Secondary air pump system on Testarossa

Actually, I was curious about this too...

Replacing the alternator belt on a tr is a pain the a**. I figured that if it ever happened in the middle of a cornfield, I could just slice off the aircon belt and the airpump belt, and replace the alternator belt in situ...

There are a lot of posts on here about cats, and their removal. But not a lot of folks taking the pump off. That has to be worth some ponies, no?

 

the air pump in my 308 is disconnected. supposedly, yes, it should give a couple extra ponies. i've never driven with it in place, so i can't compare before/after.

john

 

The pump only runs for a few minutes when the motor is cold so it costs Zero HP.

Lots of TR's are running around with either the belt off or the clutch wire disconnected or both because so many of them sieze up.

 

One (minor) reason for not removing the air injection pump on a TR is that the cats (if present) will tolerate the added enrichment during cold-running a little better with that system working.

 

91TR has an excellent point...I never thought about that. I removed the pump and all it's associated plumbing from my TR. I kept everything together and complete just in case I have to reinstall it. And in reference to 91TR's point about the cats coping with the rich cold-running / warm-up time...my car does not have cats either. But that definately is something to keep in mind when disabling the pump or removing it. Oh...I also made up some block-off plates for the parts at the bottom of the heads where the air is "injected". It really cleans up the lower engine bay without all that hardware in the way, and shaves a few pounds of the heavy Testarossa too.

 

My car was missing all that stuff when I bought it. All seems ok-car runs fine, and I still have the factory exhaust(for now)

 

Hello Everyone,

I need your help on my 1989 Testarossa. I removed the aftermarket exhaust and replaced with the OEM exhaust since the aftermarket exhaust was too loud for my taste. Now the engine is dogging and a few seconds delay when I try to take off. Question: Should I put the secondary pump belt on? The belt was missing when I bought the car 10 years ago. Or what should I do from here. And should the O2 sensors be connected? I am not a mechanic. I can only do basic stuffs. Of course I could put the aftermarket exhaust back on but unfortunately I sold it years ago. Thank you very much my Ferrari brothers & sisters!

 

you have a testarossa with KE jetronic ( year 1989 ) ?
the O2 sensors you may connect of course
what you understand under "dogging and a few seconds delay" ? can you please describe

 

Romano, hesitation or flat spot.

 

As Turbo-Joe says....connect the 02 sensors, so the fuel system gets feedback and makes adjustments, etc. Make sure you connect the left hand sensor to the left hand cylinder bank, etc....you don't want the 02 sensors swapped left-to-right, or the fuel injection ECU's will adjust based on wrong inputs.

 

So you've:
1. had this problem for many years (started when the exhaust was changed), or
2. the car ran OKish for some years after the exhaust was changed, and this problem just started recently, or
3. it's had this problem consistently starting after the last time a Mechanic supposedly tweaked it up into proper running condition?

 

I believed option #1 after I switched to the OEM exhaust system. But once the RPM crawl up say...4k then the power is SUPER strong! A mechanic suggested that I check the timing. I have never checked timing ever since I bought it. Q/A: Is timing requires one for each of the 6 cylinders?

 

So my assumption is that the car ran fine when it had the aftermarket exhaust installed, with the 02 sensors disconnected. if so...it's likely that the fuel injection system was set up to cope the better flowing exhaust and the lack of 02 sensor feedback. Now going back to the original exhaust system, with 02 sensors connected, and NO other changes to the car - perhaps the fuel injection system needs to be adjusted.

 

+1 -- but just having the O2 sensors disconnected when the aftermarket system was installed is a big red flag IMO that there may have been other issues going on. Certainly, (without tweaking anything) just measuring the voltages on the single output wires of the O2 sensors (relative to ground) at warm idle both unplugged and when plugged in can give a lot of information about what might be going on on each bank. At warm idle (no air injection):

1. When unplugged, the voltage on the single output wire of each O2 sensor should be something like 0.6~0.8 VDC (i.e., a little richer than stoichiometric) and maybe wiggle around a little but not much (open-loop operation).

2. When plugged in, the voltage on the single output wire of each O2 sensor should be "wandering" between the boundaries 0.1~0.2VDC (lean) and 0.8~0.9VDC (rich) every couple-few seconds (closed-loop operation).

However, your point about making sure that each O2 sensor is connected to the correct corresponding injection ECU is vitally important:

1. The single output wire from the O2 sensor mounted in the 7-12 bank exhaust stream must be connected to pin 8 of the forwardmost injection ECU.

2. The single output wire from the O2 sensor mounted in the 1-6 bank exhaust stream must be connected to pin 8 of the rearmost injection ECU.

3. The 2-pin heater connections to the O2 sensors can be connected to either one (doesn't matter).

 

I guess I will try to disconnect the O2 sensors this weekend and see how it drives. Then I will measure the voltage on both sensors and also check the wires to the ECUs. Thank you Steve!!