355 Explanation of secondary air and vacuum system

Yes and yes
I changed the FPR on the bank 1 because that was the one which the STFT was high
I can here a small misfire on bank 1 at idle
Will have to wait till spring to keep diagnosing though

 

as Mitchell said most do not have this valve
I think I may take rails off and add these valves to each
I can weld them on in my shop or weld fittings on and cap them.
What would you guys suggest as I do not really like the idea of introducing a leak by welding them on.
Do they make them or the fittings to add them between the fuel block and the feed line on the rails?
This would be a better solution for the brotherhood long term for everyone I would think

 

Update
Put on new capristo cats as the bank 1 cat was loose inside.
My STFT is low but the LTFT on bank 1 is 18
The car with the new cat is now throwing a slow down light which confirms overfueling to that bank and If I keep it to the floor the light flashes and cuts fuel and engine has no power but then runs smooth if Throttle is slammed open so it is obvious to me it’s over fuelling I think.
Thinking the excessive fuel may have damaged that cat prematurely even though I had no codes or lights prior or it simply wore out slowly and because it was wore out the cat would not heat up as much and throw a light
Mitchell had said earlier it was over fueling due to back fire and I think all this confirms it

I am thinking it could be a few things
A stuck injector so will remove and test all
A vacuum leak on that side of intake system but I smoke tested and all seems good although found a different leak that after fixed had little effect or very little
A vacuum leak on the secondary air injection system because I did glue the vacuum nipple that was cracked (Q) below, not sure if this would cause a problem but thought it may allow air to be pulled through and into exhaust on bank 1 thusemaking the O2 think that bank is lean and add fuel, I will smoke test but could use ideas where to introduce smoke I am thinking At air pump side to ensure valve is not leaking
Last thing I could think of is a spark plug wire is sparking to ground and a plug is not firing. Hhaving said that when I pulled all plugs they looked the same And good, no black ones , but the engine does not run bad at slow throttle increases and only on fast increases. I thought that maybe the 3 mile drive after a full throttle run cleans the plugs up a bit so this could be deceiving.
Maybe MAF but I changed with a new one and engine runs the same so I am thinking I now have a spare MAF
Thanks for any input fellows

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I changed all plugs last fall on that side and no change so not positive new plugs were good but think they likely were
But after reading posts all winter another fchatter had a bad-lug wire he noticed when car was idling in a dark garage and saw it arcing so I am thinking this would do same as a bad plug.
Not sure how else to test a lead but thought pulling plugs would have shown this

 

I was guessing the flow of air through the exhaust might cause enough vacuum to pull fresh air through the secondary air system and cause this but was mostly looking for which things I check and in what order the most likely contributor would be

 

Will replace upstream with a new one
STFT is still positive but below 3
I. Tested the injectors with the Galileo and they all make the same sound and seem like they open and close by the auditory clicking. The Galileo did not show an injector problem
The only time I get a cel is if I floor it and the sdl becomes active
The cam phase sensor is still giving an intermittent code but for all last summer it was active and the car ran fine for months so I have not been bringing that code up for discussion because it never had any bearing on how the car ran even if I did not clear it.

 

Going to do some work and a trial run

 

So just as a check I unplugged 1 injector at a time and the idle got rougher
Does not mean a lot but the injector is working at idle

replaced plug wires with the old ones which were working and took the car out and no change
That bank got as high as 21 on ltft but as I left it idle the STFT finally started showing a slight negative of 1 to 3
The longer I let it idle the STFT got as high as 7 and it slowly started coming down to aboutthe18 or so before it started showing 0

I can not find my new upstream o2 sensor so ordered 1 but I won’t have for a couple days so I was going to move it from 1side to the other if I have time today
If that does not change anything will pull injectors and clean them

 

I think the limit is 25 on LTFT because mine no longer changes

So I switched the upstream o2 and the following occurred
Ltft are as follows
Bank 2 now got richer and is up from 8 I think to about 16 and short term stayed slightly positive fluctuating between 0 and 5 the whole drive about 45 minutes
Bank1 got richer to 25 but now bank 1 actually shows short term as cycling between neg small numbers to positive small numbers and before it was always a positive like bank 2 is now acting. This could also be now that it is rich enough it is cycling positive and negative. It does not stay negative enough to start dropping LTFT on bank 1 though.
Bank two never shows negative now and it was originally cycling between small negative numbers and positive numbers

thenew capristo cats are shielded so they would stay hotter but experience tells me this would be good based on my old cats and data.
I have cat extenders on the down stream so maybe they are not working properly on these cats but I had the problem last fall with the original hyper flows
So I do not think this is the main problem.

Mitchell the voltages upstream jump in a bit of a cycle from .06 volts to 0.7 but stay usually between .4 and .65. And mostly 0.6 to 0.65
The down stream cycle and stay much steadier around 0.06 I am assuming O2B2S1 is upstream and O2B2S2 is down stream.

just for a test I unplugged the MAF and the car drove exactly the same but showed it was not working where as when it is plugged in it fluctuated between 0.02 and 0.2. It accelerated right to redline smoothly if I pushed the pedal slowly and smoothly.
If I jumped on it it shuddered bad until you back out of it and then it gets smooth. It did not seem any more sensitive and was acting exactly how it drives with it plugged in.

I have new down stream 02’s so when the new upstream come in I could change them all but I think they are all working.

I wish I could clear the LTFT but I twisted the battery cutoff over night and it remembered them.
When the MAF was unplugged I did get a CEL but the code was not a MAF code but a upstream O2 sensor malfunction. once cleared and MAF plugged back in only code was the camshaft sensor malfunction “pending code” which I can no longer clear but I think that is normal because it is pending.
Also remember that I had that code all last year and car ran fine for over 1200 miles before starting this problem so I have ruled that out.
No CEL is on after drive of 45 minutes

 

no the code just says catalytic temp exceeded
Or something like that

 

Yes have spacers so will take them out
Before I put them in 15 years ago it’s I would get a cel about 1per month
Maybe I read that wrong and it was 0.6Would that be normal/?

 

All new sensors and same problem
I still get a pending code for the camshaft position sensor.

I think the damage I did on the trigger wheel is causing the problem and the camshaft position sensor all though is just a pending code because it no longer gives a permanent code I can not clear it

the car runs the same whether the sensor is plugged in or not so now I am thinking that is the whole problem.
The brass trigger has tooth marks in it from a vise grip and although I got most of them out I think it’s likely very sensitive

going to fix it first only problem is I need to get it off and not likely an easy chore
Also the sensor looks different so my other on off my old head likely won’t fit.

we’ll see

 

Another no solution update
Sheesh

replaced the camshaft trigger and same issues.
Lot of suggestions so working through them
Unplugged the knock sensor bank 1 for a small drive once engine up to temp and the car ran better for a few accelerations but still getting too much fuel
Then got way worse and sdl went from flashing to cutting off that bank within a few seconds which it never did when plugged in.
Drove slow for a minute or so and then bank cut back in so tried another acceleration and again better but not normal.
Still way too much fuel this time the bank shut down for likely 5 minutes before I got home and shut engine off.

need to remove the spacers I think as Mitchell pointed out and will clean up connectors at the solenoids down by the vac tank.
Will keep you posted