Wobbly 360CS Side View Mirror - Any fixes?

Ive read online and seen on youtube videos that it is definitely the bushings that get worn out causing the wobble vice loose screws. Everyone has replaced them on their cars to stop the wobble. I wish I had a "how to" or a DIY link for you, but sadly I don't. Good luck and hope it goes smoothly!

 

I had a very talented body shop guy that restores car , on mine we pulled the three screws out in put a dab of silicone adhesive between the carbon fiber stalks tightened it wright up and if some thing hits the mirror it will still fold
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CarbonDan, unfortunately, there really is no permanent solution as the parts tend to wear out. The only solution is replace them. Normally, I wouldn't do this but I would be willing to pull of my Modena mirrors and swap you for your flappy CS mirrors....

 

Good idea! If you can remove yours and it remains intact, see if you can 3D scan and print it. Otherwise the adhesive could give you a "molded" fix that will account for the worn material. If you need to take it apart, you should still be able to do so.

 

Found this thread while searching. I have a slightly wobbly LH mirror on my car.

I’ve tried to tweak the torx screws under the mirror arm but one of them just spins and the other two are tight already. Now I found this thread and it seems a common issue.

Is there a good solution for this yet?

 

To fix holes in plastic ive always used a small amount of 5 minute epoxy and apply inside with a toothpick, then once dry tighten the screw back
Or if it grips enough and not completely stripped just epoxy the screw in

 

I have wondered if you could machine up a teflon bush and tapped threads into it to replace the rubber one. Only other way would be to bond AVK threaded inserts in the original rubber bush

 

This how I fixed my CS left hand mirror .
Remove door panel, remove the mirror and unplug it , remove the 3 screws on the bottom of the mirror .
Gentle pull upper half of the mirror and push the wire threw bottom half.
Upper half of the mirror 3 screws you will notice they are lose and more than likely strip out.
They hold a metal plate to upper half of mirror , maybe able to just tighten and put back together .


My fixed - bought 3M 5200 fast cure color black for heavy duty marine use strongest bonding adhesive
on the market .
Scuff metal plate with sand paper and where the plate meets mirror , apply small dabs of 3M 5200 and replace
3 screws and let cure over night and even if you remove the 3 screws that plate can never be removed.
Should be good as new !!

 

Interesting, thanks for the detail!

Can you still fold your mirror? I don’t ever really need to fold mine but I like the option.

 

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Yes you can still fold the mirror.
If you could not fold the mirror you will have even a bigger problem.
If it ever gets hit or bumps in to something it will be ripped off the car and damaged .

 

Right that’s why I was asking

Thanks for the photos that’s super clear now! Will try your fix.

 

Very easy to remove door card and there is 2 5mm nuts and one 5mm screw that holds mirror to the door.

 

Glad to help !

 

(I've had to split this into two posts because the forum won't let me upload more than 10 photos per post...)

I finally got round to fixing my car and I thought I'd write this up into a post as there's very little information out there for CS owners willing to try a bit of DIY.

I took Randy's idea and expanded on it slightly. It's fixed my mirror really well; it's rock solid now, it still folds and it feels better than the passenger side which hasn't started wobbling yet.

Here's how I did it. I can't remember all the required tools/sizes but if you have a good quality socket set you'll have everything you need. It's basically and 8 and a 10mm socket, 2 or 3 sizes of torx driver, a few phillips screwdriver sizes, a 2.5mm allen and some other assorted tools. You don't need anything special in terms of drivers or sockets.

Before doing anything you want to drop the window as if it's in the fully up position it blocks access to one of the mirror fixtures later on.

After dropping the window, the first thing to do is remove the door card to get access to the mirror fixings.

Undo the door handle using the 2.5mm allen.

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The rest of the mechanism is fixed so don't worry about anything else falling into the door.

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To remove the door card itself you need to undo the torx screws that are in each corner... The gotcha: there's a screw hiding under the bottom of the door card, in the middle (green arrow-ish). You need to remove this one too. I'd do the screw first.

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With all of those The door card should just lift off. Careful not to drop it The rubber seal for the window will probably fall off at this point (circled) - don't worry about that, it's easy to get back on later when re-assembling.

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One of the mirror fixings is hidden behind the rubber seal at the front corner of the door. We need to remove this bolt to be able to pull the seal out of the way to expose those that are not visible.

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With this bolt removed you can pull back the seal and expose the screw that holds the top of the mirror assembly to the door. Remove that screw.

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The rest of the mirror fixings are accessible through holds in the seal. You have two bolts and a torx screw. Be really careful when undoing these as you don't want to drop them into the door.

