328 headlights pop up then shut down,

I have an 81 308 that was doing that it wasn't the relay it was in the turn signal switch, the solder came undone and the quickfix was to re-solder. I believe there is a link on this Web site, Birdman's web site, or it was on YouTube on how to make the fix. I fix mine about five years ago.


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Have a look on autodoc.co.uk. and they list your bosch relay but out of stock- they give a list of other makes and numbers. Used on merc or alfa. hella 4RD 007 794-021. or Meat+ Doria 73233331 plus lots others

 

That Tyco relay would be fine, but, for a test, just temporarily put another Bosch 0332204101 (from another function) in that relay position to see if it fixes the problem. Also, Bosch 0332209151 would be Bosch's more modern replacement for their 0332204101. These are not "exotic" relays.

 

The relays are on the motors, and theres an End Of Line resistor IIRC that can also cause the "winking", if bad??

The fact they are working together leads me to guess it's not the relays themselves.
But I don't know.

 

Right, it's almost certainly something in the circuit that is common to both sides...like the stalk switch. Need to trace the entire circuit using the diagrams to see where the likely culprit(s) are. Don't forget to check the circuit's ground connections, which if not secure can cause electrical weirdness.

 

If the relay doesn't help, and you end up opening the steering column to have a look at the switch assembly, inspect carefully for cracks in the plastic. My car suddenly developed winking headlights after I was out of country for a number of months, and having a friend occasionally drive it. He is an excellent old European car mechanic, but more used to getting in and out of Porsches than Ferrari and Fiats, so it turns out he hit the stalk switch with his knee at some point and cracked the base. That crack allows spring tension inside the stalk detent to distort the brass contacts, causing both sides of the circuit (up and down) to get power. Replacing the entire switch assembly was onerously expensive, so I experimented with cutting a little of the spring inside the switch off to reduce tension (figuring it cost me nothing to try a quick fix on a broken component) and epoxying the crack. That was . . . about four years ago, and my "quick fix" is still working, if only at temperatures above ~50F. Below that, I need to let the switch "warm up" with current applied to the hi-beam position for about 30 seconds, and then it is good-to-go.

I do plan on replacing the entire switch assembly at some point, but am looking at the possibility of remanufacturing just the plastic part itself out of 3D printed material for added shock resistance.

Oh, and one more note: there are several small spring-loaded ball bearings in the switch assembly. They WILL shoot across your garage and probably get lost while you are disassembling or re-assembling things. Fortunately, I was able to acquire a lifetime supply at my local sporting good store. Standard issue .177 caliber 4.5mm zinc-plated steel BBs. Bought 2000. Used 2.

 

We have a member here that remolds the plastic in superior modern manterial, reusing the internals.

The old one is very delicate at this point.

 

Switches can be rebuilt with a new plastic pivot end molded on the stalk.

Contact Verell at unobtainiumsupply.com

 

report back your findings please