Tips on starting a 308 GTB with carburetors

I guess they are all different. You just got to know your own car and figure out what works best on them.

On mine, cold starting is easy: turn key to on, but not start. The pump is now running.

Then give it two pumps of the throttle, to squirt in a load of fuel through the accelerator pumps.

Depress the throttle pedal a bit and turn the key. She'll start right up. Every time.

Hot starts are a lot harder. No priming done here, and just a bit more of cranking until she fires.

But you just got to figure out what works on YOUR car....

Good luck!

Hans

 

As above and do not use the choke / cold start lever

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117485

 

agree, and well said,

for hot starts i always cracked the throttle as i turned the key, and the cars would "roar" a bit as they started. you dont want to flood tt, just add a bit more air as the car is turning over.

 

I just turn the key on and waith for the "seatbelt" red light to time out. That gives the fuel pump enough time to make sure all the bowls are full. Then put the peddle to the floor twice and turn the key to start. As the engine catches then feather the throttle keeping rpm's to 1500. Works all of the time and after about 30 sec's then let off of the throttle and it will idle at about 800-900rpm's until the water temp starts to move. I would say within 2 minutes it should be ideling at 1000. When I do winter starts (10-20*) it takes a little longer for it to get to 1000rpm. As to hot starts I use 2 approaches. When getting gas or making a quick stop I don't use the throttle to do a re-start. Just turn the key and wait for seatbelt light and then turn to start. When I leave the car for 1/2 hour or more on a warm day (70-90*) I still wait for the seatbelt light and then feather the throttle while starting. That's my approach and it works pretty good. After I got the cat I used the choke once and then disconnected it. It was a pain to pull the plugs and dry them out , HAHAHA. Good luck

 

These guys are telling it correctly..

Wait almost 30 seconds for the carbs to fill, two or three peddle depressions then crank it..throttle slightly depressed and ready to accelerate RPMs...

Several tips from the actual 1976 -77 Owner's Manual:


Warm up RPM is ok at 3,000....yep, 3K...the neighbors will love you for it!

IF the engine does NOT start, avoid constant cranking on the starter, you should wait a minute or so to let the armature cool down before trying again......

HTH.

 

If the car has been sitting a while recharging the battery the night before makes things a lot easier.

 

Must be great for those crack-of-dawn drives.

My neighbor thinks my 328 is loud...

 

Each one of you have it correctly. I have the same engine, but GT4. Key on, wait for thirty seconds of clicking.
Two depressions of the throttle, key to start, half depression while turning over.

Works everytime. Hot starts are ok for me. Never had an issue. If the car has been sitting for quite some time,
this process may take several iterations. NO CHOKE.

Do not race the engine after a cold start, as this will wear the internal goodies out faster over time,
UNLESS you have a pre-lube system. Enjoy the ride.

Cheers

 

+1 to all the guys above, except I've always done 3 squirts and have used this same starting technique on every Italian car I've owned (and I've only ever owned Italian cars!)

 

I do the same procedure except that when I'm cranking the engine I step on the gas and then it starts right up. When it's cold outside, below 50* F, I give it an extra pump on the gas before I turn the engine over.

Bob

 

I second the procedure described by Hans and all the others. I am always amazed how easily the car starts, even after sitting unused for a few months.

There is one other thing I do when the engine is cold: before giving it two or three pumps of the throttle, to squirt in a load of fuel through the accelerator pumps, I let the engine crank for a while with the starter, without touching the throttle pedal, until the oil pressure gauge starts to move (the engine won't start without the fuel squirts). My assumption is that it's good to have some oil pressure built up, before the engine actually starts. Of course this procedure is not recommended with a weak battery.

Any opinions if this does make sense?

Robert

 

Hmm, interesting ... for me I let the gas pump work for a little while and then I turn over the key as I lightly tap the gas pedal - poof, poof, poof .. my 76 308 seems to like that approach.

 

It's nice to see that I'm not the only one having to figure out how to start properly. Haven't found the ideal way yet but this thread will certainly help. I didn't figure that it should take about 30 seconds to let the pumps work. I kinda like it when they make that wirring sound, so I'm okay with that. Makes starting a nice ritual (the start of a thrilling experience) and not just an afterthought.

