How to replace your convertible top

Since there didn't seem to be a how-to guide and I needed to replace my own top, I figured I'd document the process to help out the next person.

To be fair, this isn't my first top. I've done probably 100 or so over the years. This was one of the most complicated though although mostly because you need to reach inwards a lot and the car is so wide.

Quick background on the issues at hand....

The mechanism for the convertible top is both a miracle of design while at the same time being very similar to a conventional convertible top. Mostly similar in that it requires elastic straps placed in strategic places to pull back frame bows or other parts in order to operate properly. Once those elastics perish, the chance of your top folding incorrectly is very high, which leads to pinching of the fabric, holes or ,worst case scenario, a bent frame member.

My car currently has about 28k miles on it and while the fabric is in decent shape, a broken cable (likely stemming from perished elastics and incorrect folding) led to an incorrect install by Ferrari of a new cable along with holes in the top and bent mechanism parts. Pictured is just one of them. These are thick steel though so it gives you an idea of how much force is involved.

I started my journey by shopping the factory top. I quickly abandoned that after I saw a price of $10,000USD. Besides a bit of Ferrari tax on that, it's mostly that expensive because the top includes the entire rear portion of the frame to which it is pre-mounted. This saves a TON of time during install and changes it from something that takes skill and patience to something a mechanic can do easily.

However, aftermarket tops do not include the frame and do require skill and patience...but also a lot less money with typical tops selling for around $2500-3000.

I chose to use a company in Germany called CK Cabrio: https://www.ck-cabrio.com/shop-convertible-tops/ferrari-f430-spider-2005-2009/

I have no affiliation with them, they just seemed to have some improvements in their design over the factory top (or at least that's what they claimed). Time will tell if these improvements work as I use my top frequently. I was also able to spec a tinted rear window so it matches my tinted side windows better than clear. I also purchased a new headliner from them. Although they state they match the factory fuzzy material, it was different but much better in my opinion if that matters to anybody. I've also used GAHH in the past with good results on other vehicles.

I took this project on with the help of the factory service manual (section N). Although it was some help, the process is very scattered and does not include certain steps as new tops come complete with a lot of parts installed. You can reference it for help, but this guide will be more complete. That said, because the service manual skips around, some of my pictures are not in the exact order of operations. I tried to word the document though so that it reads in the best order to keep things simple.

Also, a brief apology that the last operation of adhering the top to the rear frame is very picture sparse. It was a battle of time for me and I had to constantly use two hands on my own so I lacked the ability to take great pictures.

Overall, it wasn't a terrible experience. I feel like most will be able to tackle this with little issue. The rear fins are the hardest. I had to unstick them and re-stick them three times before I was happy with how they laid down with the last time being after I had already installed the rear rubber and closed the top mechanically for the first time. As long as you're patient and have a good eye for detail, it should be manageable. The end result is pretty good although I ended up with two small "divots" at the top corners. I've reached out to the manufacturer to see if they have any feedback on them as it doesn't seem I can adjust the top to eliminate them. There is also some leftover evidence of some wrinkling I had on the right fin but those should relax over time. I'd give myself an 8/10 for end result. Since it was my first time on this, there is room for improvement and things I could have done cleaner knowing what I know now. However, this is 10/10 better than what I removed.

Let me know if you have any questions. Of course, I'm happy to provide help or guidance to anybody else that wants to tackle this task.

Here's a download link for the full guide: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B-9zX27gDt3WOkeLD3l1bMMMpMx2Fvof/view?usp=drivesdk

 

the rear window is actually designed to be replaced separately. There’s a zipper that goes all around it. The problem is that there is a seal that needs to be melted with heat. Ferrari designed a wire in the assembly that gets connected to a special tool which charges it, heating it up around the perimeter. It then has to go through the same process to rebond it. I’ll look at my old top and see if there’s a chance to shortcut the heated wire stage, maybe with a heat gun.

however, like John mentioned, plast-x does wonders. Especially if you have a small buffer to apply it with.

 

Maybe a mod can link it in to the how-to section?

In the picture, the hooked part is the round rod with the ball end that swivels and attaches to the B pillar seal. It pivots on the seal as it pushes it forward and pulls it back. It's directly attached to the part behind it that has to fit perfectly between two flat metal plates when it folds back. If one part is bent, the top binds and bends the other parts trying to force it. At first I thought only the rear bar was bent (the one in the picture on the first post), but the rod with the ball joint was the worst one and kept bending the other parts as it cycled. Using the other side to compare, I had to bend it back almost 3/4" so that everything cycled straight. It's kind of hard to describe without seeing it move. New, the parts are several hundred dollars each.

 

Thanks. A mod added it to the DIY section. Not sure if there's a better way of hosting the document other than my google drive.

 

Just wanted to add an update to this thread. It was finally a warm enough evening so I could lower the top for the first time on my way home. So, it was the first time that I had cycled the top under power. I chose to leave it in the up position as long as possible to let the canvas stretch into place.

A few things I noticed. The top stopped operation halfway even though I could hear the pump going. I let off the button and pressed it again and it continued. I'm thinking that after moving it around manually so much, I probably built up some air in the line that needs to be purged by cycling the top a few times.

Also, I didn't follow my own advice and just observed the top from inside the car as it was lowering. The driver's side front seal did not get tucked into the split of the rear fin and instead pushed on the side of it. I realized this once I raised my top again after arriving home and discovered a "dent" in the top material where the front corner was pushing it (it will flatten out with some time). I also noticed the front corner rubber had been bent outwards slightly and did not align with the front seal from being smashed into the top material. It's odd because that's how my car came and I always wondered why that was so. I straightened it out during the top install, but now I know exactly how it happened.

Instead of leaving it up this time, I lowered it slowly in stages watching how everything folded down. As it folded, I pulled and tucked the folds cleanly to how they should be without bunching. I also made sure the fin split opened up properly and the front corners were nestled inside of them. Once it was all folded and tucked I completed the close procedure. I plan to leave it with the top down for a while to sort of "iron" the folds in place so the top is more inclined to fold this way every time.