Squeaky noise when accelerating, coasting and turning left

Did you buy it from a Dealer ? Is so go see them. Is that 20,000 kms ?

 

I had to apply the brake bedding procedure to get rid of this. There are a number of threads on it. The challenge is finding a road where you can brake from 80 mph down to 5 mph safely.

 

link for that?

 

• Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don't need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.
• Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It's important to note that you don't come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.
• The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.
• You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.
• Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.

 

thanks!

 

Your pads may be worn.

But also, where do you live? High humidity tends to create rust and will increase the chances of brake squeal.

 

Where did you get that procedure from? This is not what Pagid reccomends. It is a compound made and developed by Pagid for Brembo, so the Pagid procedure is the one to follow. It is the same as that used for RSC1.

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It is also important to strèss that the car should NEVER come to a complete stop during a bed in. This can cause shudder and harmonics in the brakes.

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How much pad is left front and rear? Should be 3mm or more.

If you have glazing, you can try the Pagid bed in procedure. They are the manufacture of the pad compound after all so they know what is what.

Are you okay with some simple wrenching on the car? If so, you can try and add a bit of high temp brake paste to the back plate of the pads.

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I may be wrong, but I was under the understanding that OEM pads were not Pagid.

I am familiar with Pagid Racing Brake Pad procedure, but I'm not sure that's what on the 488. Happy to be corrected if wrong.

 

The front compound is a compound similar to RSC1, but a lower cost version. This compound is developed and manufactured by Pagid for Brembo. Brembo get the material in "bulk" and they mount it to their backing plates.
The rear compound is to the best of my recollection actual RSC1 compound with Brembo backing plates. It may also be a variant, but I recall it being RSC1. Brembo does not manufacture anything but the backing plates.

The exact compound is the T4300 and is in fact a co-development between Textar and Pagid. If the rears are not RSC1, they are T4300.

So yes, the bedding in procedure is for all intended purposes the same as RSC1. I have done it many times and it is far superior imo to most other methods. The odd 200 km of "easy breaking" bedding in, I find only serves to glaze both pad and rotor, so not sure what that is all about.

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@OP did you ever find root cause? 2016 488 spider here with same symptoms. Top down, windows down, no brakes applied, rolling at parking lot speed up to about 30 mph and I can hear a cyclical metallic squeal coming from the left side of the car. Imo it would be something with suspension or wheel assembly because squeal pulsing is a function of how fast wheels are turning and it isn’t coming from the rear/engine bay.

A search here on “squeal” turns up a few threads where folks say the squeal is indeed brakes due to either pre loading and/or some imperfection in a rotor that is cyclically making contact with a pad. The latter is supposed to be fixed with bedding. Having trouble buying into the former or latter, but I don’t have any way to prove my theories either.


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same issue here - however it only happens when turning the wheel left softly. I thought wheel bearing since turning the wheel wouldn't change the position of the brakes to the calipers, interesting that others seem to have similar issues and solved with brake bedding

 

I’m new to the forum. Just purchased a 2017 488 GTB. Having the same squeal noise when slow rolling and no brakes applied up to 25 mph or so. I thought I saw somewhere that silicone and harsh cleaning chemicals are bad for the rotors and pads. So was curious on what brake paste to use. Also I notice that my front left tire is about 20 degrees hotter than the front right. The rear tires are about 3 degrees apart. The fronts were 145 degrees and 125 degrees. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

I noticed my front left running 15-20 degrees F hotter too— I assumed this was bc of the extra weight from me as a single passenger in the car.


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More likely the heat from the left radiator in front of the wheel.


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Pagid’s method assumes a track, not street. The method posted above is probably ok for street. Just don’t cause an accident. The idea is to cook off manufacturing residue and transfer a very thin, even layer of pad material to the discs. The pad-to-pad material interface mates better and is quieter. Over time with light use, the pad material on the disc is rubbed away, so you may need to do this again. Heavier use will tend to continue to deposit/replenish the pad material, but on the street, heavy use could get you rear-ended.
Here is the Pagid method.

https://www.pagidracing.com/files/Public/Downloads/PAGID-Racing-Flyer_Bedding-In_web.pdf


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No, it's the radiator placement. Adjust your tyre pressures so they are equal at temp. Best way to do this is to drive the car normally. Then you can see the left pressure climb a bit more due to the temp difference. Take your pressure gauge and measure the right tyre. Then adjust the left tyre down so that it matches the right. Don't rely on the TPMS for this, use a proper gauge. The small temp difference is not an issue from a handling perspective, but the pressure difference can be. It's not dangerous, it's just a matter of getting the best from your car.

 

The Pagid method is pretty easy on the freeway actually. I've done it a lot - it sucks a bit when using RSL1 pads, because they need more stops with a bit more speed. Once you get the hang of it, you realize how quick it is. And trust me, nobody is going to rear end you when you break hard from 110 mph to 60 and then immediately floor it again. Bast advice for someone who does this for the first time is this. Bring a "spotter" in the passenger seat. He can keep an eye out for traffic and call out speeds, and you can just focus on the driving.

Regarding what happens when you drive easy. You are actually not really wearing the material off the disc- that's not what causes the squeal. You are in fact glazing the pads as the soft breaking "polishes" the surface, which aside from making it overly smooth also hardens it.
Once you get real glazing you will need to do a new bedding in, but this time you need more stops and higher speeds. You cannot use 5-6 stops from 110 mph, now you need 10+ stops from 130 mph. This is why it is a good idea to "maintain" your pads by doing two hard high speed stops twice per week, i.e four times per week. That will actually maintain the pads really well and keep the glazing to a minimum.

 

Pagid RSC1 pads make less noise than stock pads, so switch to those.
If you don't like that idea, try a hard bedding. Your pads are glazed, so you need to "clean" them off properly.
But the reality is that the Brembo CCM rotors are not very quiet. Old technology discs with old technology pads.

Want quiet? Surface Transforms discs and RSC1 pads.

 

I am amazed at these procedures. 10+ consecutive stops from 130 mph must produce gargantuan rotor, pad and bearing temperatures. I'm sure it will take it as many have done it and probably similar to track use. If you did that to a normal car they'd probably catch fire!

 

It is,actually less than one might think. Due to the glazing, friction is reduced, so the first few stops generates surprisingly little heat. You do get the discs glowing a bit, but only at the last 2-3 stops, and it is not a bright orange- just a dull glow. That is why such drastic measures are needed.

When I do the normal proceedure with 5 stops from 115 to 60, I often use 7 stops, because it is only on the forth or fifth stop I start to smell the brakes. This may sound odd, but the smell is actually the best indicator that you are burning off paint from the pad and gas out the material in the pad. These brakes can take a lot, and they need this to really come alive.

I've done an interestin torture test of the ST discs, RSL1 race pads, and SRF fluid. 5 stops from 300 kph to 20 kph. 770 degrees on the discs. No fires and no change in pedal feel. Now that the Brembos would not like, but they are still very temp resistant.

Don't worry about pads catching on fire- they usually do during bedding, so nothing to worry about. A real pad fire only happes if you stop the car as air stops moving, but the fire is what burns off pad paint, gasses etc. Burn baby burn!


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Did you ever figure out what was causing the squeal? My 2017 488 GTB has the same problem.


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