 

Yep agree with most of that. Turn the key, let the pump run for about 5 secs, give one or two pedal pumps and she should start like a demon.
Can't see why you should let the pump run for 30 secs.
I have just replaced my Fuel lines with the Cavis hose from Superformance.
It is see-through. You should see how quick the fuel actually flows through these lines @ normal pressure. I can't see that it needs 30secs to fill the bowls.
Also I would suggest that for you guys that can't take the car out for months because of the weather that you don't leave it sitting around for two months between startup. Try and run the car at least every two weeks to keep everything lubed and get the moisture out of the engine.
Lucky for us in Australia we can drive it every day and in fact winter is just as good as summer.

Steve

 

Firstly welcome sphillips to F-Chat. Its a great community.

I turn my ignition on and let the pump go for 10-15 seconds. I actually then fully depress the accelerator to ensure the carbi's are full then turn her over. When she starts I release it and let her idle for a few minutes to get some heat.

Something else worth considering is that with these cars 2nd is used a lot and the syncro's have been made tight. Many owners change from 1st to 3rd for the first few km's/miles until the gearbox is warm. Going into 2nd can be a bit tight when cold.

 

'77 carb GTB - cold start; turn on the key and listen to the pumps run. When I hear what sounds like an air bubble as the tanks equalize (between 7 and 10 seconds) I then stab the throttle 3xs and then crank. It usually starts; then I feather the throttle to keep it running at low RPM until the oil pressure gauge shows pressure, then I rev it to 1500rpm or so and let it idle until warm. Sometimes it dies and I restart it. Warm starts I just turn the key with no throttle until it starts then I let it idle. This has worked for 22 years.

 

All the same and all a little different;

Cold: fuel pump on for 10 seconds or so, two or three pumps to encourage the accelerator pumps into action, turn key to start WITHOUT touching pedal, add a little throttle to get to 1500rpm or so, allow to idle back (no pedal) after oil proessure shows on gauge.

Hot: no delay, no pump, no added throttle, turn key to start, drive away.

Yep. All the same and all different. Kinda like, well, I won't say it.

rick - with a pile of carbed cars

 

Hi Steve, indeed you Australians are lucky to have nice weather all year round, not to mention the beauty of your country.

In my opinion the stress (engine wear) of one cold start every two weeks, without having the chance to actually drive the car and bring the engine to operating temperature, is worse than having it sitting for a few months without starting the engine at all. When I let the engine run for only a short time, the exhaust remains full of humidity, which will result in corrosion. Of course a short squirt of engine conservant oil in each cylinder through the spark plug holes could be helpful, before starting the 'winter break'.

But I totally agree that the best thing for the engine is to regularly drive the car!

In the end, everyone has to find his own 'best way'. As Rick said: All the same and all different.

Regards, Robert

 

Using the clutch when starting does nothing but increase wear on the crankshaft main thrust bearings as they are not yet seeing oil on a cold start.

It IS a good practice from a safety point of view, so you have to choose your priorities. I always start my older cars without using the clutch and with the handbrake set to achieve both benefits.

 

What does the clutch have to do with starting? Safety point of view? Both benefits? I’m sorry, but what are you talking about?

 

Answers a lot of Questions .

 

Depressing the clutch during starting (on a car that has a rotating throw-out bearing) reduces the starter current draw by ~70A and helps the starter spin the engine a little faster. Auto Manufacturers usually specify having the transmission in neutral and depressing the clutch (that way, if the clutch has failed, the car won't lurch forward when starting).

 

Well that’s why I love F-Chat.

 

The clutch has nothing to do with starting, which was the main point of my first sentence, perhaps not clearly stated. The safety point of view is that when starting a car with the clutch disengaged (pedal depressed) you eliminate the risk of the car lurching forward because it was in gear when you thought it wasn't. The two benefits of starting the car with the parking brake on but without the pedal depressed (and the car in presumed neutral) is that the thrust bearing is not impacted AND if the car does happen to actually be in gear you'll not get a start/lurch. I'll try to be less Boolean next time.