Building a Caterham

First problem: I had assumed there would be a build manual in the items sent. Nope. Assuming this is online- off to find that now. If not, quick email to get one sent to me.

Edit: yep, just a dumbass. The assembly manual is online, which is now downloaded to my computer. Next step- correcting my jack stand placement…

 

Inspiration:

 

You should also post on the USA7s forum. Tons of useful info there.
While I dream about another Ferrari / Porsche / Lotus / Alfa etc. or stepping into a McLaren or Aston the only car that I really must experience is a powerful Super 7 clone.
I used to race formula cars and expect the experience to be similar. I've driven other clones but not at the limit.
Less is more.
I'm negotiating on a built Caterham now although building one would be fun but just don't have the room. I used to be an aircraft mechanic and semi retired so time is not an object. Filling it would be rewarding as a matter of fact.

What a great bonding activity with your son. Hats off.

IMO , even though these things are supposedly flip proof , I'd get a roll bar.

 

BTW your organization is impeccable.
My garage looks like a bomb exploded in it.

 

Doing this project with your kid is what the hobby is all about. Just follow the instructions, take your time, see it through to the end, and enjoy it. Major bonding time and leading by example opportunity too.

 

Thanks. Agree, got the roll bar

 

It’s a mess in there, I just cleared out a space.

 

Minor delay to get a tiny torque wrench. Will get some things done tomorrow.

 

Had my daughter in the game briefly when she was home for a couple days:
There is an untreated board on the back deck, which is also exposed on the underside of the car. Bought some sealant, gave a good coating. No idea why this is not either painted or given some treatment from the factory- easier to do it now vs later.

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Big day: worked from about 9-4:30 with a break for lunch.

Prior to today, I fitted the wishbones. Word of advice - dry fitting them is not a good idea. The tiny amount of surface rust made it an extremely tight/stubborn fit. Once I put on the copper grease (didn’t know that was a thing BTW), things were, much, much easier.

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Got in the steering rack, uprights, headlights, radiator. Oldest son came home from college, so now all 3 have gotten into the action.

I am missing a bracket, or I cannot guess how to properly assemble the radiator/ fan (no instructions for the 420R, like mine). So sent an email and waiting for a response.

There was a warning about the headlights being the most difficult part of the whole build. I got to say, feeding the wires through the bracket into the chassis was a chore- pulling more than I wanted. If only one headlight comes on, I’ll curse for 10 min straight.

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Worst part so far, not kidding.

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Progress so far:

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This is not gonna work:

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Big thanks!- put up a post. Got the answer to the radiator fan issue in a few minutes.

 

Handing tip of the day: the build manual on the Caterham website may not be up to date….

If you are using build manual 1.2, consider using build manual 2.0
Probably going to be a lot easier in the end.

 

If anyone reads this and attempts a build, refer to this:
https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk

 

Excellent work, Christian!

I’ve always wanted to build one.

Matt

 

With the helpful folks at USA7 (thanks @LightGuy), I got the fan sorted.

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Now, trying to sort the routing of the heater cable for a left hand drive car. The RHD manual shows cable coming out of firewall to the right of the battery (same side as steering wheel) with a connection to valve that is aligned to the center of the car.

On my LHD, the cable comes out to the left of the battery, but heater core is not flipped (core is the exact same as RHD), so this seems crazy:
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Problem is leaving cable to the left of the battery (a straight path out of firewall) means the valve is facing the wrong way.

To be continued…

 

So, coincidentally Josh from Rocky Mountain Caterham emailed me to check in, provide some general guidance and offered to give me specific guidance as needed.

Funny you should ask Josh….

According to him, I had diagnosed the problem. And, he suggested 2 options: flip the valve upside down, then cut cable shorter (or he would send me a shorter able) vs drill a hole on the right side to return the cable to the original orientation.

Option 2 seemed best, most simple. So, I just more or less eyeballed a location that mirrored what I had.
Quick check to avoid drilling through the fuse box… job done. It was at this point that I realized that I am more Jeremy Clarkson than James May…

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Job done on the heater core.
Next up plan to mount expansion tank, since I’m drilling holes an all.

 

Is there a grommet or other anti-rub fitting to place into the drilled hole ?
Make absolutely sure you protect whatever goes through it.
Wish I had know about the headlight troubles.
We use "fish tape" and lube to pull wires through conduit. Seems comparable.
PS Take of the Rolex
Saves the watch and the paint.

Depending on your state you may have to go through hell to get it registered.
If they offer an option to register it as an old time 50s-60s Super 7 (rather than as an assembled vehicle ) go for it.
Not only for current registration but when you eventually sell it or transfer to one of your out-of-state kids.
The peeps at USA7s will know the best way.

 

That copper grease is probably anti-seize compound.
You might consider using a small bit when inserting steel fasteners into aluminum fittings / castings.
Over time the dissimilar metal corrosion will "weld" the steel bolts into the aluminum.

 

Cable has metal threads as it goes though the hole- but yes, I get your point as I expect lots of rattle/vibration to wear on everything.

 

What state are you in, Christian?

If you need any help, I've registered and plated an Ariel Atom and a Pur Sang Bugatti. Send me a PM if I can assist.

Matt