430 New Master Cylinder Creaking Noise (Converted Manual)

Beasters, I been talking to DR.S. Were gonna try to help you out here. So call me. You have my number

 

after 3 months of immersed in ATF, I can vouch for the brown material is suitable for ATF, which I don't know how that thing is called in English.

All top three seals starts at 17mm outer diameter. The bottom seal was never immersed into ATF, as a reference.

that black thing is what originally fitted to the dot3/4 based clutch master cylinder, and it swells by a lot
that blue thing swell by about 1.5mm, which is not accepable. I think the material is called polyXXXX something
that brown thing swell by abslutely 0mm, which is great

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now my problem is that, the brown thing is too tight to be fitted to the piston, I broke a few already
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forgot something ,there's another material called NBR I tested, it swells by about 1mm and is not good.

the NBR is black colored.

 

Tian you are awesome! Copper nitrate? Interesting..

 

wow your problem solving skills are truly impressive! This weekend I tried to take apart and fix my Dyson (failed). Couldn’t imagine doing the degree of diy u have done on your fcar!

 

something like fluo---- something , or related to it. It contains fluorine for sure.

 

I was able to locate a piston that has a bigger inner circle diamter, which makes the seal easier to slip into it.
the final size of the seal is 11mm inner diameter x 16mm outer diamter, height= 6mm (doens't really matter that much i believe)
however, upon installing it into the cylinder, it doens't work, it is too tight.


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I deal with chemical compatibility issues regularly at work; the global go-to guide for chemical compatibility is the Du Pont chemical resistance guide:

https://www.dupont.com/knowledge/elastomer-chemical-resistance-guide.html

Doing your own tests is fine, but honestly, it’s all been done before.

The brown seals used by Ferrari for f1 fluid are viton. (There are many grades of viton, but I assume this is just plain old Viton A). The black ones, as used by every car company for brake hoses etc. are EPDM (ethylene propylene diene terpolymer), often referred to as synthetic rubber.

Brake fluid is glycol based, which is chemically very different to hydraulic oil, which is based on mineral oils.


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ah ha! I read this chart before I did my test.
The reason I wanted to do this test is the mess of naming of all these chemicals.
For english speakers as a second language, such as me, those prefix and suffixes of chemicals or biologicals are like ancient spell book.
So after some struggle and fearing of getting something wrong, I quit reading, I just go and test them myselves.

 

how do you like my master cylinder from a farm truck cylinder and another farm truck's master cylinder's internal(pictured in last post), especially the shape of the reservior that narrowly avoids the electrical motor assembly.
seems like I've hijacked this thread. haven't i?

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Happy to hear. Enjoy that beautiful car

 

Aside from being "easier" is there any mechanical/technical advantage to going with the easier kit? I'm at the point where I need to choose between the two and I want to keep it as "factory" as possible but if there's absolutely zero benefit or more complications in the end, there's no point in the added labor.