458 Tips for replacing 458 battery?

I’m going to replace the battery in my 458. It’s at least 4-5 years old and I’m getting some strange electrical errors lately that I’m hoping a new battery will resolve.

I searched but couldn’t find a step by step process for replacement anywhere.

Is there anything special I need to do before disconnecting/ reconnecting the new battery? I know the 430 had a relearn process. Does the 458 as well? Thank you.

 

Steps-
1) Call dealer service dept/manager
2) Make appointment
3) Drop off car
4) Take Uber and go eat lunch
5) Uber back to dealer
6) Pay dealer
7) Drive car home

 

I’m 2.5 hours from the nearest dealer so if this isn’t too complicated I’d rather do it myself.

 

Gotcha- Other more skilled DYIers on here by far than me but when mine went flat a few years ago I planned to swap it myself- (ended up using charger and local power source to get it started)- but it appeared to be straightforward with exception of having to remove the bar on top and obviously minimal room to work in- otherwise a basic swap- OBVIOUSLY note that the negative is on your LEFT when looking at the battery.

There are also steps you need to follow for the ECU to "relearn" settings etc and you may get done TFT errors the first few ignition cycles.

Again- I ended up not having to do it but the DEEP wealth of knowledge on here will no-doubt chime in.

Cheers and hope it goes smooth

 

My local dealer would bust out laughing at that time line. More like 6 weeks for my dealer, if you're lucky.

 

There is a magic sequence you're supposed to follow but I pulled my battery to get it tested and put it back without doing anything and the car didn't care. My only worry would be if the charging system adapts to new batteries like in newer BMWs, but I think we're lucky enough to be too old for that.

 

Magic Sequence below

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Check out the main sticky thread https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/most-458s-discussions.564954/, there are some step by step procedures. The battery in my car lasted eight years and my service advisor actually laughed when we opened the compartment and saw the original OEM battery.

 

Battery master switch, where is that?

 

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thanks- I watched that before posting. It doesn’t go over any master switch or relearning process

 

It's just the disconnect as far as I can tell- I wish it had a simple switch like 355/360/TR but does not

 

My 430 had a simple key switch in the frunk. I don't understand why they did away with that. It was an elegant solution.

 

Could NOT agree more! My 355 has a switch - works flawlessly / my 360 had a switch - worked flawlessly / my TR had a switch - worked flawlessly - 458 I have to use a local/portable power unit and direct-connect Battery Tender just to keep the battery topped off.

I suspect that the increased sophistication and integration/dependency on electronics in the later models is the reason for the lack of a switch - and as note in the other post there is a rather arduous process any time the battery is disconnected - so that probably explains it. But totally agree that having one would be beneficial.

Cheers

 

I replaced the battery in the 458. A simple thing I would suggest is a Schumacher Keep alive device Auto zone etc, or (https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SEC-12V-OBD-Memory-Saver-Adapter/dp/B009PHKPI6) and you wont have to worry about any relearn process, window position etc. just plug it into the OBD port and a power source (ie. a Jackery or starter pack) then open battery compartment.

You might have to loosen the crossbar above battery. Just remove the right socket head screw and loosen the left side then tilt up and away from battery .Disconnect the ground quick connect from the battery neg terminal. Lift up. Then loosen all battery clamps at the base & remove battery clamps. disconnect the Pos terminal connector with junction box attached and lift straight up. The big junction box will remain attached. Don't let it touch any metal If you can cover the Pos terminal with a plastic cap from the new battery to the old one. Slide it out. Put red cap on new battery. Slide it in. Remove cap, apply thin coat of dielectric grease to terminals. reconnect Pos terminal block 10 mm socket. reconnect neg quick clamp to neg terminal. Replace base clamps with nuts and bolts where appropriate.

If there are extra cables attached to the pos terminal aftermarket stereo etc, I made a terminal block from a copper tube crushed flat and drilled holes for bolts to attach to the pos. terminal mounting bolt. Made for a much neater wiring installation and allowed me to connect the charging cable and battery monitor noted below. You could also make one for the quick disconnect neg terminal if needed.

This is a good time to connect an extended charging cable for your battery tender and minder while there. I ran a charging wire extension under the carpet edge and around behind drivers seat for better access. also this is a worthwile device for monitoring everthing about your new battery (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Antigravity-Batteries-Bluetooth-Compatible/dp/B09W4R2L8P/ref=sr_1_4?crid=BU1LZAFX9E1P&keywords=bluetooth+battery+monitor+12v&qid=1671569966&s=automotive&sprefix=battery+bluetooth+monitor.,automotive,112&sr=1-4&th=1)
Also Apply new velcro tapes to upper edge of carpet battery flap door and frame and replace 6mm socket head screw to upper right corner. remove keep alive device and your done.

If you are not in a big hurry, If you would like I can lend you my keep alive device for postage and make some copper tabs if needed. PM me if needed.

 

Just swapped my 458 battery with all the confidence due to this post. Thanks everyone. Followed the suggestions and had zero problems. Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I keep a C-tek on mine at all times and car is in a climate controlled garage. Whenever the time comes to replace my battery I’m thinking if I move switch to “supply” on my C-tek that I can avoid the relearn process. Anyone please correct me if I’m wrong. Thanks


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It should work IF the Ctek supplies current without a voltage having to be present after the 12V battery is removed. Best to bench test the Ctek by itself in supply mode with a voltmeter to be sure. If it does supply voltage, as a power source would, then it should work. Just reconnect it to the cars charging port and proceed. However, be very careful with the car's positive terminal when maneuvering the battery in and out of the tray so that you don't ground/short circuit it to a metal chassis part accidentally, as it will be hot, will spark, and cause a voltage drop or spike which just might defeat the intended purpose in the first place, not to mention messing up some computers with voltages spikes, drops etc.

 

Thanks bro, just completed this thanks to you. Whoever designed some of this **** needs an exorcism though

 

I have found it nearly impossible to get your hand in the battery area and successfully connect the venting hose to the battery. And no one really talks about that on here, so I am trying to figure out why I am the only one having the issue?

 

You won’t need the vent tube as most replacement batteries are AGM or lithium Antigravity batteries these days. Forget about the vent tube. Not used or needed on modern batteries. The disconnect is the left sided quick release terminal clamp on neg terminal.

 

Yes, I have read that, but I'm anal so I attached it anyway. Just slid the battery further to the left allowed me to get my hand in there and hook it up. It's still a tight space.

Happy motoring everyone!

 

NB. There is a new model battery tender of sorts made by Cteck I am told that will maintain electronics while replacing your battery. Ck it out. I'm one of those who would take the car to my independent etc. etc.

 

My car didn't have any issues "resetting" as I changed the battery. Didn't use a charger while the old battery was out. And I replaced the nvo board and mirror switch as well while the old battery was out of the car.

I attempted to use the "reset" function listed in the manual, but my bonnet would not open. Still reset fine.

 

Reset is not really an issue so I’d rather keep power out of the system while doing a battery swap for safety and to keep from damaging electronics.
The only real need for maintaining power would be to keep from having to do a drive cycle to reset the OBD II monitors to pass a smog test. But if you’re not near needing a test, the car is likely to have reset the monitors in normal driving.


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