Hi guys ended up flat bedded home at the WE . A long 2 hr trip and it died .Bat volts under 12 . Boosted it fired up but when you revved it the voltage across the bat ( had a voltmeter on ) stayed as is or just carried on creeping down = Alternator feed stopped . I have seen a few threads and the bracket needs to come off etc and reverse that bolt for the next guy . Some one has kindly done that so no S shaped obstruction spanner’s needed . Just pulled the coolant pipe for greater access ( via the wheel well ) and this dropped out of the top end . Image Unavailable, Please Login looks like a part of this below Image Unavailable, Please Login Should I be concerned ? Or what else is it was lodged at the top of the AL down pipe ? Thx Cars cooling runs fine btw had it out in 38 * C recently no issues .
Removed the wheel arch liner the AL coolant pipe for better access . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login This is what you are faced with .The bottom bolts a19 mm and thankfully it’s path of withdrawal is outwards .Previous threads talk about S shaped obstruction spanner’s ( wrenches ) to remove the bracket . You can reach under with a 19 ring spanner to hold the nut while ratcheting it loose . The upper is 17 mm and you can 1/4 or 1/8 turn it loose and off .That’s the tensioner bracket .Same 17 mm for the tensioner nut btw . Both those two ( on my 77 GT 4 ) did not need anything grabbing from the other end .The adjuster has a traditional sq slot into it bracket . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I loosened the AC belt tensioner to get more play in pushing that belt aside .You don’t need to disturb the AC pump . Image Unavailable, Please Login Fortunately the 19 pivot bolt had been put back the other way so it just slid out .Read horror stories guys having to cut them or torch / burn them out . Image Unavailable, Please Login Easily manoeuvres out no knuckle skin loss or any blood shed etc .Rested on a bucket to ease the strain on the wire connections. 4 x 10 mm bolts to remove the heat shield. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Regular S No s . Image Unavailable, Please Login The electrical connections were one yellow wire on a spade …^ image it’s been pulled off and another secured with 10 mm bolt . Image Unavailable, Please Login Tools used next to there fixings Image Unavailable, Please Login
More pics …..may help someone? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Google shopped around , thought about refurnish , maybe it’s just the regulator. I wasn’t getting the “ G “ red light so never knew there was a problem until about 2 hrs into a run . It’s kept on a trickle charger so always was setting off with 13-14 V .Motor dies at 11 volts . I have the exact voltage at the wire that bolts on as across the bat terminals so presume a good bat connection there ? In the end for the sake of £195 just bought new . Did Google the Bosch serial No and the price varied from £350 - £750 ( if they got wind of Ferrari tax ) I can’t be bothered trampling around car parts outfits to find investigating compatibility etc to save tuppence and risk it does not fit . So I have put my faith in SP . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Took me about 1 hr to get it off btw .Never removed one BTW bit of a novice at this all tips n hints welcome.
You are going to need puller to break the pulley loose. As far as the nut holding the pulley on... US Delco alternators have a hex allen hex hole in the end of the shaft you use to keep the shaft from turning while you use a box or open end wrench on the nut. I would check to see if yours has that. Other than that, I have heard an air impact wrench can break that nut loose without fixing the shaft in position. Doug
Impact wrench worked , Tnx guys and surprisingly the pulley and fan just slid off .I had WD 40 s it all overnight . The bits have been in a ultrasonic bath with caustic soda , then liquid soap to clean them up . New alternator should arrive tomorrow. Just one further Q guys …..do I need to remove those studs that hold the circular heat shield in place ? Or does the new one come with them , it’s not clear from the SP web site image of the Bosch 308/208 70 s alternator. Image Unavailable, Please Login Bolt is a 22 mm holding it all on . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Those 4 studs ^^^ , I got the bush out of bottom bolt I can see they arrive undressed .
Another tip: then though you're replacing the alternator, consider finding a good local shop that specializes in rebuilding. Have them do this (and they can test the output), then either keep as a spare or sell it on ebay. Originals are sometimes difficult to find, or expensive. BTW: Small misleading words on my previous post - the new unit MAY come with studs long enough that the shield mounts to, as those studs also connect the main halves of the housing together. But, some units use a shield, and others have a sort of "exhaust port cover" which uses a hose to direct the air out. When I rebuilt mine, I had to reuse this rear cover.
