Not exactly. A wooden buck is the wooden "lattice" you've seen. It is not used to hammer directly over. It is used as a gauge to place your panels over for reference as you are shaping them. Shaping is done thru a variety of old techniques but IMO the best and fastest way to is to use a power hammer. If you have a car to take a pattern off of with paper you can get a very accurate shape and know exactly where to shrink or stretch. You can also use the buck sections as seen below:
I don’t want to kidnap this post... but it seemed to come to an abrupt end. I have a body in progress as of today. Search 1963 250 GTO and you’ll find it or should
Sorry, I’m afraid it took much too long to give away. I stopped counting after I got 100 hours in. I might sell the files as a download someday but not until I’m done making custom bucks and furniture with it.
Hi guys just to show you my body work, still in progress but step by step i move forward to the moment of taking moulds from the shape Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thank you! It has taken me 4–5 months so far, working 2–3 hours after work each day. I’m hoping to have it ready for paint by the end of the year. Once I take the moulds from the form, I plan to make a full-scale (1:1) mock-up which I’ll probably sell. I even have all the interior files as well so no problem at all
Yes It’s printed in pieces from PLA, so I didn’t need an expensive large-format printer. Now I’m going to reinforce it with resin, put body filler over the whole sell and paint it. Before that I need to check all the diagonals and dimensions, so I’ll build something like a wooden frame/jig. I want everything to be as accurate and perfect as possible, most of the parts such as fog lights, indicators, tail lights, etc. I already have purchased as original parts and everything fits perfectly. What’s left are the rubber window seals.
Nice! I work the same way but on smaller scales now. I'm sure you know this already but it's always worth mentioning, I'd recommend using epoxies for your top coats. Be careful of any exothermic reaction with the PLA to avoid warping. I've use polyesters and vinylesters but I feel safer with the low heat from epoxies when done in small volumes.
Yes, I completely agree, that’s true. PLA is not a heat-resistant material. The good thing is that it’s easy to print and I’ve arranged a good price for it, considering the large quantities I need. Otherwise, there are different ways to prevent the material from deforming.