Hi guys, Today I was driving quietly my car, after 5 minutes I stop in town and I put my car on "N" as usual. Suddenly I realize that the "N" blinking. There are no other lights on cluster instruments, only the "N" blinking. When I leave 10 minutes later, the car runs normally all day. Do you have any idea why the "N" blinking suddenly? - 6% clutch - F1 pump is new - pressure accumulator is new - level in oil F1 tanks is perfect. Thanks a lot
That is usually an engagement issue .. I would do a relearn first , then a true actuator bleed ..but before everything else pull codes ..it could be the potentiometers ...in a rare case a engagement solenoid as well How many miles Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
It has 14900 miles, 2005. Yesterday I did a relearn: everything goes well for the engagement of the 6 gears, except that at the end of the relearn the N blinks instead of staying fixed??????
I would.pull codes and check grid alignment using a good diag tool to see if actuator has to be re-aligned with jig Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Dan has a good video of his 430 selecting neutral after a quick stop from 60 mph. It shows how to do the bleed of the actuator and the calibration.
Mike I think Dan misguides people sometimes. yes the video is good to show the bleed and a self-learn ( which BTW the OP did a self-learn already) . The Calibration step is wrong. The calibration / centering needs to be done off car with a jig and a feeler gauge. Not sure what the launch calibration function does other then center the actuator for it be be centered by the procedure I mentioned. To know if you need a centered , the SD tool shows off-center parameter and data to create a engagement grid. With these data items you will know if a centering is needed Sometimes I wonder if Dan makes mistakes to correct later on and make another video .. I appreciate what he is doing for the Ferrari Comm but very often his process is flawed or incomplete
His accumulator replacement was a bit different as he was using the bleed on the side of the gear box, but you get the general idea. The actuator one was a good pointer if you had not done one, but i must admit i was getting a bit lost towards the end. For some reason his launch calibration seem to work as the gearbox was working, but i was lost by then
Thank you for all this valuable information. Do you have a video or other documents, to know how to align an actuator. I'm not going to do it myself because I don't have the knowledge and the tools. But just out of curiosity. I have already made an appointment with my Ferrari specialist and I will give him your information...
Here is a video ..13.07 will talk to the centering ..before that you will see the bleed Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Having looked at the video it explains a lot, but Dan did not have to adjust the actuator as he just dropped it off the gearbox and opened the bleeds. He was using the original actuator position so as i see it the alignment/ calibration was not needed. This guy has swapped parts in the actuator so hence the alignment- i got a bit lost on his measurements and how he altered it by 0.23 mm, was that adjusted by letting the bolt off and sliding the part along the shaft. He seem to have jumped along a bit
But in the case of the OP after looking at codes , and data stream from the SD tool it may come down to a alignment like I'm the video. I did a search and it seems like it was common issue in early model f430 Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Would be nice to see a SD printout of the data stream in tcu .. there is an "off center " item which would tell us slot Also building a engagement grid with min and max and actual numbers will also shed slot of light Sounds like the dealer will need to do these things unless the code comes back with a potentiometer issue Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
F430 + Blinking gear display = Potentiometers in almost all cases. It's such a big problem that the factory have ran out of sensors. They have a mechanical arm which wears out and can also get oil contaminated. In this case the car may struggle on for a little while with a self learn but I would start searching for a pair of pots now. Part #248095
I take it that if you have to replace one of the flexy hoses to the actuator, you would then open the 3 bleed screws and then run the gearbox through the gears to get any air out.
You would turn the screws two turns and run the bleed cycle on a diagnosis tool Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk