Hi Kevin, I'm in the same boat, any pointers I could ask you to share? Thank you, appreciate it. John
A YouTube video suggested that there was a problem with cable manufacture. I don't know if this was long ago or something recent. (around 2:19)
As I recall, it was simply a matter of disconnecting the cables at the actuator and adjusting their length. It worked well with 2 of us, because we could easily figure out whether to shorten or lengthen the cable to provide appropriate centering while one of us sat in the car. Kevin
I found my EAG clacked more with their shift gate pattern. I get some but much less with the OEM shift gate. I cannot check the shifter alignment at the moment but never any metal flakes or shavings I don't even see how that could be possible. I have the EAG gate on my desk here
Makes sense. Seems that you can also alter where you have the final placement with the screws as I took a ton of time centering the OEM. I will probably mess with the shift cables at some point but the car drives great.
Perhaps I recall incorrectly but thought there was still play. Car is up in the air so cannot hop in to check.
The shifter gate is absolutely not adjustable. Once it is screwed in to the OEM tower, The tapered holes puts it right in place where it should be. If someone's shifter gate is moving around To where they have to adjust it then it's not a oem tower. Every single part of the shift tower needs to be in spec or there will be issues one way or another.. Evidently we are seeing that.
I thought the OEM clanks less. Seems imahorse is correct that the EAG slots are tighter. My guess was I bolted it down different.
Trev, how can we obtain your tuning services in the states? I'm about to do a DrS conversion and would like to have one of your tunes if possible. Thanks
Can you do me a favor...and check your shifter stick, see if yours has dents or looks scratched off, maybe chewed a little? Remove the selector gate plate and the black shim....check if you see tiny metal flakes inside. If you look at this picture..all the white specs are tiny pieces of metal. All that metal is off the stick shifter rubbing on the side of selector gate, you can see how chewed up and missing metal on the side of my EAG sticker shifter is(red arrow) this is where the shift hits the selector gate when shifting.......Im just saying that how off mine was. Even if it was centered, it hits the gate all the time when shifting (you can see the indented cut circle/ring on my shifter), the metal used is obviously softer than it should be, also imagine if this same metal is also used for the actuator internals thats inside the transmission and tiny pieces shaving off too....thats a hell no for me. My factory 360 shifter with 20k miles....it had wear marks but it wasnt missing metal. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This would mean that the thickness of the stick shift is thinner than OEM? I honestly never checked the thickness of it. Or EAG just made the Gate with narrower slots. There is definitely a gap when its in the slot with the OEM gate.
I'm not sure what the difference in the shift rod widths are. OEM is 8mm wide. What does yours measure?
Dr. S is coming out with something that will revolutionize this conversion in terms of programming. I am finishing up a conversion and testing the F430, impressive so far. In two weeks there would be good news for everyone interested. Plug and play
I recently spoke with EAG on this subject and it revealed something very interesting things. I hope this helps customers of theirs... 1. They have (unsurprisingly) substantially evolved and continuously refined / upgraded their products and designs [exactly the same way Ferrari does, meaning a later spec car has all the improvements and learnings vs an earlier car). This also applies to the software too, I'm on Gen 8 of my software now so its absolutely worth getting this checked out too. 2. The generation shown in the pictures is one of the earlier conversions (done a long time ago) and happens to be Gen 1 (I think) whereas they are currently on Gen 4. This means largely the points raised in this thread only effect a small number of earlier generation cars. 3. There are upgrades available at a discounted rate to existing customers who have the earlier gen 1. cars if they are experiencing any issues. Get in touch with them to work out what this means for your specific case. I've also seen their latest gated shift box and it looks much improved (aesthetically) and is also lighter and still benefits from being CNC'd vs using casting. Billet CNC'ing costs more but results in less stress points. I'll see if I can get some pictures and post it up. That's not to take anything away from the Dr.S stuff which I think is also a very interesting alternative, as competition in this space just forces EVERYONE to up their game which ultimately leads to better quality conversions for everyone. For all the Dr.S customers who've DM'd me about fixing their firming (360 and F430) I will be in touch individually as time permits. Regards, Trev
Just make sure it can BACKUP fully your original ecu before doing any upgrades over obd or there will be tears... I'm sure this still don't have ; 1. Heel and toe support 2. Instant torque (years in development) 3. Variable ratio rev decay calibration (for perfect shifting) 4. Full backup and restore of your old data 5. Upgrading old early gen firmware to latest vastly improved versions (automatically and intelligently fixed to work on any model year). This improves engine so much already. 6. Multiple years worth of R&D with hundreds of man hours worth of dyno and testing (even driven and cold/hot/altitude tested by Ex-Ferrari engineers) calibration improvements 7. Multiple driving modes with distinct separate calibrations 8. Update to CS+ spec or Scud+ and much much more.. IMHO there really is no substitute...
So you can upgrade a 2005ish F430 with the latest or better software then what a stock 2009 F430 came with. I would really like your answer to be YES.
