SO, there are 2 kinds of failures, usually 1. there's resistance, but it won't bounce back. usually oil not leaking. 2. there's no resistance at all. usually oils are leaking. so here we go, first, use flat screwdriver and a hammer to remove the cover Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've head that "won't bounce back" issue can be resolved by refilling the Nitrigen. eh. so, next step, cut it by using a dremel or cutting tool Image Unavailable, Please Login
then you remove the rubber at the top of the shock, it was interference fit in there . Image Unavailable, Please Login
then you use a screw driver, and a vise grip to unscrew the "top" of the shock. 2 poeple required. 2 young and big people preferably. ( vise grip as on top as possible, to avoid damage the part of the rod that goes into the shock body) Image Unavailable, Please Login
there we go, top removed. but the cable is still connected. Im going to have to dissembly the connector in order to get the cable out of there. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Cool....but since you cut into it, what are your plans for it? Just showing us what's inside...which is cool too
im going to learn from that europrean company to CNC a cover (with helicoils inside of it) , to make up for that "cut" I did contact that european company who did the sucessful re-build and they aren't selling the repair kit to me. So I've to do this all over again myself.
Definitely subscribed. F-ing car is close to 1/4 century old. There should be no secrets. May the Force be with You!
The "Die-Sexing" of your shock is appropriate for the wonky times we now live in. You will have a LGBTQ(it) shock. Up, down, in, out, left. right. Whatever. Does it look like a shock, drop link, steering rack? Just be happy with whatever it is.
great, guys , now, the thing that always bugs me is that 1. what caused the "no rebounce" of the shock? is it really just the Nitrigen are all gone? does the nitrigen has seals to seal it up too? 2. even if the shock can no longer bounce back after compression, so what? In my intuitive thought, I can't think of any difference between a rebounding shock and a non-rebounding shock. I mean, as long as proper resistance are there, that is a healthy shock, isn't it?
its very likely to go to the bin. I love doing experimental works on my car. I have about , maybe 50% success rate.
I think I just understood something, our shock is the "twin tube" design, not the "mono tube". so the nitrigen is at the side of the cylinder, not at the bottom. So this might explain why there's no rebound while there's still resistance force. It is because gas is easier to leak than oil? Am I understanding this correctly? Image Unavailable, Please Login
so , the "top" of the shock is completely removed, leaving just the cylinder and the rod Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dissmble the top seal a little bit. Then I tried to remove it from the rod (from top) , failed. The seal can be moved up and down the rod but it won't jump out from the coil area. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
That's all for today. I did buy the top seal from a guy in china who's done rebuilding the same shock (surprise) . I'll wait for 2 days for it to arrive and see what does the seal look like and then try to remove the top seal again. I now need to CNC the top cover and make sure it will seal nitrigen. Image Unavailable, Please Login
look what I've got. The seller only got one, now I have to go ahead and find more of these. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
