The dealer actually believes it may be the high-voltage battery but it sounds like he's battling with Ferrari. My first thought was also the 12V battery. We also considered the battery charger but after the last instance of it happening less than 24hrs after leaving the dealership (and not being plugged in at my house) the service manager seems to have ruled that out. The software was updated after the 3rd instance and I was told this would fix a "communication problem" between the 12V and the high-voltage battery.
Ugh, sounds like a familiar problem with a number of these cars. There have been multiple software updates. No excuse for ever leaving the factory with this defect.
After he returned the new SF90 back to the dealer and received a refund, after several returns for the car going dead, the dealer recently informed him that the issue was caused by the front hood latch that closed but did not fully "lock," so that the system remained "on" and drained the battery. FWIW
I thought I’d provide an update on my car. After being towed to the dealership 8+ times Ferrari finally decided to try replacing the high voltage battery. The car was in the shop for 5 weeks. I picked it up Thursday, drove it home, and plugged it in. I went to drive it to dinner Friday night and once again the car is giving off every error in the book. I called the dealer and told them they can either buy the car back for everything I have into it or I’m getting a lawyer and lemoning it. It will be on a tow truck tomorrow morning. I’m wondering if it could be the hood latch or something similar. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
And people wonder why I am skitterish of the 296.... and the future of all exotic hybrids. Imagine having this issue with the car out of warranty. So sorry for all the problems you're having. This is no fun.
I am so sorry to hear this. Hope all is well for you from now on with dealership. My 296 had a warning check engine light. I took it to service and they said abnormal spike detected from electric register. They regrounded battery. I had issue with bricked SF90 and it was loose wire connection and mechanical.. I hoped same with 296 but this time, it has no obvious mechanical loose connections or such so it is rather sketchy quick fix. Lets see how it goes. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
I'd probably just sell the car if I was you, ideally to the dealer you bought it from, it's not worth your time
I told the dealer they can either buy it back for MSRP+Tax+Registration or I will lemon it. They seem to be struggling with buying it back and suggested I put it on consignment. I was even asked if I "valued my relationship with Ferrari". I quickly responded that it's clear Ferrari doesn't value their relationship with me. I made it clear I would take all my current deposits back and never by another Ferrari. The service manager feels terrible and is trying to do everything he can. Apparently the next step is to fly out a Ferrari tech. I'm just done with the car and pretty close to being done with the brand.
that would probably be enough to end my relationship with ferrari, the game they play with customers has gone too far now imo. it's not like it used to be
Tough to read this thread as I’m on the pry to get an SF90 in the near future. I can share with you that comments like that are NOT a rarity. Unfortunately, the salesforce is composed by humans. And as such, there is a wide variety of behaviors and understanding on how to treat others. Many of these comments are made by individuals who do not represent the brand as it is expected of them. They make us feel as if protecting our money is a sin. There are many out there who choose not to count/watch what they spend but for the most part many of us do. I’d say, speak to the dealer manager and discuss the situation. He or she sets the tone for the group and should know what happened. In my case, the relationship was not broken given a frank conversation with the manager. My issue is with one individual and I won’t let him ruin my love for the cars. Having said that, I respect if you just send them to hell. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
I agree, I try to avoid posting on forums when I’ve had a few drinks but it’s Xmas and meh. The contrast of experience has grown quite a lot vs other manufacturers who genuinely seem to appreciate my business really discourages me from spending anymore money with Ferrari, I don’t know the objective truth though and as I’m getting older in life I find myself naturally getting bitter about things (which I remember consciously hoping I wouldn’t when I was younger!) either way the money involved remains huge, £300k+ for a car is a lot, regardless of profit margins etc
Just pull the lemon law and go forward. I had an engine failure with the new style G wagon and I got just as frustrated with the dealer and Mercedes corp. As soon as I called the lemon law unit in NJ and sent my certified letter, there were multiple calls from the dealer, mgr, dealer owner, and MBUSA within days. Before this I go the run around for 2 months but after the lemon law, car was bought back within 1 week and all monies were refunded ASAP. All manufacturers know that most people 90% will give up after all the hassle and pretty much sell the car or move on and they'll only have to deal with the remaining 10%. Stay persistent and don't get belligerent and it will work out. My brother had an brand new F12 that randomly would shut off as he's driving it in the 1st 100 miles, after 3 service attempts, he pulled the lemon law and got another F12 in 3 months. They won't do anything until you force their hand.
