1980 308 GTSi cranks but will not start. So far I have: 1. Replaced the fuel pump relay & start injector relay. 2. Cleaned contacts to fuel pump. 3. Pulled blue wire from fuel distributor, turn key on & listen to fuel pump. Could hear fuel pump. 4. Pulled spark plug and checked spark. Okay 5. Replaced battery. 6. Opened air filter & pushed round metal plate down. Got swish noise after second try. When I first started cranking the car there was no smell of gas. After pushing metal plate under filter I got smell of gas when cranking car. First time in 33 years of owning car this has happened. Car is 100% stock
Strange. Fuel-spark-power. It should fire. I'm not a expert, but this would be my next thoughts: Fuel quality, check vacuum-hose to Digiplex (spark-timing), disconnect connector on the cold-start injector and try again (to rich), check the connector on the enrichment divice. Clean. Power? Throttle switch: does it click? Change relay for key related services. Clean-inspect connector from engine-harness above rear driverwheel. It holds electric leads including flywheelsensors. Disconnect auxillary air-tube from valve beneath watertank (valve must be open to start cold engine). Second: cam-timing off? Lift oil cap to check one camshaft. Good luck!
Has it been a couple of months since you drove it? Put your foot on the floor and crank it away.......it may take awhile but I bet it goes
I am going to go with Yes, its been a few years. August of 2013 post. Hope he got it running. Your advise about the foot on the floor is valid, have used it many times.
As this old thread was resurected, let's chime in... Pedal in the floor is meant to trigger the fuel pump, as it allows more airflow to pass through the metering device and hence desactivate the safety switch. If you disconnect the safety switch as the OP did, there is no need to floor the gas pedal. As to why one need to bypass the safety (either by disconnecting the switch or flooring the pedal), it's usually the result of a loss of pressure, i.e one of the following: leaky fuel accumulator , leaky distributor return check valve, porous fuel hoses (happens on car with intank pumps, such as the 412), faulty thermo-time switch. Note that, the thermo time switch is the one that allows to build up the pressure when engine is cold (has not run for 1/2 hour). From then on pressure should remain in the system for almost an hour (unless any of the previous mentioned leaks are present) . For the record this thermo time switch performs two actions while you cranck the engine: it opens the cold start valve injector, but it also bypasses the safety switch and activates the pump for up to 12 seconds.
