In your first post you said the temp climbs in traffic and at a stop once you start going or fans come on it drops to a normal reading That sounds like it’s low coolant in the system most likely a leak somewhere Because it’s low the water pump doesn’t have enough fluid to circulate in the system and the temps go up once you start driving then what ever fluid you do have moves through out the system and removes the heat Running the car this way can be dangerous once you see temp gauge going up as far as you have (in the pics) stop shut it down and either wait along time to cool it off or call for a tow —— if you keep going (even trying to get home) there can be a lot of damage to your engine worse being blowing a head gasket and warping the head which can be avoided by not driving the car Don’t play games here if your hoses, water pump and thermostat are old and not yet been serviced I would just do all of them and have the radiator and heater core test at the same time the cost of doing this is alot cheaper then dropping an engine and doing all of it anyway It’s safe Insurance and money well spent Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
The difference is the 355 has two fans that are independently controlled. Left side fan comes on when the coolant temp switch (on the radiator) closes its two contacts. Right fan comes on when the oil temperature hits a certain point and the ECU decides it needs the fan to come one. Hearing one fan is not enough and I think the OP is hearing only one fan.
Interesting on the 348 both sides radiator fans come on triggered by water temp sensor. When a car over heats and temps drop when moving is a classic sign of thermostat defect. If your loosing water that's a different story, sort that first. If it still happens when the coolant is topped up its likely the thermostat. Had that happen on 2 different cars over the years.
But not in the case of the 355. By the way, be sure to sit down when you order the 355 replacement thermostat.
I replaced the fans. Now the fuses won't blow anymore I hope. Tested and they both run. That's okay, but since my last major maintenance I have another problem. Sometimes when stationary, it runs at lower rpm than 1000 rpm and then the low pressure light comes on for a while. As if the belts are overloaded by a consumer? Is there already a conversation about this that I should go through or does anyone have an idea what it could be? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Was there anything changed during the last major, other than belts and fluids? Idle speed should be 1020~1040 with aircon off and 1060 with aircon on. Is there any sign of roughness when it drops below 1000? Idle air controller problem? Clean controller connectors. Clean the internals with some kind of solvent. e.g. Throttle body cleaner. I don't know why it would suddenly start after a major. Have you tried doing the battery reset/idle relearn procedure?
thanks Quevon for your help, the belts, brake and engine fluids, oil filter and valve cover seals have been replaced. And I presume the air filters. the air conditioning has also been topped up with yellowish liquid, and it is leaking at the air conditioning pump. And yes there is something rough to hear then. also sometimes but not always. I think the air con may have been empty when I bought it and before maintenance. And yet I found that for maintenance it ran nicer and stayed better around 1000 rpm. I was not really allowed to stay with the maintenance, you could see that they would rather not. They say the engine ran on a bench for two hours for testing after servicing and when I got it back the chief said I had a perfect f355. I myself have not performed the idle reset. I don't know exactly how to do the idle reset. Is it also necessary when you switch off the battery with the switch in the front right of the suitcase? or when your battery has been flat? I charge the battery along the positive terminal and the ground at the right rear of the engine. And sorry for all these questions but where exactly is the stationary air controller? then I can clean them. these are translations I am Dutch speaking
because the revs drop at idle so sometimes the light of the lower oil pressure comes on. if you give it some gas it goes out. yesterday I cleaned the contacts of the oil pressure switch near the oil filter and sprayed it with wd40. I am willing to replace the switch and was already looking for the right part and where to order? But if it's because of the idling, that's not necessary. I haven't tested it yet, but I think it has everything to do with the idle speed. if i change the switch, can i do that with the oil in it or does it have to be drained? should the switch be changed with a cold or slightly warm engine?
I seem to recall I changed mine with little fluid loss. I think the fluid drains from that area if you give it enough time. Although it makes sense to change it when the metal is warm, for (human) safety concerns, it may be best to let the car cool down. It is very difficult to get a full length 24mm open ended spanner on the sender (switch), but it has to be done to get the required torque. I also added an extension to the spanner for more leverage. I tried various penetrating liquids and a heat gun. I was very fearful that the expensive aluminium casting (into which the oil pressure sender is screwed) would fracture. There was a loud cracking noise when the sender finally came loose. Fortunately, nothing broke.
scary i go for doing the battery reset/idle relearn procedure and maybe cleaning the Idle air controller first. i first need to know how performing the idle reset relearn.
Don' use WD40 on contacts or to clean the IAC's, use electrical contact cleaner its available as a spray. Quick search turned this up, many more out there, its in the owners manual as well - https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/355-battery-off-switch-knob-reset-ecu.363016/
Idle reset: Turn off the battery ground cut off switch for a full minute. Turn it back on. Start the car without touching the throttle, the AC off, and heater off. Let it run for 10 minutes. 355 is very well known to have the low oil pressure light flash on at very hot temperature and idling which is when the oil pressure is at its absolute lowest especially with thin oil grade. If you don't see the low pressure light at normal driving condition, just leave it alone.
