Ferrari 348 hot start - does not hold the idle | FerrariChat

Ferrari 348 hot start - does not hold the idle

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Teo's348, Apr 12, 2022.

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  1. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
    37
    north of Italy
    Full Name:
    Teo
    Good morning everyone,

    I have a 1993 348TS (front battery)

    I drive my 348 regularly and it has never given me any hot start problems; the additional relay had also been fitted;

    this weekend, after a short ride, I stopped for a break (20 minutes) after which, with the engine still hot, the car struggled to start and as soon as it came on, it was running with only 4 cylinders and (very strange) with the rev counter "dead".

    it didn't keep the idle.

    I waited for an hour and when cold it started regularly with rev counter ok

    according to your experiences what can it be?

    someone told me Vescovini control unit, someone rpm sensors....

    thanks!
     
  2. Ferrari Tech

    Ferrari Tech Formula 3

    Mar 5, 2010
    1,126
    Georgia
    Full Name:
    Wade Williams
    I am guessing bad coil but that is just a guess. It could be the power module for the coil as well. I have used ones that I use for diagnostic work. I have had both coils and power modules fail. Find a quality shop and have it properly diagnosed. You can also swap the components and see where the issue goes and then replace that part.
     
  3. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
    37
    north of Italy
    Full Name:
    Teo
    thank you very much, I know the coils are not particularly hard to find (like lancia thema)

    I've read that starting problems can also come from the rpm sensors, could they also be faulty and cause the tach to die?
     
  4. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Feb 20, 2015
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    Ian Riddell
    The left bank crank sensor is faulty (that's the one on the side of the crank, not the one on the bottom). That will affect the tachometer and give you running problems.

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    Check the connector. Sometimes they break or get contaminated with oil. If you fit a new sensor, make sure that it has the correct clearance from the teeth on the crank.
     
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  5. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
    37
    north of Italy
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    Teo
    Thanks Qavion, I was thinking of something like that too;

    but to change it can you access it from the "bottom inspection hatch" or do you have to disassemble everything? :eek:
     
  6. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    You can get to it from the bottom, but it's still very difficult. The connector should be easy to get to, however. The sensor itself may need some creativity to get to. Watch out for loose shims on the sensor.
     
  7. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
    37
    north of Italy
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    Teo
    I guessed it would take creativity :D because there is the service belt in the way;

    I have to do the annual service so I'll take the opportunity to have it checked down there, but I had the distribution belt done 1 year ago and I don't want to pull the engine down!

    someone also said the catalytic converter units, but I don't think they affect the tach
     
  8. POLO35

    POLO35 Formula Junior

    Feb 21, 2005
    712
    Treasure Coast Florida
    Full Name:
    MATT
    I would say one, or both of your fuel pressure regulators are bad. Very easy to check. Simply check if raw fuel is leaking from the vent at the rear of each regulator.
     
  9. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
    37
    north of Italy
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    Teo
    could you give me a picture of where to look exactly? so i can check it directly
     
  10. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2018
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    Front of engine in front of fuel rails both sides, a little can with 2 Fuel lines and a vacuum tube. Fuel filter line goes to it. Check 348 forum there are posts on replacing them.

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  11. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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  12. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
    37
    north of Italy
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    Teo
  13. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    I doubt it's the fpr. Just explaining where it is since you asked. I would pull the passenger foot plate and check the back of the footwell fuse box. I know a car that had the same issue symptoms and the fuse panel and melted where the power lead connects. When it cooled it worked. No start until cool and if it did it ran on 1 bank poorly, others electrical gremlins on and off like tail lights did not work etc.

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  14. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
    37
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    Teo
    this is interesting, in fact the first thing I did was check all the fuses and "pushing them all" right away the car started;

    but once at home I did the same test again and it still didn't start when hot so I thought it was something else and not the fuse box;

    do you think it could be the general wiring that connects to the fuse box?
     
  15. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    The tachometer is the biggest clue. It's either not working because the crank sensor has failed, the left hand Motronic ECU has failed or the tachometer itself.

    I don't think it's a tachometer power issue (at the fusebox) as that would affect all the instruments. I suppose you could be losing power to the ECU. Check power is on fuse 14 in the passenger footwell next time it happens. Ignition (key) power also goes to the ECU via the relay panel, but there are no fuses for that.
     
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  16. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
    37
    north of Italy
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    Teo
    the tacho itself I don't think so,
    I admit that when it started "wrong" I don't remember well, but it seems to me that the other instruments were going (pressure and temperature)

    in the weekend I will do another test, simulating the same conditions

    the moment it does not start well I will check the fuse 14 to see if there is current flow;

    I would also like to add that the second time it gave the ignition problem, initially it did not even start at 4 cylinders, it only faked the startup
     
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  17. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    losing power to the ECU - Exactly fuse 14 is mighty close to the power connection on the rear and if it melts it affects other circuits. Not saying its the issue but I have seen this before.
     
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  18. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
    37
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    Teo
    I will do a check with these tests and tell you, then I will bring it for service and we check the cranck sensors

    hopefully it is not the ECU itself
     
  19. wmuno

    wmuno Formula Junior
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    If a crank sensor fails, don't you get a Check Engine warning light? Also, would you be able to get an error code via the OBDII plug?
     
  20. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Good point. I don't know if Teo was getting a Check Engine Light.

    The ECUs provide both power and an earth to their respective CELs. If the ECU is completely dead, you shouldn't get a light. This may suggest an ECU power issue.

    I don't know if European cars were fitted with ECU test buttons. Teo may not be able to get codes without an SD1 tool.
     
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  21. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
    37
    north of Italy
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    Teo

    hi! at the time of the bad start there were no engine lights on, only the dead rev counter

    my car has no ODB sockets that I know of
     
  22. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Nor on any 348's. Check for a test button near each of the ECUs. Do you have a Workshop Manual?

    Interesting. Did you notice if both CELs illuminated before start? If you get no start or lose a bank again, turn off the ignition and then turn on again to see if both CELs illuminate.
     
  23. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
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    Teo

    1) yes I have the manual, I'll try to find if I have the test button
    under what section should it be?

    2) today that I will be at home I think I will do some tests of this type, bringing it to temperature and replicating the problem
     
  24. Teo's348

    Teo's348 Rookie

    May 4, 2021
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    Teo
    do you have a picture of the correct CELs lighting?
     
  25. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Ah, now you've got me thinking. I read that early cars ('98) don't have CELs and European cars may not have them.
     

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