430 CCM replacement pads for track

Pagid RSC1. I’ve run the pagid, ss brake lines, and endless brake fluid on my scud on track and it’s an improvement over stock. However, for serious track use I would consider switching to steel brakes and more aggressive brake compound.

 

Yes very streetable as the rsc1 is a high performance street pad that can be used for intermediate level track duty. I’ve been an advanced level driver for DE events in my old track gt3 and have driven the scud in the intermediate group with no braking issues with the rsc1.

No squeal and bite is fine when cold. However, I’m in California so cold for me is about 50 deg

I bought from competition Motorsport.

 

Will be interesting to see feedback from others as I am not the expert.

I saw many references on these concerns from past threads, but seems the studs are softer and just wear down. I proactively replaced the pads on my Scud and in looking at the pads and lack of grooves in my rotor seem to support that.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I would buy both front and rear. The brake bias will be impacted by having the more aggressive pad up front and stock pad in the rear. With that said, you may not notice the difference in bias if you are not approaching the limits of braking.

the issue with stock pads on ceramic is the stock pads become very hot when the car is driven aggressively on track. The excess heat can damage the disks from my understanding.

As for the studs on the pagid pads, a lot of gt3 guys who run ceramics use the pagid and I have not seen anyone complain about the brass studs damaging the discos. It’s always a Good idea to change the pads before the pads get close to the backing plate anyway.

 

The studs don't affect the disc surface. I've run a spare pair of old pads for certain drives and the studs just wear away.

 

YMMV...

... I saw early CS which had damaged CCMs. Maybe they sent out batches of older pads designed for Steels on earlier cars (I wouldn't put it passed them to get it wrong) and that car needed new front discs as it had left severe scoring on the disc surface. I think I even took a picture at the time but it was many years ago now.

With this is mind I wouldn't personally want to take the risk when pads are relatively inexpensive and discs not.





Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

 

With all Brakes but especially Carbons make sure your last lap on track is a proper cool down lap, very little use of brakes. If you have to do a loop around the paddock.

I had a CS and always did a last lap cool down and a long loop around paddock before parking the car.

Never had issues with brakes.

5 months of DEs with Porsche Club in the Instructor group. Each month was 2 days of track.

 

Similar to yours mine were not worn that much, but I always felt like braking wasn't what I expected. Taking into consideration that I drive on the street and the brakes needs some heat. Occurred to me that I have never owned a vehicle that had the original brakes 15 years later. Was it this or did one of the previous owners use some kind of wheel cleaner. You just don't know and it's such a minimal investment, so I just bought some new brake pads (again street use) .

I know car forums are littered with "..oh my god it was night and day difference..", but after bedding I was shocked at how different it felt. I don't know why and if it's all in my head that maybe still worth the $600 I paid for the front pads.

The old pads compared to new.
Image Unavailable, Please Login


The surface of the old pad

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Ah, Sorry about that most folks that track Ferrari's tracked other Cars first like BMW and Porsches' and those Clubs have events called Drivers Education (DE).

Those events are Instructor led events on a race track but following strict rules such as NO PASSING without the Car being Passed first giving you a Signal to Pass and absolutely no passing in the Corners. Safety first, Education 2nd, Fun is the bonus.

This also used to allow us to not get in trouble with our Insurance companies since we also don't allow any timing devices on track.

Unfortunately for the last several years now Insurance Companies will not insure you on the Road if they are made aware that you may take your car on a race track regardless of above restrictions.

So to be clear, we did not expect to be insured on the track but we did not expect to be denied insurance on the road just because we took our cars on a race track.

Because of the above, sadly my last full season on the racetrack was 2017.

I had an amazing amount of fun though from 2001 until 2017 And now I stick to back roads in remote areas of the city/towns that I know very well drive spiritedly ;-)

Oh this is for Canada by the way....

 

In the Porsche Club the Levels are:
Green (Instructor in the Car with Student), White (Graduated from Green ie no Instructor) this group is MOST Dangerous, lots to prove as you state, Blue (Advanced but not enough to be an Instructor), Black Advanced enough to be an Instructor but you may not be able to instruct and drive well at same time), Red (Instructor Level).

So similar to your experience the White (Intermediate) group is the most risky. But at the Region I belonged to (Rennsport PCA) we have NEVER had Car to Car Contact. We are that strict, we will Black Flag Aggressive behavior and if you get 3 Black flags during an event your are grounded from the remaining driving sessions for that event with no refund.

Hmm, we have Hagerty insurance in Canada, I may look into that, not to be covered on the track but just to be covered on the road legally.

When you put an Insurance Policy on a Car since about 2015 if its a Porsche or a Ferrari one of the first questions they ask is "will you take your car on a Race Track?" Doesn't matter for what reason, even Parade Laps for Charity, if you say YES, they say NO we will not allow you to add that Car to your Insurance Policy.

Just for background doesn't matter your Drivers History, I have been driving since 1979, never had an accident, no speeding fines etc. but that doesn't matter to the Insurance Company. Its very-very frustrating.

 

Were these from the factory CCB's?

My F430 is new to me at 27k miles and I've never driven a car with CCB's before. However, it doesn't quite have the "bite" I was expecting. Oddly enough, it seems to get worse with more braking. The previous owner seems to have babied it so not sure if they were ever bedded in properly. Maybe this is what I'm missing?

 

This information is from 2014 but these are the Pads I switched to at @Michael B recommendation for Track Duty and they performed very well and did not harm the Carbon Rotors.

cavlino said:
Hi Michael B, I am about to order some replacement pads for my Challenge Stradale that has original carbon rotors. I will be doing about 8 DE track days this year (4 20 minute sessions per DE track day). I see you have recommended:

Front Pad - RS29 Pagid Product Code - E8083
Rear Pad - RS29 Pagid Product Code - E2487

 

Yup, I had a dedicated 1995 Porsche 993 Track Car for several years, I am very familiar with Brake service and I did own and use that exact device for bleeding the Brakes and the Clutch

 

Motive power bleeder and a 6 piston brake spreader tool make brake jobs much easier.