458 DIY Spark Plug change - Easy or Hard? Special Tools?

Does anyone have a thought as to whether the spark plug should be
254771 - MR8AP
versus
297423-MR8BP

On Daniel's video channel (normal guy super car) he uses 297423 -purchased thru Ricambi

On the scuderia parts website - the parts diagram lists the 297423

I asked Ricambi directly and they recommend 254771
I asked scuderia parts directly and they recommend 254771

I am asking ferrari directly what is recommended

Ill post the information as I recieve it

 

After corresponding with several of the Ferrari parts vendors and speaking directly with the local Ferrari dealer, it appears part number 254771 is the correct spark plug for the Ferrari 458.

The part number 297423 may also work, but no-one from Ferrari or from the other independent Ferrari parts suppliers could recommend its use or guarantee its compatibility.

 

Thanks for the info

I guess if someone was to check with NGK direct maybe they can confirm if the newer later cars spark plugs as mentioned above are compatible with the 458 aswell?

 

Also would like to recognize Daniel at ricambi for his willingness to “get into the weeds” on this issue- he is always a wonderful resource on these cars and we don’t support his business enough !!

 

Was the question of why change them at 10k miles answered??

 

It's not the mileage, it's the time. You don't want those plugs in there for much more than 5 years, hence the service interval of 5 years.
If you leave them in there too long, and they happen to seize up, you will regret it. Then again, I'm a stickler for preventative maintenance, and probably over due a lot of stuff. I actually changed mine at the 8 year mark, and glad I did. The plugs seemed to be fine, and come out easily, but the coil packs were VERY stuck!

 

If it’s a setting and settling so why wouldn’t you just loosen and reinstall the existing plugs. Aren’t they platinum? I get the cost and effort argument but - still.

 

If you are going to do the labor, it makes sense to put new plugs in. It would be like taking a shower, but putting your dirty underwear back on!
Additionally, when the plugs are new, they have clean threads coated with something from the factory. I would imagine that it will get deteriorated while removing and installing the plugs, and the heat probably not good for them either. The plugs cost $200, why risk it on a $210,000 car?
I do understand that I'm very proactive (more than most), but I've never had any maintenance related engine problem on any of my cars in the last 35+ years. I also change all my cars synthetic oil every 4,000 miles, or yearly (if less than 4,000 miles driven). Most people think I'm nuts, but like I said, I'm ok throwing away a little bit of money, just to make sure that I will most likely never have a problem.

 

in my case i had a misfire.
I replaced the 4 year old battery and the 10 year old spark plugs and the misfire is gone

 

Found them finally...

https://us.gsparkplug.com/platinum-spark-plug-mr8ap8hjs-93340-by-ngk.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA9qKbBhAzEiwAS4yeDaQEmBkqz0QCzc9UJSSjxsTukkoDOPZ8-LUeVRP58wELI6l65NSchBoC2WsQAvD_BwE

 

I changed the plugs in my 430 with 15000 miles on them, car was 11 years old and they had never been out from new. The book quotes 40000 miles i recall and it is probably right- total waste of time and money as plugs came our easy and were in great condition with correct gaps etc.
if the 458 is similar setup, you need to glue the rubber ring into the socket, to be sure you can use the torque wrench in, i cut down the length of the 3/8 extension bar to suit and then welded the socket to it. You dont end up trying to fish out the rubber or the socket.

 

Hi!
Everything you wrote is exactly what happened to me too!!!

I also owned a 369 Modena and did the plugs. That’s was a fun project and was fairly straightforward. Access wasn’t too bad since I owned the Coupe

The 458 is a completely different experience. First I own a spider so that means learning how to open the capote lid, brace it, then remove the carpet and access panel. Lots and lots of fasteners.

The clip system for the ignition wires to the coil packs are a bit of a puzzle to understand. My take was that you need a special tool to slide back the yellow locking clip. I didn’t have that special tool so I used a flat head screwdriver instead. next you push down on the black tab to allow the ignition wire socket to be able to slide off the coil pack. However this is also not easy to do as the two don’t want to separate and the stiff ignition wires are often huddled too close to the next one, so they interfere and lock each other in place.

