355 - Unobtainium Manual Conversion Parts | Page 2 | FerrariChat

355 Unobtainium Manual Conversion Parts

Discussion in '348/355' started by JRD-DE, Jan 2, 2023.

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  1. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
    1,219
    Los Angeles
    You just need to angle the pedal arm coming off the shaft. It runs basically exactly parallel with the brake pedal. Check out this reference pic (not my car).

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  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Feb 20, 2015
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    Looks like the pedal spacing is very similar on LHD and RHD cars. The clutch pedal width is slightly larger than the gap between the brake and clutch (i.e. by 2~3 grooves on the pedals)
     
  3. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
    1,219
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    I have a factory LHD clutch pedal stashed away -- JRD I will get it out and take some detailed pics and post here. Probably tomorrow, if not then next week (too much work travel).
     
  4. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Strange.... I'm wondering if my pedals are mounted correctly. Note the mounting screws on these clutch pedals (mine and in Targatime's photo).

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    My clutch and brake pedals seems to be mounted lower (relative to the carpet). Is this a RHD drive thing or was the P.O. messing around with the pedals. The alignment of the tops of the pedals seems to be similar.

    @MAD828 ???
     
  5. 308 GTB

    308 GTB F1 World Champ
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    #30 308 GTB, Mar 28, 2023
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2023
    That's the Hill Engineering Slick Shift Gate. Good choice!

    They weren't around in 1994 when my F355 Challenge was being assembled. The gate was dremelled for he same effect...


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    With a R-1-2 lockout...


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  6. JRD-DE

    JRD-DE Rookie

    Jul 24, 2020
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    Stuttgart
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    Joseph Dawber
    Maybe previous owner of Qavion's car had tiny feet!

    Thanks for the help all. Really great info in this thread for me.

    @Targatime What year is your pedal, I understand from searching that the early ones are different to the 98's like mine, so don't waste too much time on me. Looks like mine is already pretty close, just needs to be angled slightly as you say. I'll mod it and try and print another today.
     
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  7. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
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  8. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Is that small lug for a spring mount?
     
  9. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
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    Yup for the return spring. The contraption next to it is the adjustable pedal travel stop. And next to that is the arm for the clutch MC.
     
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  10. JRD-DE

    JRD-DE Rookie

    Jul 24, 2020
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    Joseph Dawber
    Thanks for that.

    I did wonder how the pedal stop system worked.

    There is one threaded hole on the housing I saw. The other bolt must mount here on the pedal I suppose.

    Factory welding skills look similar to mine, at least it will look authentic
     
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  11. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
    1,219
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    A couple more pics....the pedal stop setup uses one stud on the clutch pedal assembly and one that threads into the pedal box to limit the fore/aft travel of the pedal. Each stud has a rubber cap. Also note that the MC arm is at a slightly different angle than the clutch pedal arm (second pic captures this but it's a screengrab from a video -- not my car).

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  12. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Is your spirit level at right angles to the pivot axis in photo #2? I'm getting about 9.46 degrees from your photo. I guess close enough to 9.5 deg.
     
  13. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
    1,219
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    That's about right. The good news is this angle doesn't have to be dead nuts. The clutch MC rod is adjustable in depth and the pedal stops are adjustable. You could actually be pretty far off and it would all still work fine. I welded it at about 10 degrees and it's perfect.

    The way I fabbed my pedal was by using a 348/early 355 donor pedal. Removed the clutch arm, pedal stop assembly, and MC arm, and reassembled them onto the late 355 pivot rod at the correct measurements and angles.
     
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  14. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
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    #39 Targatime, Mar 30, 2023
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2023
    This was my donor 348 clutch pedal. The pedal stop and MC arm are identical to the Bosch 355 setup, just placed differently on the pivot. Cut them off and weld them onto your F1 pivot in the right places (MC arm has to be farthest outboard) and you're good to go. I welded everything on before cutting the pivot tube in half to allow separate clutch/brake action.

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  15. JRD-DE

    JRD-DE Rookie

    Jul 24, 2020
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    Joseph Dawber
    I do have those rubber/metal bumpers amongst the parts i ordered, so will have to throw something together to utilise them.

    Latest design tweak seems about right on the pedal. I've been confident enough to order a few sets of laser cut parts which should show up next week.

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    The weight of the aluminium plate is enough to twist that 3D printed part slightly. I'm not tempted to keep the orange.....
     
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  16. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    I just checked 3 photos of other RHD car pedals and all have the screws mounted the same as mine. Must be a RHD thing. Maybe all the extra bends in the pedal arms in the RHD cars means the arm is shorter.

    Sorry for the topic creep.
     
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  18. JRD-DE

    JRD-DE Rookie

    Jul 24, 2020
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  19. MAD828

    MAD828 F1 Rookie
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    Your pedal is mounted correct.
     
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  20. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Thanks, Elliott !
     
  21. JRD-DE

    JRD-DE Rookie

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  22. phrogs

    phrogs F1 Veteran
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  23. JRD-DE

    JRD-DE Rookie

    Jul 24, 2020
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    Joseph Dawber
    Can I ask, how people managed the clutch tubing.

    On master cylinder side it's a standard brake nipple connector, M12x1 thread. I had planned to go from there with tubing under the car and connect into the connection block where the F1's actuator clutch connector runs.

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    This banjo connector thing unfortunately seems to be an M12x1.5 thread, so my brake nipples don't fit.

    So I need another plan! Any ideas?
     
  24. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
    1,219
    Los Angeles
    I would get rid of that whole assembly and replicate the stock setup. It's just a clutch fluid hard line that comes off the top of the gearbox and runs up the lower left part of the subframe and connects in the wheel well alongside the brake line fitting. If you remove your LR wheel well liner, you'll see the junction block for the brake line there. On the F1 car it's for a single line but Hill Engineering makes a dual block that fits both the brake and clutch lines. I was able to find the clutch line used but it would be incredibly simple to fabricate, it's just a standard hard line with a few bends you could make by hand. It's the line with the orange heat shielding in the pic.


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  25. JRD-DE

    JRD-DE Rookie

    Jul 24, 2020
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    Joseph Dawber
    Yeah, that looks much neater. I'll get on with trying to source those parts.

    In the meantime managed to find a little banjo fitting so I can test that everything is working as it should. Its such an effort to get that pedal box in and out I want to check clutch disengagement etc before I fully bolt it in place, check my pedal geometry is close enough.

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