348 Engine repair thread

Decided to clean up the rear shocks while I wait for the control arms from the powder coater, new end bushings, new springs, new rubber sleeves, new studs, new hardware, new collars and new pillow blocks.

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The old Springs had red mark the new ones have yellow mark. Same part number. I assume its a slight difference in measured rating and grouped for similarity.

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Check the GB ring nut behind the inspection panel. Sometimes Ferrari did not stake them and the GB subsequently fails. Notice it is staked on both sides. Replace panel with me o-ring seal#131747. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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New Hill TOB flange and TOB bearing. Also new triple seals went in at same time. The original Valeo TOB unot in there was a bit scratchy and to be honest next to the hill unit it resembled a cheap toy. Quite chincy really. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Side by side. The original one is basically thin pot metal.

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Had a machine shop turn this little press ring (got 3 of them) out of 1018. It fits super snug you have to knock it on off lightly with a wrench. It ensures when you're pushing you're not pushing the lip of the bushing rather pushing against the vertical surface that slides into the control arm. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Freshened shock back in with upper bushings. Sway bar was powder coated and got new bushings. Getting that shock back on even with springs compressed was a mofo for 1 person had to unbolt the lower arm and the hug was free, trying to manage that while lining up shock and arm bolts and floor jack, ha ha what a clown show that was. I dreading the other side.

Oh yes don't forget to grease the bushing ends and bolts.

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Heard from shop, heads may be ready within next 2 weeks, they guys back log is insane. I'll post picks of the factory fresh heads when I get them.

 

The WORST, cutting the bushes out.

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I got the call heads are ready. Fully machined, new valve guides machines/honed, new seals, multi angle valve job, valve clearances set per factory, deck surface machined imperceptibly to ensure straightness, all assembly assembly lubed up, shims and buckets cam caps etc. Fully prepped ready to go.

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All turned over on spacers to protect the valves from touching the workbench, ready for inspection, verification, torque check etc etc Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Timing gear pliers to rotate the cams as needed.
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OK my cam seal housing did not have the drain relief, but O have a large box of endmills from my old mill prior to coast to coast move. So stick it on a mini press with a cross slide, probably need 1/8 end mill but I do not have any that small except ball end ones.

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Then its cam seal time, I had some left over 1x3 rectangle tube so I cut a chunk off and cut off the top and took a grinder to give a little curve relief, very imprecise but its no matter.. The housing fits right in there, clamp it in a vise, take the $7 harbor freight seal puller, give it a yank or 2 and they come right out.

I then got this box of press sleeves, press one side in to seat it all the way flush, then flip it and grab another sleeve of different size and press it home.

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The new pulleys are pretty good the problem is the original police had very thin retaining wall. Mine failed because of the weld tacking the pulley is very bad advice. That said I know of two other cars were the pulley has failed where it wasn't taxed the difference is the entire ring came off. They however did not lose an engine like I did.

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I need to remove the cams to put on the cam seals I want to do it on the workbench and get the timing marks lined up and then put the assemble heads on the engine. To do that I had to put some blocks 2 per side on my quick wood jig so the heads don't move, and the valves don't touch the workbench.

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And the two sides are now linked together with the Cross beam so I have lateral stability as well. No tipping. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Cam cap washers are part #11197774 , they are a Bellville type, that is they have a concave to them to maintain pressure. The old ones were crushed flat. Replace them. Ensure the cam cap numbers lie up and are the numbers are facing the same direction, if you put them on backwards the numbers will be backwards. Make sure the cam seal housing oil drain relief is lined up with the oil drain hole, mark is as it will be a blind operation when the cam is in the seal housing. Don't forget assembly lube. When tightening the cam caps down use light oil on the threads and its easier to feel with a nut driver, usually one piston sometimes 2 will have lobes under spring tension, you want to bring the cam down evenly and crisscross pattern incrementally, don't jam down one cap full tight at a time you'll see the cam flexes a lot when you do that. Manual says 7.7nm torque.