Hello , Recently i get the fault code P1635 and check engine light on . Now say's my TEXA Diagnostic tool that this is in ECU Bank1 . But here on the forum i read that bank1 is the right bank and that fault code P1635 is related to the left bank . So i'm a bit confused . I think it's the throtle valve issu l. When contact on and pushing the pedal to the floor the throtlevalves acting weerd . ( see video : ) And this is the video of my faultcode in " bank 1 " and it shows also that in bank 2 are no faults . Can anybody help me out to be 100% sure in witch ecu sits my problem ? ( Left or Right one ) And the solution to the problem ...
You're not the only one who has had problems understanding P1635: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/144938937/ Both Texa and Ferrari have strange descriptions for P1635: (Ferrari) "Monitoring Function: 2-ECU-Concept (Bank 2)" (Texa) "Check of CAN ECU bank 1 from (B2*) signals" *B2 = bank 2? Both you and @KILOCHARLIE seem to have throttle problems (but he seemed only to have problems on one side). Sometimes a flickering throttle can be caused by a faulty capacitor in the ECU, but I wouldn't expect both ECUs to have the same internal ECU problem. YouTuber "samcrac" says that flickering can be caused by the ECU caught up in a "boot loop". See the last 5 minutes of this video: Have you tried turning off the battery for a while? Because both throttle bodies ("valves") are affected, perhaps the throttle pedal potentiometer is faulty? This only talks to the RH ECU, so the throttle command data has to go from the RH ECU to the LH ECU to allow the LH ECU to control the LH throttle "valve". Maybe this is why bank 1 and bank 2 are mentioned in the fault?
I only get a fault in B1. In B2 there are no faults. Did disconnect the battery ( switch under hood ) for more than a week but no change . I can erase the fault p1635 but after a restart it’s back in.
After seeing your video, i do have to say that we jumpstarted the car some months ago , directly on the battery.
First, jump starting a 355 and 360 Ferrari is a very risky thing to do. It tends to cause electronic damages to the airbag system on the 355 and the ECU on the Ferrari. Second, the code 1635 is generated by the left bank (bank 2) ECU. Very little information is available on it other than it is a Monitoring function (likely a self-test function that is run at the start up sequence) for mechanical engineering features. The failure of said monitoring routine causes bank 2 ECU to raise the 1635 code. Third, for purposes of OBD code reading by an official computer such as a California State Board Air Resources Smog Test Station, all OBD codes related to smog and ignition are readable from only Bank 1. So, the two ECUs do share some information. (Maybe error codes are stored in one common memory area and Bank 1 ECU reads all codes and reports to the smog computer on request). That is why you don't need to request codes from Bank 2 to see its error codes. Fourth, there is more than a dozen error codes related to electronic throttle functions because it is an important function. It seems highly improbable that all you have is one mechanical monitoring function code (1635) if there are actual problems with the throttle bodies or throttle pedal. So given the information available at this time, your jump starting the car has caused some electrical fault in the system related to a mechanical monitoring function. It is fairly well known that throttle plates can cause ECU problem due to over-driving the power sources inside the ECU. Neither problem (ECU or Throttle plate) is an easy or cheap fix, but this is one of the Achilles heels for the 360. Other Ferraris have their own achilles heels, this is yours. Most data is pointing to your bank 2 ECU to be the issue. How to proceed. 1. Swapping ECU left to right to see if the problem follows the ECU or stays with the body. This has its own issues with the Immobilizer functionality where the immo code is permanently written into the ECU memory. You may or may not have to re-virginize the affected ECU again. 2. Buying one or two ECUs for the 360 of the correct version, re-virginze it (you need help on this), and swap out your own ECUs to see if the problem goes away. New ones are NLA 3. Remove your ECUs and have them rebuilt without messing with the ECU codes. There are some people out there that claim to know how to fix common issues with 360 ECUs and they will replace those common failing components. This may or may not be your issues and therefore is spotty at best. A person I know is having issues with his ECUs in very similar way, with a different code, possibly related to the failing throttle plate, and is driving around with another set of ECU. Good luck. All I can tell you is this will get expensive. Contact trev360 if you need an expert opinion on things 360 ECUs.
