hard gear changes on a 88 testarossa

The Agip turns to water and does not lubricate when hot and the Shell is just never a good lubricant.

 

Sounds like a throw bearing and or clutch pressure plate.

R

 

I second that!

 

Please change the clutch plate and the pressure plate. The pressure plate is located on the top of the clutch plate.

 

They added a splined slip coupling on the input shaft to the gearbox so you don't have to take the trasfer gears apart -- but I don't if doing it that way requires more disassembly of the coachwork/bumper/exhaust behind the transfer gear case to have more clearance to slide the whole "pumpkin" further backwards.
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Just had a Kevlar clutch put in...works great!

 

I’m experiencing nearly identical symptoms as the OP (I know this is an old thread). Clutch has very little miles on it. So I don’t think it’s that. It feels like a bushing in the shifter.

car off clutch in or out it’s not smooth. First sometimes has to be forced pretty hard in. Car on clutch in. Same results. But slow deceleration goes into first totally smooth.

 

Doesn't that just mean that someone has recently mucked with everything related to the clutch, and it hasn't worked very well since . Seriously, I'd do some basic things first like review what brand/type gear oil was used, check the gear oil level, and ensure that the clutch circuit is properly bled. One functional test that you can try is with the car on a level surface (with room in front of it), 1st gear selected, clutch pedal depressed, brake pedal not pressed, and emergency brake off -- then crank the starter motor. If the coachwork lurches forward = clear sign that the clutch system is not disengaging well. Otherwise, things like ensuring the two rubber bushings in the shift rod assembly haven't degraded, and taking off the sidecover to see if the adjustment is, or isn't, good (as Brian previously posted) are the next (but more difficult) diagnostic steps. Good Hunting!

 

Thank you sir!

 

No trouble -- easy enough to type some words on a keyboard . Please do let us know what eventually had to be done to get it sorted. When you say "very little miles", is it the original clutch that has never been molested at all, or was the clutch assembly recently replaced/refreshed?

 

I’ll need to check exact records. But I believe it was changed about 2k miles ago during a major service in ‘17

car has 11k miles on it (ive put on a little over 300 since I got it last week, I don’t let **** sit )

 

Good for you! I've also used my TR as a dry weather daily driver (even as my go to work commuting car when I was doing that), and have really enjoyed doing so.

Needing a new clutch at only 9K miles seems a little suspicious (unless really abused) and may have been the wrong fix applied to the problem -- Brian's comments in post #14 about "Has it ever been OK?" and new TRs needing readjustment are a little ominous. Don't have anything else to add myself, but always interested to learn what the trouble was and how it gets resolved.

 

I have used both Shell and Agip in my 91. It shifts well after the bushings in the linkage were replaced and the side cover removed to align the mechanism.

Maybe neither Shell nor Agip were the best choice for the gearbox.

So what IS the suggested oil?

 

Only slightly less unanswerable than asking "When should I change my timing belts"? Here's one recent thread with some discussion on the subject:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/best-gear-oil-for-512tr-still-redline.642125/#post-147905811

On a F model with a hypoid diff gear (like TR/512TR), I certainly would only use a GL5 rated oil (and not a only GL4 rated oil) regardless of brand.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I always use GL5 on the TR. Unfortunately most brands mentioned in the thread are not available where I live. Will try to find 10 litres of Motul, if they carry it.

 

Anyone happen to have anything that references the bushings in the shifter? It def feels like a bushing is binding or linkage is off. Clutch doesn’t appear to show any signs of slippage.