Ah that's great news thanks!
Big issue: the side impact beams in the US replacement doors are very approximately positioned... the lh door beam doesn't give enough clearance to the door lock actuator rods - opening/closing the door works (just) but the locking motion needs more space/play than the original "adjustment" provided: Image Unavailable, Please Login Obvious factory hack... Image Unavailable, Please Login The beam on the other side is about massively lower in the area, so the lock works Image Unavailable, Please Login An increased space was cut out: Image Unavailable, Please Login That provided the necessary space for the locking action to work Image Unavailable, Please Login
With that mechanical issue solved, next is the installation of the door wiring; plug pin attribution drawings help a lot: Image Unavailable, Please Login Additional window power (12V via a fuse directly from the battery) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Taping pins together helps getting them through the bellow and door jamb: Image Unavailable, Please Login Floor courtesy lights Image Unavailable, Please Login Window relays ground Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
bonnet gutter drain bellows (self-reproduced) Image Unavailable, Please Login Rad foam Image Unavailable, Please Login restored wiper motor installation with new grommets: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login followed by cowl air trim and wiper arms Image Unavailable, Please Login side intake strakes Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Problem... too much paint thickness in the critical area - paint chipped, will need a retouch. Removing paint on strakes and body was necessary to allow proper fitting - we're talking tenth of a mil... Image Unavailable, Please Login Horns installed Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Various restored plugs, grommets and new spare tire belt (with original hardware) refitted: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Antenna cable routed - there is a tab in the trunk to hold it up: Image Unavailable, Please Login down the rear seat back Image Unavailable, Please Login across the rh rear pax footwell, together with the handbrake cable, below an alloy protection into the centre console Image Unavailable, Please Login
I added the wiring for the 3rd stop lamp to the RH cantrail wiring (for rear courtesy light and heater rear window) - additional ground using existing bolt at the top of the A-post: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Gas pedal installed Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login torsion bar actuator for RHD cover fitted Image Unavailable, Please Login Pedal hinge cover refitted Image Unavailable, Please Login Gas pedal return spring added Image Unavailable, Please Login 3-part bonnet foam seal glued on Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I remember this thread from when you did the interior but just found it again and have spent the past few days catching up. “Wow” is an understatement. Others have pointed out the excellence of your work so I’ll focus on how impressed I am by your specific ability to take the small, complex parts - like switches - to pieces and get them back together again. My experience says it’s tougher than you make it look. AND, it appears you’re doing much of this refurbishment is an apartment? You must have superb familial- and neighbor-relationship skills in addition to project management. I was sorry to see the paint chips when the strakes went on. Will you re-do/re-paint the sides of the car as a result? I’m two years into a fairly comprehensive renovation of an ‘87 Porsche 924S and while I thought I’d been going pretty deep into it, I have not pursued the same level of detail (nor, it must be noted, is my Porsche/Audi anywhere near as low-volume as your Mondial, with all its low-production, hand-made parts). These special machines are, as you say, like a family dog and yours was very much worth saving. Silver/Argento is exquisite, much better than red. I admire your ethic and skill-set and commend your results. John/Connecticut USA
If you’re interested. … all welcome. No F-car content but I’ve been an Alfa guy forever. John http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/1046846-johnjs-87-924s-rehabilitation.html
John thanks for your message... and yes, the "small" (as in no 4-post lift required) work was done in my flat and therefore all has to be done "surgically" or else I'll get banned/reported or worse! Funny thing I live in a car-free town so everything other than the body/suspension/drivetrain was hand-carried here and back by public transport. So effectively, I am the only person here that had a car at home - admittedly not in one piece at the same time but still. As for the strakes incident (one of THOSE moments) the rear wings upper half had to get repainted. The local Ferrari painter did an excellent job; the body crease and the relatively sharp rear corner allow for a paint transition. Lesson learned. The work on your 924 is fascinating and I like your saving and bringing it back to life. Those early/simple ones look quite pure. The paintwork restoration is amazing and so it the dashboard main body rescue operation... Interesting to see how mass-produced looking Porsches are compared to our cars.