New one arrived this afternoon. The mount width as different and the stub axial where you bolt the wheel inset more .It’s a “GFQ made in Italy “55 W . Jaws wider than the OEM Bosch . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login The yellow exciter wire needed an extension to fit its spade on the alternator. There is a plastic cover / heat shield .So you don’t need to bolt back the alloy one that came off the Bosch . Image Unavailable, Please Login So the bigger jaws of the lower fixation open up a variable in / out position. Out ^^ Image Unavailable, Please Login In ^^ . Image Unavailable, Please Login So I used a straight edge to line up 4 sides ( 2x2 ) of the pulleys , and the water pump higher to find which place was the best aligned .Turned out the “ IN “ was correct no shims needed . Image Unavailable, Please Login The 19mm bolt through and nut reached up from underneath by your right arm and hand . Image Unavailable, Please Login Water pipe back .You have a bit of manoeuvring room to get it set .Idea is push it into to the car to get rubbers plenty of overlap and at the same time not too far in as you need clearance from the alternator belt and it’s pulley . I had to improvise with the adjustment bolt on the rack .The OEM one with the nice Sq section that fits the rack grove wouldn’t go in. It was as if the belt was about van inch too small in circumference.When prised on it was tight pushing the new alternator towards the engine .I used a smaller bolt with washers to get something through the adjustment rack and alternator hole at its adjustment position. Sure I loosened the bracket support ( 17 mm ) attempting to jiggle the OEM in , but it wasn’t wanting to go .The belt was so tight I could hardly pull / swing the thing down and away .
It’s been sat on a trickle charger .Disconnected the bat terminal V was 13.5 . I turned over the motor about 5 strokes without choke to circulate the water pump .Checked the exp tank level still 1/2 full . Eye balled the belts .Nothing obvious. Then got the wife out . The batt voltage had dropped to 12.5 V . It’s a 208 GT 4 identical to other carbed 3 series except the cylinders have been sleeved down to 2.0 L and it on 34 Webbers . Contrary to popular F folk law of the 3.0 not needing choke , The 2.0 L actually does . So full choke , wait for the fuel pump sound to change to fill the float chambers and it fired up .Quickly reduce , stop the choke ( once it running ) within 10 secs . Low and behold the ref G light came on with the ignition waiting for the carbs to fill . I haven’t seen that for while running about with a bad alternator. Wife said still 12.5 v at the batts , I revved it up a few times , still red G light on and 12.5 volts at the batt . After about 30-60 secs the red G goes out wife shouts it 14.5 v now .. Eureka we have alternator V at the batt terminals. Expecting a belt to fly off I jumped out ( car still in Jack stands wheel off and liner not put back ) Mrs sat in and revved it while I watched carefully at the pulleys and belts inc the AC which I had previously loosened its tensioner to gain better access to the adjustment bracket bolt . All ok . Buttoned it all back up drove it out of the garage turned it around ( slight slope ) so the front rad is higher . Bleed air out of the rad bleeder and burped it . Checked for weeps and seeps around where the coolant pipe was .None . From the top looking inside the engine compartment you can see the alignment of the belt and even all three pulleys to check for trueness of the dial when the motors running .Looked bang on .Turned the AC on to load its belt = ok .Remember this belt was loosened . Left over I have the AL heat shield , and the OEM adjustment bolt . I will follow advice on here and send the OEM Bosch away to be re manufactured…….keep as spare .
I had an alternator issue several years ago and the car would run like crap below 3000 rpm. Pull out the alternator, disassembled and cleaned it and replaced the voltage regulator. Car has run perfect since. I would not part with that original alternator. They are expensive and really should not have issues other than the V. regulator. (Which I got from a BMW shop after researching the right updated Bosch replacement) going south. Get one and have the original as a spare.
Generally any alternator shop, or yourself can rebuild an alternator. It bearings, brushes and voltage regulator. The stator or rotor rarely fail, as long as they show continuity, they are good. And check the rectifier bridge to make sure the diodes are good. You just need to know the secret to holding the brushes back as you install the rear case. You will probably see a small hole for pin to slip through to hold brushes rearward while case is installed, once in position, remove the pin and the brushes snap into place. I do not buy "rebuilt" alternators because they usually fail shortly due to not all parts replaced or the rebuilder uses cheapo stuff. If the factory will refurb yours and return the one you sent in, that works, its just more expensive. Doug
I don't find rebuilding the alternator itself to be much of a mechanical task, but finding the correct bearings was not fun. It probably took me longer to find the parts, than it actually took me to take the thing apart and rebuild it.
Bearings feel fine .It’s dirty / black dust everywhere. I had the brush thing out and they have plenty of life in them , the springs are good .I might clean it and replace those black boxes at the back .The generator light never came on when it was in failure mode and unfortunately I never missed it . How ever the new ones doing well the car fires up faster and runs better feels more eager and powerful . I guess a 14 V + batt feeding the coils produces a better spark than a 12.7 reducing every minute to 10.7 and conking out . Will test it all out in Oct .
Just to wrap this up I dismantled the old one .Ultra sonic bath in caustic soda solution seemed to remove the grease . Reassembled, sos not to loose anything . I did have continuity before but zero volts when hand spinning . Image Unavailable, Please Login Before ^ Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login After .I did repack the bearings with CV black grease .It spins easy wasn’t rattling. Now hand spinning produces 2 V . The brushes were like new . I think the issue was who ever rebuilt last stuffed car too much grease in the rear bearing and it coated everything internally . Anyhow keep it as a spare and get it fully tested should it be required. Thx everyone for the advice.
