F430 loss of electrical power | FerrariChat

F430 loss of electrical power

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by ModerateMike, Apr 10, 2022.

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  1. ModerateMike

    ModerateMike Rookie

    Jul 21, 2017
    43
    NC
    Full Name:
    Mike
    My 2005 F430 suffers periodic total losses of electrical power. Then it spontaneously resolves without me being able to identify the problem. Here's how it happened most recently, 7 months ago:

    -car has total loss of electrical power.
    -battery tender shows an error. A second tender agrees.
    -It's a fresh battery, and bench test shows it's good.
    -ground interrupt switch in the frunk appears to be clean and solid.
    -car sits for a couple weeks until I finally relent and have it towed to dealer
    -car promptly starts upon arrival at dealer.
    -dealer successfully starts car every day for 2 weeks. Cannot replicate problem.

    Everything has been fine until today. Is it possible that the tilting or jostling of the towing process temporarily fixed a flaky connection? Does the anti-theft module have a towing sensor, and perhaps it is failing? I lifted each side of the car with a floor jack, and that didn't do anything. I feel like whatever fault there is must be close to the battery, since the power loss affects the whole car.

    Can anyone suggest a place to start troubleshooting? I'd like to put a meter on the battery, then test each component in line. But I don't have nearly the understanding of the system to design such a procedure. Any ideas would be welcome!
    Best,
    Mike
     
  2. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky F1 World Champ
    Consultant Professional Ferrari Technician

    Sep 18, 2002
    19,387
    The Cold North
    Full Name:
    Tom
    For giggles..by-pass the shut off switch in the frunk. See what happens. I have seen failed shut offs before. Not common..but it does happen.
     
  3. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    11,564
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
    The immobiliser system does have an anti-lift sensor, but it's not going to take power from the whole car.

    If it happens again, disconnect the battery negative and positive leads. Detach any smaller wires on the negative terminal and then check the resistance between the negative terminal and the chassis with the cutoff (ground interrupt) switch not in cutoff. This might be a little easier than getting access to the back of the shutoff switch and shorting it out. If it's open circuit (infinite ohms), then you have a problem with the switch.
     
  4. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    11,564
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
    When you say you have a total loss of power, does this mean you have no interior lights when you open the doors or no parking lights (when you use the pushbutton)?
     
  5. ModerateMike

    ModerateMike Rookie

    Jul 21, 2017
    43
    NC
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Thanks for your input, guys. Here's an update.
    I failed to mention that I had left the car off the tender last week. When under this power failure condition (no lights, no nothing-- totally bricked), plugging in the tender yields an error. Pull the ground interrupt, and the tender works normally.
    So after about 24 hours on the tender, I reinstall the switch, and I have power again. Another buddy mentioned that he's had something similar happen on his 458. He'd heard it was because the F1 system draws so much power, even at rest. And his solution was essentially unplug it and plug it back in.
    I would love to believe that the problem is so boneheadedly simple. But I'm not sure it accounts for previous incidents. And I don't understand why I would need to disconnect the battery in order to charge it. I guess I will start keeping a more thorough log. Thanks again for your help!
     
  6. wmuno

    wmuno Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 24, 2007
    434
    Wilmette, Illinois
    Full Name:
    Bill Muno
    I don't have an answer for your specific problem, but I do have a general comment. On modern cars the computer systems need a constant voltage to keep them happy even when the car is shut down. You are not suppose to remove the battery without having another vlotage source connected, for example, a trickle charger. Does the cutoff switch in your car completely eliminate all power, or is there a provision for some power to remain for the computers? If the computers go dead, this might be the source of some of your problems.
     

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