Engine out, need advice

You will want to get a cradle under the engine that is on casters. I used 6” casters on 6” of lumber with about 3” of adjustable jack screws. Add to that the height from the bottom of the frame to the top of your plenum. That number is approximately the height to which you will need to raise the car measured at the top of your rear bumper. In other words, a quick jack may not have sufficient height. That said, I think(?) folks have done it.

It takes time, lots of PIA crawling around - but is pretty straightforward. The shop manual has a good set of instructions to follow.

You’ll need big wrenches for the oil hoses. IMHO, tie-back the ac compressor rather than drain.

The ‘tricky’ parts center on the water pump replacement (hydrotest!) and cam timing. Lots of folks here will weigh in with suggestions. Just go slow.

 

as I often have written: I only remove the engine to the top. so I can push the car where I want and the car not block a hoist. also you can reach all at the engine. when you remove the engine with the frame then you later have to remove this engine also from this frame. so work for nothing.

 

I agree with Joe, I have no lift and even if I did I'm 6,4 and could not use it anyway. I had a friend who used a tractor with a bucket, chains and straps to lift it out with no problem at all. Sat it on a cart so I could roll it around, it is about 800lbs so it must be a sturdy cart. Remove the shift rod or you will be sorry, tie up the compressor and carefully cut the gas lines at the nipples. Do not pull on them, they are Aluminum.

 

To add to Peter’s words…. cut the gas lines in the middle, well away from the nipples. Remove engine. After the engine is out, go back in and carefully cut the gas lines away from the tank’s nipples.

 

I’ve seen it both ways here on fchat.

Personally, I use a cradle.

This may help:
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/83958-major-2016-tool-time.512996/

If you search “83958”, you’ll find all the details….

 

Degree of difficulty:
Removal, about twice as difficult as removing the F355 engine.
Cam timing, about 5x more difficult than cam timing a 355, 10x more difficult than cam timing a 360 with its infinitely adjustable set up.
Water pump, an absolute pain in the ass of a design and 10x more difficult than any replace-as-a-unit water pump design. Triple test this before the engine goes back in or you will take the engine out again.
Hint: Don't just hammer in the seal. Make a press (yes, make a press) and press it in.

Tools needed:
Big ass wrenches with big ass cheater pipes.

While in there:
Replace oil radiator. Impossible to do with engine in.
Rebuild any oil lines that show signs of leakage
Replace the heater hoses, at least the ends.
Replace ALL coolant hoses on the firewall
Replace thermostats, just buy new ones.

 

I was going to make two caster plates that can attach to the engine-less car and push it around if I need the lift space.

 

Yes you can leave the rear wheels bolted up, and rig up a swivel castor to mount to one of the front frame attachment points - like a big tricycle. I have done this a few times with no issues.

 

Just read my previous post - I need to clarify. I've done a few engine-outs working without a lift or power tools. I have taken the motor out a couple of ways:

1) Get the car up in the air and set on 4 heavy duty jack stands - this takes quite a bit of work. Then lower the motor out using a heavy duty motorcycle jack.

2) Unbolt the motor, then raise the car up off of the motor / cradle - and roll the motor out the back. This is how I prefer to do it, but the car is not movable afterwards unless you rig up some castors as you mention.

 

Cut gas lines?????? I just loosen the clamp the way you are supposed to and take them off.

You guys sound like you work in a junk yard.

 

Why on earth would you remove the engine from the sub frame to service it? Nothing is in the way. Not only are you working way too hard you are burning a mountain of hours doing it. No wonder bills get so high. No one is using their head.

 

Loose clamp does not equate to loose hose.

Once the engine is out, it is easy to carefully slit the hose along the length of the nipple. That will allow removal without any stress on the nipple.

Loosen the clamp and yank an old, hard, form fitting hose sounds somebody working a flat rate.

 

You are an idiot. It is on a steel pipe easily reached at the engine end. I just slide them off.

You are too stupid to know any of that .

 

I never said that to remove the engine from the subframe because of a service. I only said if you have to do this ( for example repairing the gearbox ) it is double work to remove the engine with the subframe, better to take it out to the top without subframe. much less time consuming.
and sure only for service you can do all work when the engine is with the subframe.

 

brain, even you are one of the most and best experienced guys here, this is no reason to call someone an idiot

 

Sounds like Brian is in a bad mood…. again.

 

Brian’s our “Dr House” in the TR world. I appreciate his input.

 

I also appreciate his input - if it is factual and not offensive

 

Maybe I'm a sicko but I nearly spilled my drink laughing at his comment. Perhaps part of Brians' calling is to help people develop thicker skin. The world needs it. When he takes his occasional sabbaticals it leaves a big hole in our forums. I will grant that he almost outdid himself on this episode though. Always appreciate his inputs and broad knowledge. On this website you ain't nobody 'till Brian Crall calls you an idiot. Cheers!

 

You sure did.


"as I often have written: I only remove the engine to the top. so I can push the car where I want and the car not block a hoist. also you can reach all at the engine. when you remove the engine with the frame then you later have to remove this engine also from this frame. so work for nothing."


We were talking about a service. Not one word about trans work.

 

He is. And intentionally misrepresenting my statement. Butt out.

 

Too many no nothings with really bad advice.