430 - 430 Scuderia Maintenance - What Else? | FerrariChat

430 430 Scuderia Maintenance - What Else?

Discussion in '360/430' started by RonScuderia, Jan 22, 2022.

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  1. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    Hi all, my first post. Any advice as to what else to do in the engine bay while I have this access? The rear is on stands, undertray, diffuser and bumper are off, wheels and wells off/out. Air box/inlets are out, and exhaust from cats-back is out.

    I want to resolve all issues that a potential buyer would have. I’ve got the time and most of the tools (including a Launch X431 with Ferrari V11), but only plan to spend on parts that would (mostly) make a difference in a sale.

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    Background: I bought my 2008 430 Scuderia in 2011 with about 6500 miles. I used it for HPDE and club rallies for a few years and had it serviced by one, than another, of my local dealers. It has sat, now with 19,9XX miles on it, for a few years in my heated garage. As far as I know, the car is stock (other than an aftermarket stereo amp and speakers). Watching prices, and knowing that I have some time this winter I decided I’d do some maintenance myself and see what it might take to get it ready for possible sale. I’d never worked on this car but I have on others (non-Ferrari).

    What I’ve done so far (with a lot of cleaning along the way):

    - Using an “F430 30K Service Kit” from Ricambi, changed the air filters, spark plugs, serpentine belt, and oil/filter (including the screen and large C-clip in the rear sump). Then I changed the Gear Oil – putting in a new drain plug with crush washer and new O-ring on the filter (which had a little white RTV sealant on the screen).​

    - F1: Replaced the Accumulator. Flushed the fluid (first bleeding the clutch actuator thru the union in the block in front of the RH axle, then thru the union up on the sub-chassis in front of the F1 Reservoir). Next, took the gear Actuator off (the 3 bleed screws were tight) and “bled” that, followed by a self-learn. I will be replacing the F1 Relay (along with many others) once I get the car off the stands.​

    - As I clean up the exhaust, I am replacing the gaskets from the headers to the cats and those long bolts connecting them as well.​

    Motor mounts seem to be good.

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    The clutch. Launch X431 says clutch use is at 65%. Is it fair to assume that, to a buyer, a clutch usage of 5% would be worth more than the parts cost? I’ve never replaced a clutch before, is it something I can do myself and if so, what else would I need (tools/parts/etc) besides the Ricambi clutch kit? I can get a little help when removing/reinstalling the trans, but other than that, it’s just me..

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    I have no reason to remove the exhaust manifolds, but I feel like replacing any header-to-block nuts/studs that I have pretty easy access to (to make someone’s job in the future a little easier). From what I can see so far, none are broken off, and I had no sign of exhaust leakage before, but this might concern a knowledgeable buyer (warping manifold flange):

    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/430-scuderia-broken-exhaust-manifold-head-studs.600849/

    Should I try to take them off and see what’s up?

    What else in the engine bay (the rest of the car comes later)?
     
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  2. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,662
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    Definitely a clutch would be a resale idea .. at 65 percent you getting pretty up there and any ppi will say it needs to be replaced and will quote 10k or more

    A skilled mechanic can do the whole job in less than 8 or so hours given parts are at hand

    Look for the ratrossa video ..he changed it on a 360 so you get an idea


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  3. greyboxer

    greyboxer F1 World Champ

    Dec 8, 2004
    12,309
    South East
    Full Name:
    Jimmie
    Ten years lurker - congratulations !

    Up the top is a section summarising the technical threads - pretty sure clutch replacement is covered there if not in several previous threads

    You may also get useful some hints off voicey's uk site
     
  4. Ferrarista98

    Ferrarista98 Formula Junior
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jan 7, 2018
    258
    Full Name:
    Jason L
    Congrats on taking this on! Can't wait to hear how the journey goes.
     
  5. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    Thanks guys. I have seen Ratarossa's videos and been trying to watch and read what I can,

    I was suspicious when I saw this white "X" near the left-side rear-most exhaust manifold nut. I gave it a turn and, well, it was in there about a turn. Seems like I'm gonna be removing the manifolds and, along with checking out the flanges, be replacing the gaskets, studs and nuts.

    The real mystery is who put that white "X" there knowing it was a broken stud?

