Engine work almost done, still work need for clutch Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Some more pictures Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Got some new pictures from Gunnar the 355 wizard at Stradale Vintage Cars Grease done Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login New flywheel Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Clutch mounted Image Unavailable, Please Login
Some close up pictures of manual conversion parts The transmission on F1 and manual some small difference, the F1 the linkage is shorter than manual. So part 159448 maybe need be longer. For now we keep OEM part 159448 but if need make bigger Stradale Vintage Cars will manufacture this part to be bigger. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The control bar for gearbox will get new bushings part nr 163525 + new nuts + washers this way the gearing will be like new. All bushings have been changed.
Hey Reza I think those pictures above which show the flywheel repack could be pretty misleading for anyone who sees this thread. You should be using closer to 200g to repack the flywheel rather than the amount which appears in your photos (97g?). As I understand it, all of the cavities within the damper along the perimeter should be filled with grease, not just the spring valleys. The individual plates (front and back) should also be greased so that they spin easily within the tolerances of the open machined areas. Your photos probably show an interim phase before the full amount of grease was applied. If not, I expect that you are in for some serious metal wear when those plates begin to move as the clutch starts to spin. Also as others have said, that is a beautiful spec you have there. Ken
Hi Elliott and Ken, I talked to shop the picture is misleading because the picture with the scale is readying 970 gr. They bought a kilo so they have extra in stock. I really hope they did grease right
This is from MyFerrari app, configuration Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Reza Another item I noticed from your gearbox connection above: the parts diagrams show the 159448 connection to the gearbox as attaching with a horizontal bolt but your connector has a vertical bolt (two in fact counting the one to the bar buffer). That means some gearboxes provide a horizontal bolt connection and others a vertical bolt connection. Unless your 159448 was machined as a new part, it should have both a horizontal and a vertical connection just like the 159427 joint near the shifter. In fact the only difference should be a slight upward bend on the 159427 otherwise they are identical. If the 159448 is a factory part, there are two versions of it on the road, which seems an odd choice by Ferrari. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The shop took the manual rod (long tube) and used it in stead of my f1 rod. They took the manual linkage block and my f1 linkage block and had a hybrid one made. Just to tell it in my basic knowledge terms if I am incorrect the shop can correct me. Most people use the F1 rod and then that linkage block needs to be differently machined (as the remarks made by a different post her). The shop will now try and manufacture that block soon as it saves having to buy the manual rod.
The factory diagram is misleading here. There are two differences between the F1 and manual gearboxes: the shift forks are stronger in the F1, and the gear selector rod is shorter in the F1, with a vertical bolt hole, not horizontal like in a manual. You can change out the selector rod when you do a conversion, but there's no real reason. I believe Reza's car kept the F1 selector rod and that's why you see two vertical bolts.
First start after the conversion, now we waiting for Tubi Evolution exhaust + new Spal fans 30102050 https://www.youtube.com/shorts/33asebnAP7w
what if you just make a longer adjuster? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great idea Ken. Who made the adjusters in your pic? This is a NLA item. Definitely a need for someone to make new ones. While they're at it they should make ones that are ~1.5" longer for the manual conversions.