Weird Happening

I am in the process of changing my timing belt for probably the sixth time having owned my '87 328 GTS for over 35 years. I had completed the rear belt and put the cover back on and fixed the rear fiber cover to the front cover including the nasty little bolt that is hard to reach near the WUR. Fine and dandy.

Getting started on the front belt, I noticed that the shaft of the York compressor was leaking. I had replaced its seal probably 10 years or so ago. Before removing the compressor, I opened the low-pressure hose at the compressor and bled out what little refrigerant that remained. I then opened the high-pressure side and did the same. Some oil came out, but I caught it with a rag. To remove the compressor from the top it had to be turned to clear obstacles. As I tilted it, oil began spewing out of the high-pressure side as though it was driven by pressure. I placed a rag over it and caught most of it. The spewing stopped. I began maneuvering the compressor to further its removal. The spewing of oil began again, this time squirting on the rear timing belt where it protrudes from its cover near the drive cog. Now I have to order another belt.

Is there any explanation for the oil spewing after having removed the AC lines to relieve pressure? I have had the compressor off before to replace the shaft seal and did not experience anything like this.

 

I removed it from the top because the compressor would not fit between the gas tank and the engine drive pulleys. I suppose I could have removed the harmonic balancer as I did years ago when I replaced the main seal on the crank. When I replaced the seal on the compressor years ago, I filled the oil level to where York recommended as shown in your post. I looked it up. It's out now so I'll tilt it and recheck.

Overfilling would not account for the spewing of oil. Seems to me it would only pour out. In my first post I failed to mention that the spewing of oil out the high-pressure side was always preceded by a gurgling sound from inside the compressor.

 

I checked the oil level in the crankcase. It is well below the fill point. I also removed the clutch and electromagnet. Together, they weigh 7 pounds, 2 ounces. The stamping on the magnet mount says it draws 55 watts. Some time ago I measured the amperage draw on the clutch and noted it was drawing about 4.5 amperes which agrees with the stamping.

I have not decided whether to install a new seal in this compressor or go the Sanden route.

 

I installed a new compressor seal and vacuum has been held for several days. However, I realize that there is only a 14.7 psi pressure difference for the vacuum test. When it operates, the pressure differential is many times greater. The last seal I installed lasted for two timing belt changes which is about 10+ years. The timing belts are renewed, and a new thermostat was installed. For some reason when I had the vehicle professionally serviced back in the 90's, the factory 80 C (176 F) thermostat was changed to a 70 C (158 F) thermostat. I put the 70 C thermostat in hot water, and it began opening at 155 F which is in agreement with my vehicle's temperature gauge. I ended up getting the Wahler 80 C thermostat. The same hot water test indicated the new thermostat worked correctly. I opted for the Wahler thermostat based on cost. One parts outlet wanted 258 bucks for the thermostat. Another wanted over 160 bucks. I guess they are made out of gold. NAPA sells the Wahler for less than 17 bucks. I drove the vehicle a little while ago. The thermostat worked properly.

I will get around to charging the system when the weather warms.

 

Really like the thermostat with the correct temperature opening and maintaining range. This morning it was 32 F where I live so I took the car out for a ride to see if the oil temperature would get higher than it used to at low ambient temperatures. Heretofore, I would have to stuff an old hat in the NACA duct in order to get the oil temperature up to 170 F in cold weather. This morning the oil temperature was running at 170 to 180 F, hatless.

 

Every rose must have thorns. The proper operating temperature of the engine has increased the working pressure in the cooling system. A leak has developed beneath the intake. I assumed it was one of the large 41 mm rubber hose sections but instead it is a small line that goes from the reservoir to under the intake. I can see it dripping at the clamp end under the plenum when the engine gets up to temperature. The clamp tightener faces the rear window of the car so I might be able to tighten it without major surgery. I am not looking forward to plenum removal but will do so if necessary. When the engine cools I'll see if I can get at it. The end of the line where it clamps has dried residue, so it looks like it has been weeping slightly for quite a while. Now with the higher pressure in the system, it is doing more than weeping.

 

Steve, thanks for the helpful information. I am going to take a close look at it today. Before I discovered this leak, I was able to stop another leak at one of the large rubber sections in the valley. One clamp had loosened. I tightened it stopping that leak and thought the issue was solved. Now I'll be faced with the question, if the problem is not simply another loose clamp, whether I should do the 'while you're in there thing'.

 

I was able to get a 6mm socket on the clamp and tightened it a little over 1 turn without much effort. Will start it later when the rain stops. My guess is that the nipple is corroded, and I'll have to replace it. In searching under 106241 as suggested, I noticed that auto parts stores sell a brass screw in nipple. If I were not retired, I could ask colleagues who were metallurgists about whether brass would be better than SS when in contact with aluminum. But I retired almost 19 years ago and so have they by now.

 

Yelcab, are we talking about the same hose? I do not see how one could remove/replace this hose without removing the plenum. It attaches to a nipple (106241) well under the plenum out of reach of fingers.

 

My leak is at fitting 26 which is not accessible without removing the plenum. I was able to access the clamp and tightened it using a 6mm socket on an extension. The Ferrari factory was thoughtful in that they oriented the clamp so that it could be tightened from the front. Whether clamp tightening stops the leak, I cannot say without starting the car. I doubt that I shall be that lucky, so I've been reading up on plenum removal. It looks like a lot of labor for me with much care regarding the spacers. I have always changed the coolant every 2-3 years.

 

I've been looking at the situation some more. I might be able to get my hand in there to remove the hose if I remove the oil filter. I'll run the car tomorrow when the rain stops and see if it still leaks and go from there. One of the large (41mm) short sections on the timing belt side was leaking but stopped when I tightened a loose clamp. If I have to go in there, I'll replace all the hoses.

By the way, I do all the labor/servicing myself. I have a couple of small blocks and tackles so removing the lid is easy for me having done it several times. Once back in the 90's, the vehicle was serviced professionally but I was not pleased with the results. So I do all the work now. Other than changing oil, filters, adjusting valves, timing belts, and coolant, if it is not broken, I do not fix it.

I thank you for the advice. FerrariChat is invaluable.

 

I removed the engine cover and oil filter and was able to get my hand under the plenum. Loosened up the clamp on the line that goes from reservoir (item 49 in yelcab's post) to the nipple on the manifold. Attached are two pictures showing the end that leaked at the nipple and the end where I cut it off from the reservoir. The end at the reservoir was cut because it was requiring too much force to loosen. I have to wonder why the line is so thick in view of the fact that the coolant system relieves itself at 13 psig. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Here is a picture of the nipple. It is shot through a mirror and seems to show there is quite a bit of meat left on the nipple. Maybe I do not have to remove the plenum and replace the nipple.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

The hose is original equipment so it's over 35 years old. Cleaning it up and installing a new hose is my plan as well.

 

I'm finding nipple 18 just below and to the left of the rear distributor looking from the driver's side. That line on my vehicle is not swollen to the extent that the smaller line was swollen. I make this judgment by looking at how much the clamp is pinching the line. I cannot see the other end of the line at the moment. I'll deal with the small one for now and look more closely at this later when I can get the car back on my lift. It must be off the lift for me to use my block and tackles to remove the engine lid. Thanks for the assistance.