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  6. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    17,938
    USA
    The broken exhaust manifold studs are common on the 430 Scuderia. The cause is the exhaust manifold flange warped, breaking the stud. You probably noticed a ticking noise upon cold start?
    When you get the exhaust manifold off, have it checked for flatness and replace all the studs (others may be weakened and stretched), just to be sure (new gaskets too). I had this performed by "Windsock" on my 430 Scuderia several years ago. They had the flange ground flat and its been fine since. He's posted here that he's done dozens of them now, and they don't appear to warp again...so one and done.
     
  7. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    Thanks F355Spider. I was aware of the warped manifold issue (I referenced one of the threads above).

    I just got the left exhaust manifold off (I work a little slow for lots of reasons). Luckily no busted knuckles, but the most stubborn were the the hex bolts connecting the air injection to the manifold (which apparently does not exist on the F430).

    As suspected, it's "warped" (bowed) in the front-back direction (at least). You can see that if i hold a straight edge tight to the first to pipes, it is about 2mm away from the outside edge of the fourth.

    Top of manifold, front to the right.
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    But that bolt has been broken for many years/thousands of miles - that's the last time a tech could have been anywhere near that (and put the white "X" there indicating it was broken, but not doing anything about it.) I have never noticed a ticking sound (cold or not) in this car.

    Oh well, time to send a PM to "Windsock". Anyone else have a contact for someone to machine/belt sand my manifolds flat?

    I've got all new studs, nuts and gaskets on the way, time to get the right side off...
     
  8. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    17,938
    USA
    You can probably find a machine shop near you that is qualified. The question is finding the right shop.
     
  9. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    I'll look around, thanks Any one have any idea what a reasonable price for machining/belt-sanding the flanges would be?
     
  10. one4torque

    one4torque F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    May 20, 2018
    5,119
    Houston
    Full Name:
    One4torque
    I had my 360 ex header flanges decked at a machine shop it was $117
     
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  11. Scottslaw

    Scottslaw Formula Junior

    Nice work Ron. Tedious job but well worth it in terms of piece of mind (been there done that...not a fun job). I have Capistro headers and they were still flat thank goodness, so I suspect my studs were broken (three broken studs on one side) at the time of header replacement, and the shop/owner was too lazy/cheap/rushed to extract them at that time. I love my Capistros but with the larger tubing diameters, getting wrenches in the tight confines was really not fun.
     
  12. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    Thanks, I now know what it takes so I appreciate the compliment! I got the right exhaust manifold off earlier today - same warped/bowed issue by my non-scientific measurement - but no studs broken on that side at all.

    But... I broke off one hex socket-cap screw from the tube feeding/into the air injection rail, and stripped out the other (2nd pic). Since I was able to get the other end of the tube off, I figure I can have them drilled out by whoever machines the flange.

    Therein lies the problem. I made a couple of phone calls based on a "Machine Shop" Google search and I'm told "geez, no one 'round here does that any more". I even brought one of the manifolds into my local auto parts guy asking if he knew of any one - he suggested G&L Auto Machine in Boonton NJ. Sent them pictures and they can't (or won't) help and told me "geez, no one 'round here does that any more". I'm gonna keep trying, including some local service stations.

    Does the manifold gasket's "bump" face the manifold or the block? I'm fairly certain my old ones were "bump" facing manifolds.

    In the last picture, I'm installing the new studs.

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  13. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
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  14. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    So this weekend I’ll be taking my exhaust manifolds to a business that says they can machine the flanges flat. Fingers crossed.

    Meantime I just tackled that little nightmare in the back of my head about the one broken off stud I have. Luckily, it was the rear-most stud on the left side – relatively easy access. I center-punched it then used a left-handed drill bit and went in about 13mm from the surface. I tapped in the extractor tool and used an adjustable to turn it. Whew, problem solved.

    And to answer my own question, the exhaust manifold gaskets can only go on one-way.

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  15. Extreme1

    Extreme1 Formula 3

    Jun 27, 2017
    1,222
    Santa Clarita, CA
    It never works like that for me!!


