Right handed bolt, lefty loosie. 2. The tool fits into a big void in the flywheel / pressure plate area. It does not fit a TDC for any cylinder. You slowly turn the crankshaft until the holding tool "drops" into its place where it fits flush against the case and the four mounting holes line up well. 3. That breaker bar will work if you are a big guy. I need 24 inches of a long ratchet.
Clue: the shoulder allen bolts are just fine. If they don't fit, the tool is not in the correct position.
Based on these questions, I'm going to assume this is your first time at the 360 belt change process. Please, for the love of all things red, Italian, and Luca-era-esque, click this link: https://www.ricambiamerica.com/guides/pt360_bearing_orientation Do it wrong, and this will become a long winter.
A few updates for anyone attempting this as well. 1) there are spaces in the pressure plate for the tool to fit into. I got my old pressure plate out to figure it all out, shown below. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I bought my tools from an F-Chatter. They mentioned that there is a slight miss-alignment with the screw holes which results in a less than perfect fit, shown below. Image Unavailable, Please Login However, it holds fine and prevents the engine from turning. The breaker bar and socket held up fine! It took an enormous amount of pressure to come loose! Supposedly the 1/2" breaker bars are good for at least 300 ft-lbf which I doubt I could apply.
Another update on the actual belt change. With the cams aligned at #1 TDC, there are 10 teeth pulley-pulley. So I marked the old belt and the new belt and recorded the date codes on the new belt. The old belts have a date code of 2011. So glad I am taking the time to get them out!! I made some aluminum slivers and put a shim between the pulleys and clamped them to prevent cam rotation. The shim helped to alleviate distortion of the pulleys and pressure on the cams while allowing adequate clamping pressure. Image Unavailable, Please Login Rear marks on the pulleys. As shown prior to belt removal. Image Unavailable, Please Login Also, marks on the rear of the cams. As shown after belt replacement. Image Unavailable, Please Login Pre-tensioning is a little confusing until you actually go through it. You can get an app for the iPhone. You pluck each length of the belt and record the frequency. Tweaking the tensioner bearing eccentric until both legs add up to about 200Hz. Then you release the hydraulic tensioner. Image Unavailable, Please Login The completed install. The manual states to rotate the engine two complete revolutions and wait two minutes for the tensioners to acclimate. I rotated several more until the belt marks came back up to top. However, they do not re-align with the marks on the pulleys when the belt makes a full revolution. I also went ahead and put new hydraulic tensioners in "while there" since they are nearly 20 years old. Mine had an '02 date code. Image Unavailable, Please Login I did happen to notice that the upper exhaust header nut for #1 is missing!
Sub’d. I will be doing this in a few weeks myself. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
