Leakdown test results, not good, head re-builder options?

Why only 18? Were some still ok?

 

Whats the other piece.

How do you get the correct torque or is it torqued by rotations

 

I got it now thanks

 

That is just the handle, the other piece is the stubby 15mm wrench that goes into that handle. The torque wrench fits 90 degrees to that handle and makes the torque reading correct on the wrench. The setting however is a low torque at the beginning and an additional 90 degrees after that.

 

The tool needs to be 2 pieces so when it breaks you only need to replace half. I bought the tool. The issue with these tools is the low volume - that's what drives the cost. Our spark plug boot tool is pretty darn cheap at $60 (you bought one Mitch) but I think we've only sold 20 or so. Hardly worth programming the machine but I do many of these things for myself and just to offer cool stuff for the community.

Perhaps one day but it's low on the list.

 

I'm doing a full restoration of the car - hopefully it will be done in my lifetime

I'm Fully rebuilding the heads (myself) and will be installing manganese bronze guides and all new valves.

 

Tom - unless you need to replace the valves (possible) you can take it all apart and clean. Probably need to dress seats which will result in a slight valve height adjustment. That's a whole other can a worms for the compound angle valves.

 

Two years ago I was looking to buy a 35 from a dealer in NJ. They admitted leak down of the traded in car was not ideal, but the said their move was to drive it for few weeks (Italian for sure) and re-assess compression. In my view unless it's a race car and you need every 10ths performance, there's no need to open up an engine for refresh. Tired valve guides and high oil consumption with visible smoking entirely a different matter.

 

They were literally rocking in the valve guides. He said the valves were "hammered". They were sent back to me and I gave them away as souvenirs to friends.

 

For carbon removal I go to my chevy dealer and get the GM top end cleaner.

 

Hi everyone, sorry for the bump but I think this is more efficient than making a new thread. I'd like to clean out any carbon build up in my heads/valves prior to doing a leakdown/compression test to mitigate the possibility of bad compression/leakdown numbers being from carbon buildup.

This is what I want to buy, correct? If so, how do I administer the dose? I seem to remember reading just to pour it in the intake just after the air filter. Or do I just inject it in the ports that are used to balance the throttle bodies?

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https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-3015-Engine-Injector-Cleaner/dp/B07CZ17LK3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3Q1RM3EPJ67AE&keywords=gm+top+end+cleaner&qid=1656360889&sprefix=gm+top+end+cleaner,aps,91&sr=8-2

It is worth noting that this is a 32oz bottle. They also make a 16oz bottle and also one in aerosol form. I am concerned about hydro locking the engine as well as damaging the MAFs. I'd like to know the correct procedure. Thanks!

 

On my STI we would draw sea foam into the intake manifold from a vacuum port.

 

Water > seafoam

 

Thanks! I'll look into sea foam but I did have a friend who had it done to his car and it caused a CEL and high idle.






I'm not going to use water on this. But thanks for the suggestion

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Oh you'll get a CEl. After you're done just clear the code.

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I've done that on a couple cars...One was a 1968 fury, the other an old C10. I smoke checked the neighborhood twice....LOL

sjd

 

I have this setup from BG and love it. on my third setup as the first 2 were never returned