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  16. Scottslaw

    Scottslaw Formula Junior

    Nice work. If I would have known you hadn't already removed the stud I would have sent you this little manifold drill guide I bought. Its like this: https://www.mile-x.com/otc-6982dgs-drilling-guide-system/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA9OiPBhCOARIsAI0y71CbHp9NyctOBNyFx4EHqEmfh0qgFACsA29nunS7CHHsj9ZvrUScqVcaAmg2EALw_wcB

    It basically guarantees that you drill your hole dead-on center. Given the tight confines and risks of an off-center hole (and my historically bad luck drilling out stuck/stripped bolts), I took no chances! By they way, your exhaust ports looked way nicer than mine!
     
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  17. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    Hey, thanks for that link – I hadn’t seen those (mostly shopping on Amazon for tools). I did see a video just before I started drilling where a guy made his own set using bolts drilled out with a drill press. If there’s a next time (hope not!), I can try to make my own first.

    Once I knew the bit was in the center-punch divot, I was thinking/hoping geometry would be on my side. I checked a couple of times from the back and top as I was going in. Yes I was off, but managed not to break through the sidewall of the stud.

    As fort the ports – good old’ Gumout and a little elbow grease!
     
  18. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    I know I said the engine mounts “seem to be good” but what the hell do I know? They are old. I just got a set of Ferrari’s 190255 for wholesale and so since I’m down here, I'm making this a non-issue.

    I just got a new transmission jack (I’m still debating whether to try to change the clutch myself) I’m using that to lift the engine while I change the mounts. Torqueing the four-per-side 17mm bolts to 50Nm and the large 24mm to 98Nm.

    If anyone could double-check those torque numbers, I’d appreciate it. I got a WSM on-line version and it’s a PIA.

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  19. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    I'm looking for opinions, though I think I know what's gonna end up happening. Valve cover and spark plug gaskets - no real noticeable build-up around them but should I go ahead and change them while I've got a bit a space?

    It seems the half-moons are actually part of the gasket.

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  20. Scottslaw

    Scottslaw Formula Junior

    I changed my gaskets while I was in there...but....mine were leaking. It is a major pain to get the new gasket seated 100% correctly because you can't actually see/feel some parts on the far edge. My take is that if you are not leaking you have a greater risk of inducing a leak by a mis-aligned valve cover gasket. I actually ended up using a high temp engine sealing adhesive to get the valve cover gasket to stay seated and "in the channel," but it was a fiddly job. I'd leave alone (unless leaking). And yes, the half moons are part of the gasket. As for the spark plugs, no risk there so I'd do it now!
     
  21. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    Thanks Scott, I really appreciate the feedback. I read thru your entire "My 60k-Mile" thread, it's pretty much a guide for what I'm doing and I learned a bit. I agree that there is a significant risk of making an issue when I'm trying to resolve issues. I do want to keep cleaning things up - like you, whatever comes out goes back in better in some way.

    Regarding the plugs, in my last post I had meant the spark plug gaskets that go along with the valve cover gaskets. Yes, I did change the plugs as one of the very first things.

    Any additional tips on the air intake manifolds and cover? Wanting to clean the Vee and I'll change the gaskets.
     
  22. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    Anyone know if the actuator on the front of the manifold just pops off the ball joint (upper or lower)? I don't see a clip of any sort but I don't want to bust anything.

    This pic is looking in from the right side, into a mirror, at the actuator. Part reference #8 in the diagram.
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  23. Scottslaw

    Scottslaw Formula Junior

    Ron, I ran into the exactly the same issue. I couldn’t get the little ball joint off using what I perceived to be a reasonable out of force, and didn’t want to break it. So instead I detached the base of the actuator thingy from the intake runners as there is a little bolt (as I recall) that holds it on. If you disconnect it at that location you can remove the Plenum and I take and leave the upper joint attached. As for other tips and tricks, I used the aldous voice tutorial on his site m and it worked out great. Not a hard job at all, just lots of stuff to remove. Great work!
     
  24. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
    #24 RonScuderia, Feb 5, 2022
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2022
    Thanks Scott, I have read through many of AVoice's pages, but missed that one. I followed his almost exactly (one or two minor differences for the Scuderia), taking it all out in one piece. Getting everything out was a relative breeze, nothing fell out of my magnet range. I can't wait to thread those manifold nuts back on (not).

    But before that, cleaning, lots and lots of cleaning. And then more cleaning...

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  25. RonScuderia

    RonScuderia Karting

    Jun 29, 2011
    129
    North New Jersey
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