Pete is your top speed pro exhaust the titanium version?
Asked only because they advertise the titanium system at 7.15lbs so I was surprised to see your steel system coming in at 8lbs.
Finished the y-pipe and test fit everything. Not sure that part was worth the trouble. The stainless y-pipe I made with the spacer is 6lbs. The titanium y-pipe is 2.4lbs. Not using the exhaust hangers anymore, they come in at 3lbs. So total weight loss of exhaust/y-pipe/hanger removal is 27.5lbs? LOL. Next, -may- be rear subframe. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
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I -really- thought my guides would be tight and valves sealing awesome based on my cars performance. It ran awesome. Great numbers on the dyno and at the track. Didn't smoke or use oil. That being said, I was really surprised at how bad the heads/guides are upon disassembly. Measurements? Have none. I didn't take any. Just observed that it was horrible and decided I need to fix it. Also. I have not CC'd port volumes but have taken a bunch of measurements. From the start of the intake port to the guides, my early 2.7 heads are very similar in size to the later 5.2 head I bought. After removing valves in my 2.7 heads, I've found the early heads seem to have a ton of material removed in the bowl area compared to the later 5.2 heads. Also notable, (to me at least) is, while my early heads are much bigger in the bowl area of the heads, the quality of the work is unimpressive. Lumpy transitions and just looks rushed. In comparison, the later 5.2 head I bought looks beautiful. Looking at the port work I thought, it would be hard to improve upon it. Just super nice. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yeah, no need to waste your time measuring those guides! Would be awesome if you could post some pics showing the differences between the 5.2 and 2.7 heads.
I don't think I will be able to capture the difference with photos. (I can try, don't think anyone could see the difference). Even looking at it in person it's hard to tell. Becomes more clear when you feel both of them. Best I can describe it is, on the long side of the intake port, the 5.2 head has a perfect, long radius to the seat. On my 2.7 head, that same long side overshoots meeting up with the seat. So below the seat/long side/top of port almost forms a bit of a bubble below the seat before meeting it. (overshoots then turns back to the seat) 5.2 head, appears ported by a master. Just super nice the entire port, on every cylinder. One of my 2.7 heads looks to be ported very nice, but not quite as nice as the 5.2 head I have. The other 2.7 head I have looks to be ported by someone else entirely with very little skill/attention to detail. No worries, I will fix it myself. Just a bit surprised to see the variance between the 2 heads.
That video is wild. I don't understand how the valve heads weren't beating the crap out of the seats and causing sealing problems. I had a 911 engine with a couple guides that worn and the seats were in bad shape. Are you sending the heads out or doing yourself?
I believe they didn't seal well, all things considered. Cold compression test was 150-170psi. Looking at the valves/ports there was evidence of poor sealing in the way of carbon/black traces up the valves. As excellent as -some- of the port work is, the valve job on both the new and older head appears to me to be a single angle valve job. One angle seat cut and very wide margin. I think that's why my car didn't exhibit any symptoms. Guides sloppy as hell....still... easy to seat the valve with no precision to the massive seat. ^ To your question, I would prefer to send them out. Problem is, I don't really trust anyone. So from here I will order sample guides from multiple manufacturers to determine which I prefer. I'll remove all guides from my heads then port them to match as best as I can. Install best guides, then have the seats/valve job machined best as possible. Not sure how much improvement will be found. Still surprised it made 340rwhp and (with weight reduction) ran 12.4 @ 116.8 with the above issues. My best guess is the F355 valves could still do a decent job of sealing due to their small size. (and really less amplified by center valve 10deg retarded) In comparison, same generation 2-valve (and basically hemi combustion chamber) Porsche, could suffer much more with same or less guide wear, I would think.
You're only .2 and 3mph off of a 360 challenge stradale in the 1/4 - with properly sealing valves I wouldn't be surprised to see you at the same power/weight. Impressive!
Very interesting thread. (from the only guy who did provide me usefull info in another thead while all others were bashing me for daring asking what would be the proper launch for this car ) Congrats INTMD8! Very nice work (and attitude ).
Thanks guys. Starting to cut up the extra cylinder head I have to get an idea of port wall thickness... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The biggest problem with 5-valve heads; is cooling, airflow is about as good as it gets. A few hours with a rotary file might get 1%-3% (but if you take material from where it should not be taken, you can just as easily lose that 3%.) On the exhaust side: a ramp from the port to the header adds considerable flow to the port without enlarging the interior volume. That is, come off the port at the 15º angle starting at 38mm and progressing to 42mm over 10mm. The 38mm end will need to be shaped to the port. Then the exhaust pipes should remain 42mm to the collector(s).
As for the port work I'm going to blend/smooth some of the lumpy work that was done but I don't intend to enlarge them any more than needed or re-shape significantly. The design looks very nice to me. On the exhaust side I had header flanges made that match the exhaust port angle.
The stock exhaust port is, as mentioned, an upward angle relative to the flange. The original headers do not match that angle so while the size matches fairly nice (header maybe slightly smaller than port) the angle does not, as you can see- Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The new flanges are- slightly larger. Original primary tube OD I measured at 1.573 or 40mm New primary tubes will be 1.625 or 41.27mm Slightly larger but really only because 1.625 mandrel bends are as close I can find in the US without going smaller than original. Focus is on, flange design being an extension of the port, rather than disrupting it, larger radius bends and slightly altering tube lengths. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It appears my cylinder heads were ported by 2 different people, one much better than the other. A few examples. Here is the exhaust port and short turn of the nice one. Exhaust port is beautiful all the way to the flange. Bowl work/blending pretty nice. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login