348 - Quirks and Features | Page 2 | FerrariChat

348 Quirks and Features

Discussion in '348/355' started by ChoonHound, Oct 22, 2022.

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  1. ChoonHound

    ChoonHound Formula 3
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    Oh, it’s definitely not on the diagrams. I guess I’m wondering if it was some common dealer added flourish or something. It’s an odd thing to add imo.




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  2. Ferrarium

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    #27 Ferrarium, Oct 24, 2022
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2022
    Yep probably added. People add things to the consoled. I agree the metal on the leather is odd, the cavallino looks fine on the plastic like ashtray, the 355 has the crossed flags on the ashtray. But on the leather in metal like that is odd. Better embroidered or something. It also looks way bigger than the ashtray one. Not even sure they make one that big. But who knows maybe they had it added as dealer option or something. Definitely not on parts diagrams I just checked too.
     
  3. ChoonHound

    ChoonHound Formula 3
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    Wish me luck with some fishing line and some patience.
     
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  4. Ferrarium

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    Maybe a little heat, heat gun type on low. Should clean up with goo gone or what not.
     
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  5. ChoonHound

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  6. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

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    I watched and listened to the video.
    First thing is, I dont think its the Flywheel causing the difficulty in starting at all, you can rule that out. Its also not a problem with the starter relay and does not require any aftermarket mod.

    Things to check and do would be;
    *Check the IACV (idle air control valves) Electrical connections and operation should be confirmed.
    *Remove and clean the throttle bodies.
    *Remove and clean the MAF's, (you can get some cleaner specifically for cleaning them, dont use anything else, never touch the wire!!)
    *Replace the O2 sensors, these are often overlooked and can cause all sorts of hot start, hot idle, light throttle issues.
    *Clean, lubricate, set up the throttle linkage. (not that this causes hot start issues, but I'll bet the linkages have old hard grease, rather than nice soft grease which lubricates the extensive linkage mechanism)
    *Set up and balance the throttle bodies and idle in accordance with the manual.

    With the heater controls. Instead of randomly pushing all the switches, try this.
    1, Push HEAT (before anything else), when you do, this activates the system and you can then use the controls to direct the air, adjust the temp, and adjust the fan speed.
    2, The try the AC and do the same things as above. Dont rush anything, push the switches and wait for the action to happen.
    3, When the car is in VENT mode, which is the switch on the bottom left and has the vent arrow on it, this disables/turns off the heating and AC system. All it does in this mode is vent air into the car.
    4, It looked to me like you might have not quite understood how that system works with all the random button pushes and so forth. Its a bit quirky and reminds me of Lancia's and Fiats of the same era but does work. Yes the system can fail, and sometimes they do, but not always that productive to jump to and assume the worst case scenario.
    Let us know how that goes for you.
     
  7. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Cleaning the MAF-s is probably unnecessary because they have a built-in self cleaning function - after every engine switch off, the MAF wire is "light up" (like a bulb) for about 4 sec. which heats the wire to some 1200C burning off any contamination.
     
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  8. Ferrarium

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    I watched the video, Kevin is right the AC panel seems fine, but when you push a button it takes a few seconds for the corresponding servos or switches to react. Its 30 years old processors were slow then.

    And yes you have no flywheel repack or wr1 relay needs at all. First thing to check is the crank sensors and possibly the cam phase sensor. The crank sensors are super easy to do. Never seen 02 sensor prevent firing, but maybe. Once fired it runs rough at idle especially when cats get above 300 degrees.

    Here is the order I would go checking for progress each step, or check confirm pressure voltage of each before replacing. I just replaced it all nyself.
    • Throttle bodies cleaned and adjust the air bypass screws, people tend to fiddle with those for some reason
    • Crank sensors new and adjusted
    • Coolant Temp sensors new
    • Fuel pressure regulators new
    • Relays new
    • Coils & igniters new
    • Fuel pumps new
     
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  9. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

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    They don't, but if they are faulty, and it is a strong possibility if they have never been replaced, then the engine will not be delivering the correct fuel, either too much or not enough....then the engine wont fire. I am pretty sure this is what mine was doing, no more random hot start issues by simply replacing the O2 sensors.
    I did all the other things I mentioned whilst the O2 sensors were in transit.
    The coolant temp sensors are a good one to do....
     
  10. Ferrarium

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    Interesting yes, that's news to me, I know once it fires it idles horrible but 02 and hot start failure to fire is Interesting to hear. Thanks.

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  11. ChoonHound

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  12. ChoonHound

    ChoonHound Formula 3
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    No, no… you guys are a little confused. In THIS video you can see the panel misbehaving while engine running:




    In THIS video you can see the panel behaving fine while car NOT RUNNING and key set to accessory:

    https://youtube.com/shorts/8cQta29JGq4?feature=share




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  13. Ferrarium

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    While running the lighting blinks on and off, sounds like connection issue triggered by vibration, likely corrosion or similar. There are threads on cleaning the connections on the back of the HVAC unit, I'd start there as its easy enough.
     
  14. ChoonHound

    ChoonHound Formula 3
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    Yes, exactly.
     
  15. KevZep

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    Oh I see now, yes, looks like you have some bad connections, agree with Mr Ferrarium, this would be the first thing to do.
     
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