Suspension Control System Failure message

Batteries need to cycle some, always being 'topped off' is not the best. For instance, plug in for a few days, unplug for a week, repeat.

12.1 is low, should be 13 or higher while driving (check against any modern car that shows voltage...)

Rule of thumb, every 3 years put in new 12v battery and new key fob battery, even early model year 2019's are now 3 years old.

 

14.2 is a very healthy battery

Ram TRX?

 

Had the same thing with my Lusso a few months ago. Drove it a few times and it cleared up….Sounds like the dealer should take a look though…


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Keep us posted, but I bet it's the battery.

 

sounds like alternator. with normal driving, my F12 voltage fluctuates from 14v (idle) to 14.5v (normal driving). If it's at a dealership, I'm sure they'll take a look at the alternator with your provided story.

yea i agree with the above replies. your suspension error is most likely from the low voltage.

 

When I start mine up and it's cold I get multiple failures. I had to start and stop it three or four times before I could clear all the errors. It happens because the computers don't all come up and report in to the main one fast enough. Computers run slower in the cold and faster in the heat, that's a fact.

 

A lower voltage from the battery to that computer could also be the culprit as the others have noted. I notice that if I go more than a week without starting the car that it does have some issues irrespective of temperature. Not as many errors but it doesn't start right up and may throw a few engine errors. Mostly they will go away with restarts.

I got it back from service on the .rear windshield back in November and it was a nice sunny day. When I started the car it had an engine control failure so I restarted it twice and it didn't clear. I showed it to the service manager and he said what I just mentioned about the timing of the computers and to restart it again which on the fourth time, did the trick.

 

That seems like a mix of unrelated issues. Ferrari states that the F12 has an 'intelligent' alternator and others have posted in the past similar 12.x volt readings. Not sure what year your 812 but they ship with crappy batteries and wouldn't be surprised if the battery is involved even though it may have passed the service test. Assuming your car is within the 3 year warrantee perhaps they would just as well let it go if it were borderline and then its on you to replace in a year or so.

 

Great. Be advised that the two year re-up goes quickly so don't pass-up a chance to get things sorted as soon as they come up. I'm thinking based on your history you are going to need a new battery in that time frame. I think the newer MYs don't do oil and filter changes annually and are based on an algorithm.

 

Happened to me today. I had to move my car out of the garage for a remodel. Damn if I forgot to plug it in a couple of weeks ago................

Fortunately I did not have to jump it. The 812 started time/sequence-wise as normal on the first try. But by the starter sound I could tell the battery was clearly weak. I had just about every imaginary warning light go off- shocks, manettino, parking brake, etc.

I called & service guy told me that is not unexpected (as noted) and that the warning lights will/should all reset once the battery is fully charged. Now he did ask if I jumped it, so maybe a threshold is there for hard resets. IIRC I had to do one with my F12 but I've drank and slept since then.

Regardless, he also told me to drive it for an hour as the alternator is weak and will not charge as well at idle. Then plug it in and all will be well again.

I drove it for an hour. Parked it outside without the tender for another hour or so and then when I restarted it, 'twas as if nothing had ever happened- no warning lights, back to normal.

FYI the engine load dropped the voltage by nearly 1 volt- in the 13.3-5(ish)V as I was accelerating which jumped to 14.3(ish)V when I took my foot off the loud pedal. Now I did take him to heart and was cruising in the 110-120 mph (141 max) range so YMMV.

I just love that car...

 

wow. well I'm glad you got it sorted! I gotta say this is where standard car knowledge just sorta fails. is that the one that's attached to the suspension arm via the short metal connector or the one that's hard mounted to the body? I was always curious what the hard mounted body connector was for.