I have a contact cleaner in spray. am sure. bought it last week. but I didn't find him right away. will do it again with the right product.
The idle air controllers are shown in this 2.7 parts diagram: Image Unavailable, Please Login There is one on either side of the inlet plenums on the Motronic 2.7 car. I'm assuming you have a 2.7 car (with two idle air controllers). Question for the engine experts: Looking at the idle adjustment procedure in the WSM (not the relearn procedure), it says that the idle air controllers should be (electrically) disconnected and that the engine should be started and the idle adjusted to 102o rpm. Does this mean that there is enough air flowing past the throttle butterflies at idle to keep the engine running ... or does it mean that unpowered idle air controllers default to a certain open position to keep the engine running? Not that all threads contain correct and up to date information The last message in your link sounds like B.S. It includes instructions to turn on the headlights??? The headlight relays are not going to work with the battery switch in "cutoff", unless perhaps you have non-standard earth wiring (which bypasses the cutoff switch). Also, you can't erase the learned parameters on a 5.2 car.
I do not know about the type used on the 355 2.7 but the 348 2.7 idle air valves have a default opening when not powered, controlled by internal counter-acting springs. The 355 WSM described procedure for idle adjustment does not appear to be very clear. It says "Connect the SD-1 system..." than later "Disconnect the 2 idle regulators" and then says "Adjust the rotation speed to about 1020 rpm (using the SD-1)". It seems that, after the looms have been disconnected from the idle air valves, the SD-1 is connected to the valves so that the idle speed can be set to 1020 rpm "using the SD-1". The instructions in the case of 348 are a bit clearer but not totally: "Disconnect the 2 idling speed regulators" then "Connect the Ferrari Tester...". It does not say to what to connect the Ferrari Tester but, looking at the drawing of the tester (shown below), it seems that it means connect it to the "idling speed regulators". In this way, the openings of the 2 idle air valves can be kept at a certain fixed value by the tester (resulting in 850 rpm specified for the 348) while the idle adjustment and synchronisation is being performed. Without using the Ferrari Tester, when I tried with disconnected idle valves, the rpm shot-up to 1300; when I tried with plugged idle valve hoses, the engine would not idle at all even with the bypass adjuster screws open quite a bit. Image Unavailable, Please Login We need clarifications here from someone who has had experience with the Ferrari Tester (348) and the SD-1 system (355).
Thanks, Miro. Makes more sense. Otherwise there is no way of adjusting the rpm. I've adjusted the rpms of my Lotus engine electronically via an ECU interface, but I guess the only way to do that is by the ECU controlling the airflow through the IACs. With the IACs disconnected, that pretty hard to do
I will probably soon build an experimental "Manual IAC Valve Controller" to work with the 348 idle valves. Already have a circuit diagram for it; it will plug into both IAC-s and send identical PWM signal to both, controlled by a potentiometer. In this way, the idle speed can be set to a fixed value (850 rpm for 348) for the purpose of balancing the banks to the same vacuum. There are actually two PWM signals to each IAC - one for opening, one for closing. The two are performing a kind of "tug of war" and the ECU decides which one will prevail and by how much according to what adjustment to idle speed is required. The oscilloscope graph below shows the PWM signal controlling the opening of the IAC I captured on one bank of my 348, showing also how it responds to additional load by the AC compressor (the "on" duty of the PWM signal gets longer which opens the IAC a bit more to prevent idle speed drop). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Think it is a 5.2 I did a 10min idle reset and it stayed around thé 1000rpm. Is it maybe because of cleaning thé contacts from the pressure switch♂️ Image Unavailable, Please Login
I had problems with low oil pressure and the light sometimes coming on when idling. the engine had warmed up and I had to top up two liters of water. At that time I had discovered blown fan fuses and in the meantime I also replaced and tested the fans. They work. The low oil pressure at idle had not gone away and on cold start it was sometimes below 1000 rpm. I cleaned the contacts of the oil pressure gauge (sensor). Then I did the idle reset and after the battery kill button I let it idle for 10 minutes with the AC and interior fan off. During this reset, according to the meters, it remained at a pleasant temperature. water temperature and oil temperature were below 100 degrees. and the oil pressure was also higher and the oil pressure light did not come on. I cleaned some condensation water under the exhaust pipes in the back of the car and saw nothing else on the ground. I thought it was hot to just idle. but after having dinner and taking a walk, the barrel was still full. see p it has again ejected water through the overpressure of the cap of the expansion tank after I had stopped it. topped up too much water? thermostat? air? temperature sensors? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes, Lauwerys, as Mitchell said you overfilled it. From the Owner's Manual... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Correct. There is only a single Idle Air Controller (under the "Y" pipe) on a 5.2. Did you notice if the rpm's went up with the airconditioning switched on? Did you notice if the left hand radiator fan was running during your battery/idle reset? This fan is controlled by a thermoswitch on the radiator. The LH fan will only run if the radiator is hot. As far as I know, the radiator will only get hot if the thermostat is opening.