You will want to remove the round black sound cover for the fuel pump to allow for better access.

Next, I hope that there is a special secret Ferrari workshop tool(s) to remove the Eldor coil packs. I even called Eldor to see if they could provide any advice or tools. Nope!

What I came up with was to use a very strong nylon cord and lasso it around the neck of the coil pack. If you now get a handle of a tool I used the handle of a small rubber mallet, then you can pull on that to begin to uncork the coil pack. There is an index on the coil pack which fits into the hole on the engine where there is a corresponding rectangular slot. Therefore you must pull up enough to disengage these two before you try to twist the coil pack. The twisting can help to break the seal and the potential vacuum. If there is a vacuum seal you must twist to break the vacuum otherwise you will not be able to generate enough force by simply pulling. Remember to align the rectangular index to the hole when inserting the new coil pack. And you must push the coil pack all the way in which may require more force than you think! Sometimes you will hear a metal click.

Don’t worry the Eldor packs are super strong. I bought mine and the NGK plugs from Eurospares

The hardest plugs are the left bank #1 & 2 ! So don’t start there!
Wear a thick long sleeve shirt to protect your forearms

 

Blimey, after reading all of the challenges required to remove and replace the plugs in a 458, I’m glad I let the dealer do it on my ‘15 458 Italia at 22k miles.

Congratulations on your successful DIY solution. Take care and best wishes to you and yours!

Cheers!

 

Forgive me if this question has been covered. The price of the Ferrari boxed 254771 plugs is seriously hefty.

I don't mind paying for genuine if they are unique to Ferrari and special in some way, but it seems they are just Ferrari boxed NGK Laser Platinum MR8AP8HJS. Is this correct?

I am not questioning if the NGK branded variant is compatible, as of course it is, but rather is there any difference whatsoever between the Ferrari boxed and NGK boxed plug? Even if a visual identifier.

 

My indie recently charged $23.11 per NGK plug 254771, FWIW.

 

I bought the NGK plugs in the Ferrari packaging. I got MR8BP8HJS. I am taking out MR8AP8HJS.

I am not the original owner. Did these come in some/all the cars as OEM? Is it just the non Ferrari part number we have been looking for? I bought the car at 4 years old and 7,900 miles. Why would it have had the plugs changed? <<< Rhetorical question.

 

I got an air filter in a Ferrari package. It did not have the foam sound deadening material on the bottom like the one I removed. I suspect my car will sound better now!

 

US cars have the sound deadening foam; Euro cars do not.

IMHO, the US filter seems like a lot of money for something nobody wanted in the first place (except maybe a bureaucrat in DC)

 

I changed from the US brillo pad filter to the Euro and really couldn't tell a difference in sound.

 

FWIW genuine plugs are available with free shipping from australia plugs direct.

 

Link please ?

 

OMG TurboKraft you're a life saver! My 2015 458 spider is about to hit 10 years old so I wanted to change the plugs even though it runs perfect. But after watching videos and reading Fchat I was expecting a nightmare and hours of work just to remove the coils. Your adjustable head prybar idea seemed perfect to me so I bought a set of 3 adjustable head prybars on Amazon. After removing the engine cover panel on the spider, 8 electrical connections and the 2 round covers on the fuel components I used the small 8" bar to remove all 8 coils in 10 mins.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091YN4GFJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

After having access to the coils I put a small microfiber towel on the cylinder head between each set of 2 coils to protect the paint then securely placed the head of the prybar under the connector tight against neck of each coil pack. Then I gently pried on the connector side and used 2-3 fingers on the opposite side of the coil pack just to make sure it pried out straight. They all popped out easy as can be.

On reinstallation I applied a liberal amount of dielectric grease to the sealing ribs on the coil pack and now they slide in and out really easy for next time.

Also just for refence I didn't want to worry about knockoff or incorrect plugs so I went through my local dealer and they charged $35/plug. I know that's a bit more, but for me it was worth the piece of mind and I didn't think it was much more than through 3rd part websites.

Thanks again for this awesome community.
Frank
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