Modena trunk light stays on

I have the problem that the red light on the dash stay's on for warning that the trunck is not closed .
Before i had it time to time when selecting reverse that this light came on , but now it stay's on and i have no gears .
I already used the " search function " here but only find solution for the trunk micro swith . ( witch i tested and is fine )
Now i even disconected the sensor , so it's 100% sure now that i have a open contact but still is the light on .
Also , my interior lights are working and tested all the fuses and there all good .
Maybe a relay ?

 

No relay, but there is a timer associated with the trunk light. Perhaps it has failed? It seems to be located near the forward luggage compartment relays

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Can't seem to find it in the parts manual, though. I guess it should have a number on it if you can find it.

Please let us know if you find it (and the part number).

It's powered by fuse 9, but fuse 9 also powers some of the circuits in the Hazard/Turn module and also sends battery volts to the Immobiliser (for some reason).

Before purchasing a new module, you could try pulling the module to see if the luggage compartment light goes out (with the microswitch in the "lid closed" position).

 

Here's a photo of the timer:

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If pulling the timer doesn't help, it sounds like a wiring problem. Let me know if you need a wiring diagram.

 

Hmmm.... after further reading... I'm not sure if the Coupe has this timer. I only see it mentioned in the newer Spider manuals.

AldousVoice (360/430 website) shows a photo of this area without the timer. Is it only found on spiders/newer models?

 

Assuming there is no timer on the coupe, then there must be a short to ground somewhere.

Does the light in the frunk work? If not, check for loose wiring in the lamp area shorting to ground.

Here's a modified Coupe wiring diagram which includes the frunk open wiring (see 9A and 3A on the right side of the diagram), but not the timer.

https://www.dropbox.com/t/hr5EaJwIyGemyRGi

 

I think i miss " discribed" my problem . It's the red " trunk" light on my dash that stays on . So i can't select any gears .
I can select all gears when engine is not running , but not with engine running.

 

It's not a trunk. It's a gear lever

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F1 experts?

 

Sorry, I can't help but I have a similar problem with my car. The red light dash warning is related to being an F1 gearbox fault. When the light illuminates on my car the accelerator pedal stops working i.e. there is no power and the engine rpm does not increase when the accelerator pedal is pushed down. Does your car do the same? Have you had the fault codes read to provide some clues regarding the likely cause of the fault? My car has fault code P0688 ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit Open and P0725 Engine Speed Input Circuit.

 

Owww , ok. I thought it was the rear trunk indicator.

so possible it’s a fault in the reverse lever ?

 

On the basis that you are unable to select any gears at all I doubt that it is a problem with the reverse lever. If you don't have an OBD fault code reader it may be worthwhile buying one and checking what fault codes are present. The generic OBD readers are very cheap and readily available on eBay.

 

As mentioned above ..get a good reader that looks at data streams and errors ..e.g ap200

By the sounds of it ..it could a few things related to pressure in the F1 system

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I have a texa reader with the “supercar” module .

Getting the fault “ Clutch engaged beyond slipping start position “

did tried to do the “auto-learn “ but nothing happend and now i have a second fault that it was unable to do the self-learning.

 

I didn’t mean that. I simply meant the symbol was derived from a gear lever, not a hood. It could mean any F1 fault.

 

How many miles on clutch
Clutch position new and calculated
PIS
HYDRAULIC pressure
Input shift revolutions in neutral
Leakage rate for solenoid
Pump cycle times and "on" times

Since you have a great tool ..provide the above data items


Is this your car or a clients car..I see you own a shop

Any signs of leaks from bell housing

If yours tell us what led up to this ..slow progression or bam problem

Also provide the actual codes ..





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I have indeed a car shop , but this was my personal car. ( my first Ferrari )

Car is sold now but on the day the client came to take a testride , no more gears…

Never had issues before to put in first gear , just for reverse time to time i had to select first gear and then go to reverse. ( but i see on the forum that’s a thing happening a lot on the f1’s )

The texa reader I bought just 4 weeks ago , just to read out my Ferrari. So not so familiar with the reader. ( our other one that we use for some years now is a Autel )

How many miles ( km’s overhere ) the clutch is in , no idea. I bought the car at 67.000km and now it’s at 69.800km.

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Faultcodes :

( the rear light relay already replaced , and light are working but stil get this fault. Can erase it but comes back after restart )
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I need a little bit more on pressure before giving you my remote diag.. can you tell me once you open the door how long pump runs and what the pressure is on texa when it stops. How long does stay off ? Turn key on ( engine off) and let me know again how long pump runs and how long off , do once again with key on but this time switch from n to 1 to n to r to n to 1 - how many shifts do you do before pump turns on.. and the last test with engine running how long does pump run and stay off for

Please look at pressure on texa in real time as you are doing these tests and report back with that as well

Based solely on reports above - your clutch and clutch solenoid are pretty much toast - not saying yet that it is the reason behind all your problems but if your feedback on the above tests don't show any issue with pump or accumulator or loose screws I think you will be looking at a new clutch, solenoid rebuilt and a new TO bearing

The error of beyond PIS also shows me that clutch is toast and reporting 0.0 ...but lets do the last few tests before we get to a final conclusion

Your clutch wear index is also thru the roof which also points to a bad clutch / bad solenoid

Look for overheat times on TEXA as well

I assume you checked fluid level and before doing any changing of parts do a full bleed of both clutch and actuator - again ..doesn't appear to be that but it is pretty much cheap especially if labor is free

 

Ok , just for the first part ( how long the pump runs when i open the door , and final presure. ) is inpossble because to read out with texa the contact has to be on. with the contact to the off position i don't have conection to the ecu .

 

Ok ..

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Pump on time when opening door : 11 sec.
( after 30 the immobilizer kicks in and after that the pump won’t go on back , car was untouched for at least 20 hours)

With contact on : 5 sec on and 9 min 26sec off.
51.8 bar after pump is off and kicks back in at 41.1bar.

With engine running : 1.85sec pump on time ( 52.1bar ) and 11min20sec off time ( backbto 41.1bar and then go’s back on )

Fluid is a bit over the max in the reservoir.
Haven’t done a bleeding of the fluid.

Have these faults back today :
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Unfortunately those few tests proves the pump, accumulator look good

I would try a bleed of clutch and bleed of actuator using the screws ..this will require removing the actuator

I am not convinced that will.makena difference but we have to do that considering that would be the last thing to do before before saying the clutch and clutch throw out bearing are the cause

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Ok. Wil take the undercarriage off now and put it on the ramp. Are the clutch and the actuator getting fluid out off the same reservoir? ( the one at the pump in the right rear corner )


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Yes do you have a WSM for it for the procedure ?



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No. Was going to Google it , but if you have it … [emoji6]
( like i said , my first Ferrari .did a clutch job once on a 360 manual , but that’s more than 12 years ago . when i was still working for a Boss )


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Give me a email to send to since I cannot attach here .. i will send you 5 pages or so

 

[email protected]


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