First , thanks yelcab for taking the time for this long explanation ☺️. The strange thing is this “jumpstart” thing was months ago … so why does it fries the ecu after so many time. That’s strange to me. Unfortunately i did not read the not jumpstart your 360 story before . also , i read a lot on clicking throttle valves. But mine don’t do that when running stationary. The do act strange when at wot when engine not running. But when engine is running , you can’t hold the revs at 2000rpm by the gaspedal. They drop and go back up al the time. I will take contact with trev360. I saw a lot off people indeed who’s problems got fixed by him.
There is a clue in there somewhere. Even when the engine is not running, you are still able to test the functionality of the electronic throttle with the key on. With the pedal depressed all the way, there is a way to read the pedal value by the computer - scanner. By comparing the value that you read vs the position of the throttle housing, you can infer something about the problem. In summary, your car is having problem keeping the throttle plate at the position other than idle (idle means throttle plates are all closed). That can only mean a couple of things: 1. Throttle position sensors are bad 2. Throttle plates driving circuit (inside the ECU) is bad.
+1 on swapping over the ecu’s to see if the problem swaps bank as well. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
But I don’t have one throttlebody that is “flapping”. They do it together. ( al videos i’f seen of a bad component in the ecu is it only one throttlebody that makes the flapping-noise) Good point to read out the pedal position and throttlebody’s possitions at the same time. Will check that as soon i get the time for it.
I just tested the throttle position sensors and the gas pedal sensor . ( see video , bolth recorded with the TEXA ) This is with the throttle pedal puched to the floor ( 100% throttle )
Strange. The pedal position is not flickering at all. It doesn't seem like a power issue as the throttle motors get power from their respective Motronic ECUs (i.e. separate power sources) If the pedal input is ok, the only common element is the RH ECU. Or are there other sensors which influence throttle position? I guess an ECU swap (as suggested) is the next step.
P1635 is definitely LH Bank 1 (P1628 is the corresponding code for RH Bank 2). How long have you had this car? Are you certain the 2 ECUs are running matched software? Do you know the full history of the car? Has the car ever had the software changed/tuned?
I have the car for 18 months now , but it was a 2end owner car ( so i'm 3th ) and original from the dealer close here . ( no import ) and the 2 previous owners always went to the same dealer from where the car was sold new . So 99% sure the didn't put a secondhand ecu in overthere . Also , the problem just begon now .
The right bank of the 360 is actually Bank 1. The left bank of the 360 is Bank 2. Which banks do you mean?
LH Bank (which in the actual Bosch firmware is labeled "LH Bank 1", but the software engineers could have made a mistake in the numbering?). Regardless the error is definitely occurring on the LH
Try and disconnect one throttle body. Then test..wide open see if just one continues to flicker..then do the next one. If it disappears on one or the other.. I would start chasing wires and grounds. Get some voltage measuring equipment in there and let's see what the power supplies are doing. Check the basics. Just MHO..
Ok , so got some spare time this evening ... I tried to disconect one throttle body like tbakowsky said, but then bolth don't work anymore ( Left or Right is the same effect ) Then i swapped the ecu's L to R , now i get the code P1628 instead off code P1635 ( and code P1630 : ECU Configuration check . But this i could clear and the car starts, so immo is ok . ) After this i was sure ( i taught ) it was my left ecu that gone bad because the fault follows this ecu from side . So i opened it , but all components are still well attached to the printplate . Image Unavailable, Please Login So , still no further with my problem . I did sent a pb to 360trev some day's ago , but didn't get a reply on it so far .
Some of the issues these ecu’s can experience aren’t just related to components becoming detached. The repairer that AV sends 360 ecu’s to replaces various capacitors anyway. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Its a well known issue in the Alfa Romeo area which similar skew (non compatible) ecu's Check out 3:25 into this video...
Sorry been super busy lately.. read my previous post and if your still stuck pm me again and I'll help out
Thanks , i will source a new capasitor online to try this. Already seen another “Alfa” movie where they solder 2 wires on the printplate and then the capacitor on it. ( printplate seems difficult to solder on )
Anybody has a link where to buy this capasitor ? ( don't find it myself directly on the web ) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thx , found it on there site . Already ordered https://benl.rs-online.com/web/p/tantalum-capacitors/5382874
31 error code,has anyone had this problem?? after a short drive the errors returned! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