Correct paint code sticker applied - was looking forward for that! Image Unavailable, Please Login Restored electric board brackets with inserts: Image Unavailable, Please Login Electric board fitted (Guido's has been working perfectly for the last 10 years) Image Unavailable, Please Login Next will be the restored main loom through the front bulkhead: Image Unavailable, Please Login Mileage counter and min/max pressure switch Image Unavailable, Please Login That took A WHILE to get through - the hole on the inside is at the different height from the one on the outside (I do know why) Image Unavailable, Please Login Main junctions between dash/console and engine loom on lh front A pillar Image Unavailable, Please Login Good care taken on all grounds: Image Unavailable, Please Login overall view left side Image Unavailable, Please Login right side, note ground and power supply to window accelerators (black wire with blue connector) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Main instruments connections on bulkhead behind steering column (totally inaccessible once the panel is in - better not miss anything there) Image Unavailable, Please Login Auxiliary instruments stack connectors next to it Image Unavailable, Please Login Overall view rh side Image Unavailable, Please Login Gas pedal covers added, a solid medal floor mounted cover over the torque bar and a thermo formed plastic cover over the pedal base Image Unavailable, Please Login Retapping gearshift housing threads on chassis Image Unavailable, Please Login in absence of the mounting bolts cable ties hold the castings together: Image Unavailable, Please Login et voilà: Image Unavailable, Please Login gate and knob fitted (protects my eyes while doing dashboard gymnastics) Image Unavailable, Please Login Handbrake warning light cable passage behind rear seat foot well over the centre tunnel's structure Image Unavailable, Please Login centre tunnel's rear passenger air vent supply tube and wiring laid in Image Unavailable, Please Login
Impressive ===== Urs, your fuse board is the 3th board produced and at that time, it was still in experimental fase. In the mean time a lot of progress in production en testing...(there are 215 boards spread over the whole world) so if you want a board thats new, similar with your car now, just let me know. Tumbs up !!
Gearshift linkage fitted (fine-threaded bolt) Image Unavailable, Please Login rubber boot to seal engine bay from centre tunnel Image Unavailable, Please Login bulkhead view Image Unavailable, Please Login blinker relay relocated from upper bulkhead (inaccessible) to dashboard tie (easily accessible from below the dash) Image Unavailable, Please Login stop-light switch with deviation for 3rd stop lamp Image Unavailable, Please Login centre console main body fitted Image Unavailable, Please Login detail shots of various sections of console from front to rear Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Guido thanks that's a nice offer - at the moment all is well and I won't touch anything that works but should I encounter issues I'll call your hotline
Centre console connectors inside the dashboard on the passenger side Image Unavailable, Please Login HVAC/interior lights timer/check control ecu panel installed Image Unavailable, Please Login relocated blinker relay - so it's easily accessible - installed on rh lower ip tie strap, and connected directly to the battery to improve blinker brightness and speed. Brown wire will have a direct battery feed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Meanwhile, preparation of the rear speaker panels - period NOS 2-way speakers, custom pattern inspired by the front speaker pattern. Speakers were rotten so I replaced the foam: Image Unavailable, Please Login cleaned Image Unavailable, Please Login re-glued new foams Image Unavailable, Please Login installed into the original holes, with water protection caps on the top half: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Centre console wiring installation Image Unavailable, Please Login fibre optics bulb Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login reverse switch wiring Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login switch panel Image Unavailable, Please Login hand brake wire and radio aerial cable passage below alloy protection in the rear pax foot well Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login all in.. Image Unavailable, Please Login
fibre optics lines fitting - the green bunch Image Unavailable, Please Login radio ground strap Image Unavailable, Please Login rear speaker cables - new ones, the original wires were broken Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login 12V and ground supply for the future electric power steering Image Unavailable, Please Login rh side dash ground, with additional EPS ground and spare 12V feed for potential future additions. Also passing behind is the red 3rd stop lamp wire: Image Unavailable, Please Login remote and separately powered blinker relay wiring going into the original plug: Image Unavailable, Please Login overall situation rh dash side behind the cluster Image Unavailable, Please Login additional 12 supply for the future Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
new wiring passage behind steering column and out to the front trunk Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login front trunk wires passing behind the HVAC out to the front trunk (brakes etc Image Unavailable, Please Login completed pax side dash wiring with additional 12V power wire for the window accelerators (thick black one) Image Unavailable, Please Login All new wires fed via a separate fuse box on the driver's side wing, powered by the battery Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login front trunk ground Image Unavailable, Please Login
The rear quarter windows originally had hand-painted black-outs in the rear vertical section and along the lower edge to hide the view behind the interior trim from the outside. This had partially come off over time so I repainted it: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login rear done, clearly visible lower edge degradation: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login rear window lower trim goes in first Image Unavailable, Please Login then the C-pillar trim and seatbelts can be fitted Image Unavailable, Please Login next reel covers and the lower quarter window trim Image Unavailable, Please Login you can see why the additional black-out is necessary Image Unavailable, Please Login
B-pillar trim fitted with the seat belt bolts Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login next lower rear quarter trims Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login center console arm rest and glove box Image Unavailable, Please Login A-pillar trims Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login sunroof opening internal gasket Image Unavailable, Please Login rear wiring passage through firewall with "squeeze" protection for the hvac vacuum line Image Unavailable, Please Login
Upper rear quarter panels fitted Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login finishing the quarter trim with the speaker panels Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login front firewall main wiring passage with wiring protection foam added Image Unavailable, Please Login exterior rear window trim tabs needed paint removal and local repainting: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
trim clips positioned on the front door Image Unavailable, Please Login door window trims fitted Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login sealant applied to mirror base Image Unavailable, Please Login mirrors fitted Image Unavailable, Please Login rear body trim is quite complex with a combination of vertical clips on the window area and sliding pads in the pillar zone that need to be tightened from the engine bay side once the trim is on place: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
