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delayed start

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by rob lay, Dec 14, 2021.

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  1. rob lay

    rob lay Administrator
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    Dec 1, 2000
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    sorry off topic, but this is the best place to ask for my 2012 Toyota Tundra. starting a few months ago my key turn start delays a little, but so far has turned over every time.

    is this an obvious symptom that points to battery, coil, or starter?

    I've thought about taking the battery into auto store for test, but won't waste time if it is coil or starter. No other signs weak battery, doesn't matter if it has sit for 2 weeks or I just drove it hours on the highway (obviously alternator fine) it behaves exactly the same with key turn plus no dim lights etc.

    You turn the key and now just a little delay and then it seems like a struggle to turnover, but always has so far. Not necessarily getting worse over last 2 months.
     
  2. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
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    Measure voltage ..resting and starting and running and report back

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
  3. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
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    I would also check voltage drop when cranking.

    If your car is diesel, there are quite a few pre-heating components that do not last forever. A relay made my cold mornings miserables for several weeks...
     
  4. rob lay

    rob lay Administrator
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    it is just the Tundra V8.
     
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    How old is the battery?
     
  6. rob lay

    rob lay Administrator
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    who knows, 2-3+. also not my DD, so goes a week at time without driving.
     
  7. JTSE30

    JTSE30 F1 Rookie

    Oct 1, 2004
    3,251
    Austin TX
    CCA probably getting too low (on the battery)(cold cranking amps), sounds like it is marginal, best to replace the battery, suggestion: batteries plus (if you have one in your area) they will change it for you and they can test it too before changing, no fee, nice and simple

    {and no amount of charging it going to help if CCA is marginal, it means the cells are going bad}
     
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  8. PaulK

    PaulK F1 Rookie
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    Apr 24, 2004
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    I would start with this first. It sounds like a discharged battery. Go with the cheapest and easiest solution first. If the battery is in good condition and is fully charged you can then go into measuring the starter draw (in amps) or voltage drop.

    Please note that this is for Ferrari technical discussion and since this thread is about a Toyota I will have to report this thread to the moderators. :p
     
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  9. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Never good for extending battery life. One thing beyond the diagnostic voltage measurements that Dominick mentioned would be to measure the parasitic current draw at rest (but since it has been starting after a week of disuse, you probably don't have a serious issue there, but any added electronic stuff might have increased it a little). You may be caught between the trade-off of messing with a battery tender or just replacing the battery more often than is typical.
     
  10. WaltP

    WaltP Formula 3

    Nov 1, 2003
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    I'm thinking bad battery.
    I just took a battery in to NAPA that measured 12.5-13 volts to be tested, they have a tool that can measure CCA and it was only 300 where is should have been 1425 CCA
     
  11. rob lay

    rob lay Administrator
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    yep, I never thought about CCA, I just thought if battery wasn't dead after 1+ weeks sitting and no dim lights, then it probably wasn't.
     
  12. Extreme1

    Extreme1 Formula 3

    Jun 27, 2017
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  13. rob lay

    rob lay Administrator
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    although no problems starting or running, battery test showed so low it couldn't complete, so I just put in a new battery. actually haven't had many slow start problems the last couple days with it 70-80 degrees. have a cold front coming tomorrow, so that will be the real test. thanks everyone!
     
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  14. rob lay

    rob lay Administrator
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    well getting a new battery hasn't helped the symptoms at all, so wasn't battery related.

    I've also noticed the last few days where we've had a range in temps from 28 to 80 degrees that it isn't cold related. Truck sat outside all last night 28 degrees and actually turned over a little easier.

    I'll try to get a video of the start.
     
  15. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    Nov 1, 2005
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    Time for a new starter. Might first check and clean the grounds and starter solenoid connection and make sure there is nothing badly corroded. The new battery was probably necessary to rule that out, sometimes batteries going bad can still bench test ok.
     
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  16. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

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    ,+1

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
  17. rob lay

    rob lay Administrator
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    fuel pump!
     
  18. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

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    Rob

    Unfortunately your description of not turning over let us think the rpm of the engine was slow and 0 for a few seconds .. not that the engine was turning and not starting which would have been a fuel issue

    Did I misunderstand..or did the fuel pump issue manifest itself in a weird way

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
  19. rob lay

    rob lay Administrator
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    I don't know, but I do remember now 60k miles ago having a similar issue with the exact same symptoms. I believe the southern bound Tundras get a different fuel pump than the colder weather states. If not on this 2nd gen Tundra, they did on the 1st gens.
     
  20. rob lay

    rob lay Administrator
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    so I'm starting to suspect that the new fuel pump didn't solve the problem.

    It was $1,400, so a little pissed if dealer was just throwing parts at it like an amateur.

    Can you properly diagnose a fuel pump issue on a 2012 Tundra, flow gauge etc? Doesn't it sound like based on symptoms and new battery that tech just assumed it was fuel pump?
     
  21. Turbopanzer

    Turbopanzer F1 World Champ

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    Pressure test at fuel rail. Check fuel flow. Possible restricted fuel filter.
     
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  22. rotaryrocket7

    rotaryrocket7 Formula Junior

    Dec 7, 2011
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    So is the issue?
    1- Turn key and no starter spinning right away or
    2- Turn key, starter spins, but engine doesn't fire right away?

    For #1 - electronic, solenoid, relay would be the likely guess
    For #2 - Fuel pump, leaky injectors (if the car sits for a while and then has the issue i would think it could be this), or fuel filter is possible but less likely. Usually a fuel pump going bad will show up at speed before it shows hard starting problems. Could also be a bunch of other electronic stuff as well if the computer isn't getting a signal from something it needs (Crank position sensor) right away
     
  23. rob lay

    rob lay Administrator
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    Nothing noticeable is going on turn key, just silence and then varying delay before it kicks right on.
     
  24. JP365

    JP365 Formula 3

    Mar 8, 2007
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    I had that happen with a Toyota Sienna. Insert key turn, nothing. Turn back forth and then it would start. The ignition switch had worn out. My mother -in -law had a similar problem with her Buick. Keys had to be reprogrammed and a new theft deterrent module installed. Have you tried different keys?
     
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  25. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    There can also be another switch in the brake/brake pedal system -- i.e., the starter motor won't engage unless the system "thinks" you have the brake pedal pressed down. Don't know if that applies to your particular truck, but many ICEVs have this safeguard.
     
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