TR Clutch issue

air for sure
I think the trick is keep the fluid tank completely full at all times. The clutch fluid pickup is 1/3? 1/4? From the top of the tank
Barry

QUOTE="qwazipsycho, post: 148225972, member: 13820"]I've put this off long enough. Ever since I put my car back together the last time I've had an issue with the clutch. I thought I just still had air in the line. And that may still be true but here's what's happening:

If the car has rested for a while and I put my foot on the clutch it may let me put it in gear, it may require me to let off and pump it one more time. Also, when I shift from first to second I must be careful because it may grind, or it may slide into gear. Sounds like air in the line right? Well I can't seem to get any out.

The kicker was when I took a drive into the mountains. I was climbing consistently in elevation. I live about 4k feet. I drove to about 10k feet and when I pushed the clutch it went to the floor with no resistence and wouldn't come back up. I had to pull it with my toe and then pump a few more times to get it to come back to life. Weird. Still sounds like a bunch of air?

I've bled and bled and bled. Am I doing it wrong? Never had this problem before and this is my 3rd clutch.[/QUOTE]

 

How ground down were the fingers of your pressure plate when you changed your clutch. The part that impacts the throw out bearing? I sometimes have similar behavior with my clutch, I have to make sure that the pedal is absolutely all the way to the floor, like through the firewall before it'll let me shift in to first. My pressure plate fingers look eroded and that's a theory I have - that the erosions are requiring additional pedal travel.

 

Sorry, missed the most important part, keep it topped up When bleeding the clutch. Keep the level at the full mark for normal operation. I think I went through a litre and a half flushing and bleeding mine. I thought I was done a few times but that , just one more to be sure, always pushed out more air. Except for the last time.

 

The other thing is to measure your clutch pedal travel (should be no more than 1 - 2 mm). That will confirm there is no air in the system. Bleeding is a pain as barryr said and when I did my clutch I had to bleed it a few times to make sure.

 

Not trying to hijack this thread but I wanted to ask if someone is familiar with this brand, it seems the stage 1 (which is the equivalent of the OEM organic material) is less than $600 dollars
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPEC-Stage-1-Single-Disc-Clutch-Kit-for-84-91-Ferrari-Testarossa-SFE481-/373073604011?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

Have lots of fluid on hand, don’t mix the types (3,4). Good luck!
Barry

 

Just curious, did you replace the clutch at this last major? If so, did you replace the slave cylinder seals in the bellhousing?

 

How did it go Scott?

 

Yes it does at times

 

My clutch drag turned out to be someone replaced the clevis pin under the dash with an M10 bolt when they replaced the clutch master cylinder.

From what I've seen, you need very little slack in the clutch pedal assembly. There are a lot of joints that can collectively add to dragging clutch (mine still drags in first gear, I need to adjust a bit more). You have the clutch pedal stop and you have the plunger that pushes into the master that can be adjusted as well.

Of ALL the work I've done on my car, my clutch has been the most persnickety of all systems to adjust. I made a tool that would help me measure the depth of the throw out travel and then I would check the discs to be sure they are loose between the pressure plate and the flywheel (use a feeler gauge). Then you can really 'see' what the clutch travel is doing and if your bleeding/adjusting is changing it for the better.

Hope that helps give you some ideas. You're not alone, I just didn't find a lot of issues that looked like mine online.