The quality control of Ferrari has been getting worse. It seems some sf90's have had no issues then some people have to deal with issues like this. Their build/paint quality has been going to **** as well. Some cars will show up and their paint is near perfect, others have horror stories dealing with it. Its really sad, I just got my sf90 spider and hope mine is one of the good ones mechanically, if not I don't know if I have the patience others have. Some juice just isn't worth the squeeze.
Hi , I am really curious as to where in the car(SF90) is the loose wire that you ended up having fixed and the mechanical issue as well would really appreciate if you can describe and expound on it a little in detail I have a friend who has the same bricking problem thanks in advance
Check all those orange wires. Mine had got one loose. Even placing it tight will help, which is my guess. Wiring you can see through engine bonet got loose. My car was one of the first production runs and it had some glitches. Loose connection was one of them. I had multiple warnings and software issues but I stayed and got patient about all things and just drove on. When my 2nd car was arrived, it was indeed much better car with all those updates and fixes were done. It was trouble free. Even though my 296 is one of early production runs, I am sure it is already on par with my 2nd SF90 and it has been trouble free except one warning light I discribed. My point is your friend car will be back on the road healthy if he or she can be paitient. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
if you keep charging the car every day to 100 % and leaving it like that, you will have trouble down the road with the battery....
reading this thread reinforces my opinion that i will never buy this car. i drove it and was very impressed, but these are not issues you expect to have with a brand new car costing this much. fugetaboudit
This is not correct according to my dealer, based on his email, I can keep the car connected all the time. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
ok. follow his advice. fwiw i have a hybrid car, and have found that battery maintenance is best done by frequent cycling through various phases of charge, and not keeping it constantly at 100%. but then again, i dont have a dealer who would like to swap out my battery pack for a fee
I believe you are correct, I do the same with my other cars. I will not connect then to the tender immediately after a drive but rather wait a few days and of the car sits for a while I will unplug and do it again. So far so good.
As with all things with batteries, it depends on how "smart" the charger is. Even in mobile phones the charger stop providing current, when the battery reaches 100% capacity, so as to not overcharge-overheat it.
Some topical review: https://www.kia.com/dm/discover-kia/ask/how-to-extend-ev-battery-life.html#:~:text=If%20you%20do%20not%20use,charge%20while%20you%20are%20away. 4. Control the optimal battery state of charge during long storage EVs that are parked or stored with an empty or full battery also degrades the battery. If you do not use your electric car often or having a long trip plan, get a timed charger, and plug it in. Leaving your vehicle at 100 percent while parked at a certain place for a long period, the battery will struggle with preserving its state of charge while you are away. One strategy is to set the charger to keep the charge just above the low mark, not filling it up to the maximum capacity, at an average charge level between 25 percent and 75 percent. https://www.slashgear.com/854360/why-charging-your-ev-to-100-isnt-always-a-good-thing/ Unlike gas cars, where drivers will usually top up the tanks, that is not recommended in EVs. Fully charging an EV battery can damage it and degrade it. Ideally, drivers should let the battery drop to 20% and then charge it to 80%. When an EV battery is charged to 100%, it heats up. A study published in Nature explains that temperature has a "significant impact on the performance, safety, and cycle lifetime of lithium-ion batteries." Temperatures affect the Solid Electrolyte Interphase (SEI), not to be confused with the lithium plating. SEI lets lithium ions pass through but protects the anode from corrosion. When the SEI is modified, the protective characteristics are loosened up, and normal chemical reactions are affected. Temperatures can also cause stress fractures and fissures, as Recurrent explains. Fissures and cracks can also cause unwanted chemical reactions and take up a part of the normal flow of energy, eventually degrading the battery. https://witricity.com/newsroom/blog/the-80-rule/ There are two reasons: charging performance and battery longevity. Most of the time you should only charge an EV to 80% because charging rates slow down dramatically past the 80% mark. And two, the long-term health of your vehicle’s battery pack is improved when kept below 100%. https://www.geotab.com/blog/ev-battery-health/ Avoid keeping your car sitting with a full or empty charge. Ideally, keep your SOC between 20–80% particularly when leaving it for longer periods, and only charge it fully for long distance trips.
