355 355 F1 - Gear Selection Issues

In my opinion, it sounds like it was not centered correctly. Literally the centering procedure involves adjusting the forward rear position of the actuator. It simply sounds like its place slightly too far towards the front or rear which allows it to select the even gears but not the odd

 

As I was reading through your post I said out loud "motor mounts" and yep there it was. Your next move should be to inspect that crossmember (drop it and have a good look, it is easy) to see if the actuator linkage has been contacting the crossmember. If you find evidence of contact don't leap to assume the actuator is out of alignment or damaged, but put that data point in your notes. Check and be sure that the fasteners in the linkage are not still in range of contacting the crossmember even with new mounts!

To address your question about bleeding the system yourself, yes you can easily to that, it is not risky and is something you should do if the system has been compromised during any work.

***** If your car has not yet been updated to the F360 pump you should do so before you do much more troubleshooting. Replace the pump and purge, then carry on with your work. As part of replacing the pump replace the accumulator as well. Both the pump and accumulator are marginal and under performance or failure of either one can cause these problems. The documentation is poor and some techs are super familiar with the matter and others are oblivious. The symptoms as you describe them CAN be caused by actuator alignment issues, but are also the symptoms seen with the known crappy pump and accumulator. I can't promise anything having never seen your car but I would not be shocked if your problems cleared up if you do the following:

1. Replace OEM pump with 360 upgrade.
2. Verify linkage is all clear.
3. Replace accumulator.
4. Fill and bleed system
5. Execute PIS self-learn
6. Execute Octopus self-learn (will not trigger on all cars)

This thread details my journey from "it worked until it didn't" to it now working flawlessly. The F1 system can be broken down into a list of actuators and sensors, and certain conditions must be true or false for certain things to happen. There is allot of hype and obfuscation mainly from those who have an interest in it being dark and mysterious. Many of the above steps are detailed in this thread, if you need help on something please post.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f1-overhaul-thread-clutch-pump-throwout-flywheel-360-pump-etc.467896/

 

You don’t need a 360 upgrade
You can just replace the motor
It works just as good and remains stock looking if that matters
Also I would replace the accumulator if the other one is old

likely your system went out of calibration due to the actuator hitting the cross member

 

By "Octopus Self-Learn", are you referring to the actuator test where the F1 cycles thru the odd numbered gears automatically? If so, be aware that there is no learning going on. This test checks for mechanical obstructions (like the one suggested above) but is most definitely not an indication that centering is precise. I know this as I had an off-center actuator years ago but could not complete the actuator shift test without failure tones. Following centering the test has been 100% successful.

For the OP: keep in mind not all cars will initiate the actuator shift test so don't get too upset if your car is one. Assuming you get good pressure after you insert the key, you almost certainly need a SD1 to correct the shift issues. Without pressure, check for leaks and start with the accumulator replacement as others have suggested. You will want to replace this regardless of the root-cause.

 

I don't think your issue is the accumulator. If the pressure is low, you'll have crappy shifts on all gears depending on when the pressure drops.

You can tell if you need a new accumulator.... Count the number of flashes you get when you energize the car after it has sat overnight.

It should be about 5 or so. Mine was 13+ before I switched the bulb.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f1-accumulator-bulb-replacement-procedure.555260/

 

Is there a dimensional way to locate the actuator?

I had a leaky input shaft seal. I marked the actuator location before removal and replaced it exactly where it came from and it was fine.

But if it gets jolted or moved my approach is useless.

 

The actuator is very rigidly mounted, I would expect some other damage before it is "knocked out of alignment", but it is possible. I have had my actuator on and off multiple times and have lost all fear of aligning it. I have had every component of the F1 system off the car and dry, replaced or re-sealed components and reinstalled it as a working system that was correctly configured when checked on a SD or Leonardo. Manual alignment is absolutely possible.

As 00199 posted above, octopus is more of a test than a "learn", but a very useful test. I have started from my zero and deviated fore/aft to see how broad the "success zone" is and returned to zero. You can find those outer limits and set to the middle and probably be spot on. If one replicated the placement from a working car they would be either correct, or real close, close enough to give insight into why it isn't working. There will be some sort of difference between cars so there can't be an absolute dimensional setting, but if you go to battlesight zero you stand to be OK, or close enough to see what dimension you are off in. I do suggest verifying with an SD or Leonardo to be sure, mine has been right but I only know that for sure from having it hooked up. And I concede there very well could be cases when this doesn't work and you need an SD/Leonardo to do a working calibration, my sample size is 2 cars.

Someone who I wish I could recall to give credit to stated in one of the F1 threads that the system is actually very simple and I agree. All it really does is replicate your feet and hand operating a stick shift, certain things are blind and others are sensored, some parameters are static and some can be defined (and out of that list some can be learned and some must be set), and there is a definitive list of inputs and outputs to/from the TCU. One aspect of the system I have found to be true is that one component being off-spec can cause malfunctions, and when your tolerances gang up on you by a few things being off-spec its a real mess. I have found its important to start with a baseline with a strong pump, known good accumulator, purged lines, new motor mounts, healthy clutch, etc. There are a certain number of operations that the system executes, execute an operation then observe the malfunction and compare that to the sensor(s), switches, that are used and their states, and the expected actuator event during the operation. Unless the TCU or harness is faulty your going to find an input absent or out of range or an actuator is not functioning or aligned, and that is about it.

 

If you imagine the shifter movement of neutral into 3rd, you push forward into gear which has the reverse affect of pushing back into the gearbox (opposite for 4th gear). This explains it well: .

You can remove and reinstall the brace without any issue. But I would not drive with it off.

New accumulator is cheap and takes 20 minutes to swap but you will need adapters and the original can be difficult to remove due to lack of access/clearance. It is similar to a water heater expansion tank in that it has an internal rubber diaphragm that breaks down over the years and thereby compromises its' ability to hold pressure. Expansion tanks are often replaced every 8-10 years and your 355 accumulator is nearly 25 years old. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f1-accumulator-bulb-replacement-procedure.555260/

 

That seems about right for an original
Once changed it’s likely in the 4 to 8 range from what I remember
It could be mechanical in the transmission or could be your actuator is not working well either
Would need more diagnosing

 

The motor as I said above can be changed
Likely not the pump as it’s pretty simple