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The next bit was the most difficult part for me. You have to somehow extract the wiring and the plug that runs the mirror adjustment motor (and the exterior temp sensor depending which side you're doing). My car had a load of sticky foam insulation that was initially blocking me from pulling the wire and the plug upwards into the area that the two bolts are in so it was accessible through that rectangular access hole. Once I'd pushed this insulation out of the way I had just enough space to undo the plug through the access hole and pull the mirror free. Ideally I think you'd pull the plug out through the hole on the outside of the door and unplug it 'outside' the car. Whatever works for you.

To disconnect the plug you need to pull the two little arms (circled) out and lift off. Then your mirror is free!

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I managed to lever the female end of the plug out of the door and leave it hanging here so it wouldn't fall back into the door.

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Now to work on the mirror itself. Undo the torx screws on the bottom of the mirror arm and gently pull the two parts apart.

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The black ring part is held to the base by the screws we just removed. This ring rotates and allows the mirror to fold. The black ring, and hence the lower part of the mirror, is held to the upper part with the metal plate which is screwed into the upper part of the mirror (in my case using three different screws...). On my car it was the upper metal plate that had come loose and was causing the wobbling.

Remove the three different screws(!) and the metal plate will come free.

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Clean up the metal plate and the mounting surface on the mirror using some isopropyl alcohol. I also cleaned up the carbon fibre swarf that was a result of the screws damaging their threads.

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Now comes the glue part. I decided to use Sikaflex EBT+. There were a few reasons I chose this.

1. It's good for bonding metal to plastic.
2. It maintains some elasticity when it's set, which I thought would be good on something that is subject to a lot of vibration.
3. It's not completely impossible to remove it when it is set. Should I need to take this apart in future I wanted to be able to. It's difficult but it's possible.
4. It's a lot cheaper than 3M 5200 - at least in the UK.

Anyway, run a fine bead of your chosen adhesive onto the mounting surface between the screw holes but without putting so much on that it's going to squirt out when you re-mount the metal plate.

Re-mount the metal plate, screw the screws back in then clamp it down (gently!) with something to protect the mirror arm (I used a couple of microfibre cloths). Leave it to cure for a few days - I gave mine 3 days I think as I didn't have time to work on it until 3 days later

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The black ring seems to cause problems for lots of people. Only one of the threads in mine was stripped out so it was still pretty solid, but I wanted to stop it failing in future. I considered sticking some more Sikaflex down the holes and screwing it back together but was worried about gluing the black ring to the metal plate and stopping it rotating - or the glue squirting out of the holes as the screws are replaced and gluing the metal ring to the base of the mirror. Which would stop me taking it apart in future.

After consulting a few other people it seemed like the proper way to fix it would probably be to either put in some new threads or rotate it slightly and drill new holes (with thread inserts). Neither of these options was going to work for me as I wanted to get the car back together to use over this weekend so I took a slightly less proper approach...

I went back to the 'glue in the holes' solution but put a tiny bit of matchstick down each hole before putting glue in the hole. The idea being that the matchstick acts as a barrier and stops the glue sticking the black ring to the metal plate... Then using a cocktail stick I smeared some Sikaflex into each hole, put the mirror back together and screwed the three screws back in.

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I took this approach so the Sikaflex can act as a threadlock and (hopefully) stop the screws working loose in future but it should also be possible to undo the screws in future should I need to take the mirror apart... I left it for 48hrs then put the car back together.

Putting everything back together should be pretty straightforward. The hardest part for me was getting the door card back on. It takes some patience to line everything up properly. I also found the only way to get the window seal back on properly was to pull it off the door totally, then slide it back into the channel on the top of the door card, and re-mount the door card with the seal already installed. Perhaps you're supposed to do it like that.

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Once that was done I managed to get the door card back on with some, er, special Ferrari door hanging tools to hold the front in place while I got the window seal to sit properly at the back...

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After all that, you should have a solid mirror again.

Apart from getting the plug off the mirror and the door card re-mounting, both of which took me about 15mins of swearing at it, the rest of the job is very easy.

 

Great detail pictures, had to do the same thing, I used 3M 5200 fast curer rated number one in every category these mirrors are not availabe any where and going for stupid money .

 

25k$ mirrors that come loose??
Yikes!

great write up!

 

I did find the original manufacturer of the mirrors (https://www.plyform.it/automotive-plyform/) from the stickers on the inside of the mounting plate... Maybe we can ask them to make us some new ones..?

 

With that metal inside upper metal plate is bonded to carbon fiber upper really no need for the three screws.
IMHO driver side door is used more than passenger side door makes senses you see more left side mirrors lose.
Factory should have made upper half more secure in the first place, good side this fix should solve this problem for good .

I bet some poor soul had the upper half come lose while driving high speed and destroyed the mirror banding the glass or the side of the door .

 

The last time I drove mine before fixing it, it was starting to get super wobbly. The last couple of miles to home I drove with my hand holding it because I was worried about it falling off.

I took a video once I was safely back in the garage...

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RwNAUfZ2A08