328 Euro '86 starts then seems to drop a bank

Before condemning the module, check the wiring. Aged cars sometimes lose insulation on wires and things start arcing. Check at curves and near bolts/metal objects that are grounded.

 

First, check if you are losing a bank of ignition, or not, during the bad running with a spark tester.

If the ignition is not the trouble and a US version, check if the frequency valve buzzes/vibrates when running OK, and doesn't buzz/vibrate during the bad running (if so = something probably not right with the Protection Relay operation).

 

Also a good idea to check the bank temperature. If you don't have a laser gun, just try to hold your hand above the exhaust manifolds (just to be clear and avoid any confusion due to my so-so English: do not touch the manifold!). If the bank is running you can feel the heat. By contrast if the manifolds are dead cold you know there is something wrong. If one bank works and not the other one, chances are you are facing an ignition issue. Keeping a spare ignition module would be a good idea.

As far as injection is concerned, If the injectors o-rings are not dry, it's easy to remove the injectors, place them in small jar, lift the k-jet disc and validate that all cylinders do receive an equal amount of fuel (my k-jet is 6-cyl updraught whereas your is 8-cyl downdraught, but you get the idea).

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The difference between 124273 and 143413 is:

124273 is the coil and the power module. The coil has 1/4" spade connectors. Each bank uses its own 124273. This is used on 328 and early TR.

143413 is the coil and the power module. The coil has a 4 pin molded plastic connector. Each bank uses its own 143413. AFAIK, this is only used on later TR.

You would buy whichever one matches what you have now. You can see pictures of each at https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk (just search there using each part number). You can also do a search here using those part numbers and probably get some threads/information about how to source the coil and the power module separately, but less expensively, from non-F suppliers.

 

Any reason that you can't just look at the coil connections on your car to determine which type you have? (The online 328 F SPC documentation doesn't match Brian's statement so please report back as I'd like to know for my notes. I did save a photo of a 328 coil assembly that another FChatter had posted showing the spade connectors ala 124273, but I didn't put the version in the file name.)

 

Those look like the 124273 coil with the spade connectors to me -- that look like this (if you remove the connectors with the yellow and red wires for the coil primary winding from the bottom):
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The 143413 coil looks like this where the yellow and red wires for the coil primary winding are all in a single 4-pin connector:

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(Your first photo is the wiring/connector to the power module -- that is the same on both 124273 and 143413.)